MTB discussion

Oh, and on the subject of ebikes, they definitely have a place as per my previous post, but my god are they heavy. I had never looked at one closely until I went into a bike shop for a clothing browse last week and picking a couple up. Definitely not for anyone who likes a bit of hike a bike.
 
@Pauly Yeah, Avis brakes to have a bit of a dodgy reputation. If you don’t know how long since they were serviced, give them a bleed, or get a dealer to do it and check the seals at the same time. I occasionally get a stuck piston which can be sorted with some silicon spray like Fork Juice, pushing the pistons in and out a few times. This relubricates the seals.

If you set the rebound on the shock too slow, it is effectively packing down, but being old it is just worse than normal. Run it at max 50% of clicks from fully open and you should be fine. You would never want to run rebound at near max for any reason I can think of. Get an independent dealer to see if they can service the shock as it won’t really be worth buying a new one for that bike. A Specialized dealer will only be interested in selling you new bits or a new bike

Not having a lockout on a shock or fork is a good thing. If you forget to release it before heading down you can blow the seals. A climb setting which effectively winds on lots of compression damping like the Fox fork is the way to go. And just forget about the travel reduction function on the fork. Most modern forks don’t even have them. Personally I never bother using the climb switch on the forks. They. Don’t really bob unless you are doing some really serious out of the saddle mashing and are racing, plus it’s just another thing to forget when you start to head downhill.

If you don’t know which local bike shops to trust, sign up to Singletrackworld and post a request for recommendations. The local independent bike shops make their money from looking after older bikes, but like car dealers there are good ones and bad ones out there
Thanks for the reply, the pistons are moving in/out ok so the caliper seems ok and I have just bought a bleed kit with a couple bottles of fluid so am going to do that soon

The shock seems to work ok I was just unsure about the fact it was locking down but as you say if I don’t dial it in too far it’s not a problem so think I will live with it for now and see how it goes when I get the sag sat properly and get some runs in as I’m yet to ride it, have a new crankset and chain to go on as well so once this is done will be ready to ride but had a pretty big off yesterday and when straight over the handlebars and took a bike in the back so still feeling a little bit sore.
I am definitely a biker on a budget so I won’t be rushing out for new parts

We are pretty lucky here and have plenty of LBS around and I know loads of people that ride that have recommended a few but being a man on my tools I like to do things myself where as they all pay to get it done so I resort to the internet to find things out

It’s funny but I actually like spending a couple hours here and there stripping things down cleaning and repairing, my other bike has had B.B./head bearing/chain and chain rings so far just a new shifter to sort now as one is sticking and the lever won’t return once that’s done it will be my full time ride and I will get going on this one properly
 
@Pauly , I take the bike is an enduro sl ? I bought the same bike back in 2007 . Its a great bike if a little quirky . I had numerous problems with front and back shocks which were very common, luckily covered under warranty . I guess that's why they ditched there own shocks a few years later .

The rebound on these was always slow so set it to fully open (fast) if not just one click from open. Avid brakes of that era don't like being upside down so they may just sort themselves out but may need a bleed.

The travel reducer on the fork is there to steepen the head angle when climbing , it won't damage the fork if you run them in that position but you wouldn't want it in that position when going dh as it would pitch your weight over the front. Regards the air pressure in the suspension , you want the sag on them when your sat on it stationery to be 30% .
I have been trying to find some proper specs on this but the only 2007-2009 enduros I can find on the spesh website are hardtails, any idea what the exact model is of this bike so I can do some more digging ?
Head bearings are ok but can heard so will need replacing at some point so hoping to find out what they are before removing the old ones
 
Thanks for the reply, the pistons are moving in/out ok so the caliper seems ok and I have just bought a bleed kit with a couple bottles of fluid so am going to do that soon

The shock seems to work ok I was just unsure about the fact it was locking down but as you say if I don’t dial it in too far it’s not a problem so think I will live with it for now and see how it goes when I get the sag sat properly and get some runs in as I’m yet to ride it, have a new crankset and chain to go on as well so once this is done will be ready to ride but had a pretty big off yesterday and when straight over the handlebars and took a bike in the back so still feeling a little bit sore.
I am definitely a biker on a budget so I won’t be rushing out for new parts

We are pretty lucky here and have plenty of LBS around and I know loads of people that ride that have recommended a few but being a man on my tools I like to do things myself where as they all pay to get it done so I resort to the internet to find things out

It’s funny but I actually like spending a couple hours here and there stripping things down cleaning and repairing, my other bike has had B.B./head bearing/chain and chain rings so far just a new shifter to sort now as one is sticking and the lever won’t return once that’s done it will be my full time ride and I will get going on this one properly

Pile ups are par for the course when getting back into it or riding more difficult terrain. I’ve had more than I can count. If you are running SPD pedals I highly recommend moving to flats. It gave me confidence to try more difficult stuff knowing I could bale and get separated from the bike if it all goes pear shaped

Nothing funny about wanting to fettle stuff - I love it. About the only thing I don’t do on my bikes are shock/fork servicing and wheel building. Saves money, is very satisfying, and helps you spot any faults before discovering them in the rain 5 miles from home
 
I’m on flats and a basic trail :oops: just bottled it and braked too late, the front wheel went over followed by my body in mid air, TBH I think I do a pretty mean superman impression :)
 
Need to get some flat pedals for mine. Ride with spd’s on both road bike and MTB. But they are definately not the right thing to have on an MTB, had so many spills off roading. Got thrown over the bars on a downhill a few years back now full somersault and bike followed in a perfect arc due to spd’s, landed with my back bent over a cut off tree trunk. Broke two ribs, thank god it wasn’t my back!
 
To make room, I have decided to sell my GT LTS, would anyone like to make me an offer?
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I’m going to put this up for sale, what do you think I should ask for it?
 
I’m going to put this up for sale, what do you think I should ask for it?
They never sell for what they are really worth in my experience @Loz sorry i could not help with a value. Not sure if you are on face book but there are some good retro mtb appreciation and selling pages.
Vintage & Retro MTB Sales UK is one
 
They never sell for what they are really worth in my experience @Loz sorry i could not help with a value. Not sure if you are on face book but there are some good retro mtb appreciation and selling pages.
Yes I can see what you mean.
What is galling is I can trade in any piece of crap against a new bike and get 250 quid off.

Okay, I’ll ask £300 for it and see if anyone bites my hand off.
 
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