Lithium LifePo4 12v Batteries - Time For An Upgrade?

Just to follow up I did get a reply from Fogstar about the odd direct from alternator charge recommendation.

Apparently this is only for traditional non-smart alternators
 
Me again apologies if I am being thick here but I've read many instructions and am still unclear
So I'm fitting my new Lithium battery, I am putting a red cable trigger cable to the fusebox yeah?
So do I need to earth the black cable or is that just for AGM batteries?
Thanks in advance ☺️
 
Me again apologies if I am being thick here but I've read many instructions and am still unclear
So I'm fitting my new Lithium battery, I am putting a red cable trigger cable to the fusebox yeah?
So do I need to earth the black cable or is that just for AGM batteries?
Thanks in advance ☺️
Battery select cable (black) on the CTEK D250SE goes to +12V for Lithium-ion ( 0V for AGM)
Do you have a copy of the manual?
 
Also I've just watched the following video here on the forum and he seems to suggest connecting the black cable only if you have an AGM ?
Confused dot com lol

20230806_130935.jpg
 
This is exactly what I said! Black to +12V for Lithium-ION.

View attachment 208578


(The video is for CTEK D250SA which has no Lithium profile)
You did thanks I think I am looking at too many things so my next question is can I use either of the power sources on my Ctek to connect the black cable circled in pic attached? or do I need to connect to the leisure battery itself?
Thanks so much for all your help

20230806_175327.jpg
 
You did thanks I think I am looking at too many things so my next question is can I use either of the power sources on my Ctek to connect the black cable circled in pic attached? or do I need to connect to the leisure battery itself?
Thanks so much for all your help

View attachment 208663
The black cable is acting as a selector switch so you need to connect it to something permanently live. So that's not the service/leisure battery as that may go very flat, you need to find a source from the van side. If you are taking the feed to the terminal marker "input alternator" directly from the van battery than you could use that, but be very careful not to compromise the integrity of the high current connection. It might be easier/safer to take a permanent live from elsewhere in the van electrics.

If you are not sure this is an area it's worth finding an auto electrician, a lithium battery when shorted can supply an unbelievable amount of current, not something you want happening under the seat you are sitting on or the bottom of your cupboard.
 
The black cable is acting as a selector switch so you need to connect it to something permanently live. So that's not the service/leisure battery as that may go very flat, you need to find a source from the van side. If you are taking the feed to the terminal marker "input alternator" directly from the van battery than you could use that, but be very careful not to compromise the integrity of the high current connection. It might be easier/safer to take a permanent live from elsewhere in the van electrics.

If you are not sure this is an area it's worth finding an auto electrician, a lithium battery when shorted can supply an unbelievable amount of current, not something you want happening under the seat you are sitting on or the bottom of your cupboard.
Thanks for your reply
So is there even a live feed at the rear?? Or have I got to get it through to the front like the red cable.
what size/amp black cable would I need.
Sorry for so many questions but I would really like to understand all this but it needs spelling out in idiot guide for me
Thanks again!
 
New leisure battery install here.

I've ordered a renogy lifepo 50ah (will likely add a second in future), a renogy DCC50S charger with MPPT (will add a solar panel soon), and the BT module.

Should I also get the renogy battery monitor? Or another brand? Or will the BT app do all the same stuff albeit without the fixed screen?
 
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New leisure battery install here.

I've ordered a renogy lifepo 50ah (will likely add a second in future), a renogy DCC50S charger with MPPT (will add a solar panel soon), and the BT module.

Should I also get the renogy battery monitor and shunt? Or another brand as that one doesn't seem to be mentioned on here? Or will the BT module linked to the DC50S + app do all the same stuff albeit without the fixed screen?

Whilst the battery itself has a BMS (so in theory a shunt wouldn't be necessary), it doesn't have built in bluetooth so I'm not clear how it can communicate it's charge status etc to the DCC50S and onto the BT module and app.
You can daisy chain the components to get them to work with the Bluetooth module.
I have dcc50s -> 100aH battery 1 -> 100aH battery 2 -> bt-2
From the app I can see dcc50s and both batteries.
 
Thanks paddy, that's reassuring.

Crazy they don't tell you that anywhere in the manuals or website. It shows you can link them all to the BT-2 with RJ45 cables and a hub.

The only doubt I still have is my renogy 50ah battery is not the 'smart' type, so I guess it still has BMS but may be missing some of the other comms features.

So many variables with this stuff!
 
Hello guys,

I’m after some advice and recommendations please.

Our current leisure battery (Yuasa 115ah Class C lead acid) has come to the end of its life. We were away at the weekend and it was powering the Isotherm CR49EL fridge, and a few led lights for 30 minutes. The battery was flat at around 2am (11 volts on the display and the fridge wasn’t running).

For context we also have a 100w PV logic solar panel connected to a 15A PV Logic MPPT dual controller (15A MPPT Dual Battery Charge Controller) It was sunny all day and the battery was being charged.

I think this would be a good opportunity to upgrade to lithium.

So a couple of questions. Firstly we have an Ablemail AMC 12-12-30 dc to dc charger (AMC12-12-30 - Ablemail Electronics) which I think can be reprogrammed to accept lithium. Can anyone confirm this would be okay?

Next, recommendations please for 100ah lithium battery. Should I get one with a heater?The current battery is located at the bottom of a cupboard. See photo.

The current mains battery charger is a basic Numax one (https://advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/product/numax-121000car/ ) which I think will need changing. What do you recommend?

Finally do I need anything else?

Thanks. Nick

IMG_5705.jpeg
 
Hello guys,

I’m after some advice and recommendations please.

Our current leisure battery (Yuasa 115ah Class C lead acid) has come to the end of its life. We were away at the weekend and it was powering the Isotherm CR49EL fridge, and a few led lights for 30 minutes. The battery was flat at around 2am (11 volts on the display and the fridge wasn’t running).

For context we also have a 100w PV logic solar panel connected to a 15A PV Logic MPPT dual controller (15A MPPT Dual Battery Charge Controller) It was sunny all day and the battery was being charged.

I think this would be a good opportunity to upgrade to lithium.

So a couple of questions. Firstly we have an Ablemail AMC 12-12-30 dc to dc charger (AMC12-12-30 - Ablemail Electronics) which I think can be reprogrammed to accept lithium. Can anyone confirm this would be okay?

Next, recommendations please for 100ah lithium battery. Should I get one with a heater?The current battery is located at the bottom of a cupboard. See photo.

The current mains battery charger is a basic Numax one (https://advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/product/numax-121000car/ ) which I think will need changing. What do you recommend?

Finally do I need anything else?

Thanks. Nick

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...

You can re program the ablemail dc-dc.. contact the manufacturer for now info.

Or swap for another unit like, Victron, Renogy, ctek, etc

You can swap out the hookup charger for a Victron ip22 or ip65. Or similar.

You can add additional solar, alongside eBay you have.
 
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