Yes, 4 is correct for the parking (coolant) heater (2 for CAN, + 2 for the power).read that the overhead control/display has 4 connections, not 6.
Your wiring diagram is for the auxiliary air heater.
Yes, 4 is correct for the parking (coolant) heater (2 for CAN, + 2 for the power).read that the overhead control/display has 4 connections, not 6.
Air heater and water heater remotes work differently.Thanks for your reply.
Is the CAN bus connection only for the coolant heater and the 4 non-CAN cables are for the Airtronic air blower?
Ie. There are 2 almost separate systems, or is the CAN bus used to coordinate combined operation?
Sorry if they seem like daft questions.
Thanks
I am almost certain you already have a water heater. Please check it.Thank you for your reply @eugene .
I have an almost complete set of parts including the coolant heater and the air heater. They date from around 2016, but are very good condition.
I am working on fitting them to a 2020 model.
I have studied the diagrams and I am piecing togther the missing information.
Ideally I would like to fit the air heater part and then later the coolant part.
However I realise that they have some crossover - eg, the harness between the blue (right vehicle side) and red connector (left vehicle side).
So fitting separately might not be realistic.
The remote control feature is secondary to me at this stage / not bothered.
I'm basically understanding how it works so I can weigh-up my options.
Thanks
Could you please share the full scan damp of your system. I have the same set and would like to double check the correct coding.Here is my video and brief follow up:
Parts used:
1x VW Overhead display control unit for Webasto parking heater 7E5919037J:
View attachment 93107View attachment 93108View attachment 93109
1x 16-pin Connector for Overhead unit 1K0972928:
View attachment 93110
1x Telestart Module 3Q0963513:
View attachment 93111
1x Set of wire and Aerial for Telestart module:
View attachment 93112
1x Remote Control for Telestart 3G0963511B:
View attachment 93113
Wire set. Cross section 0.35mm for CAN-bus and 0.5mm for +12VDC and GND.
(CAN-bus cables shall be twisted together):
View attachment 93119
All connections and wiring were made according to the diagrams published in this thread.
I used T17p red plug under the driver's seat to make connection for both Overhead display and Telestart module.
Hey what's the benefit of firmware upgrade here. Seems a bit of a faff to get done, but unclear if it's required or just some feature enabled I've missed?
Is this step required or desirable? I have a module, but can't tell if this step is crucial, what issue it overcomes.My aux heater details before flashing.
Code:Address 18: Aux. Heat (J364) Labels:| 7E0-963-27X-18.clb Part No SW: 7E0 963 273 HW: 7E0 963 273 Component: STH-T5GP2 002 0007 Coding: 4101 Shop #: WSC 02759 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2 001010 ROD: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2.rod VCID: 6ADB74A98D7FEE1A6B-803E Address 18: Aux. Heat Control Module Part Number: 7E0 963 273 Component and/or Version: STH-T5GP2 002 0007 Software Coding: 4101 Work Shop Code: WSC 02759 VCID: 6ADB74A98D7FEE1A6B-803E Advanced Identification/FAZIT Identification: WOS-000 Date: 16.09.15 Manufacturer number: 2450 Test stand number: 0894 Flash Status Programming Attempts(application): 1/0/0 Flash Date: 00.00.00 Misc. Hardware number: 7E0 963 273 Workshop System Name: J364 Equipment/PR Code: 000000000000000000000000 Dataset Number: ----------- Dataset Version: ---- ASAM Dataset: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2 ASAM Dataset Revision: 001010 VCDS Info: VCID: 6ADB74A98D7FEE1A6B-803E Labels: 7E0-963-27X-18.clb ROD: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2.rod
My aux heater details after flashing(but before connecting Telestart)
Code:Address 18: Aux. Heat (J364) Labels:| 7E0-963-27X-18.clb Part No SW: 7E0 963 272 B HW: 7E0 963 273 Component: STH-T5GP2 002 0009 Coding: 4101 Shop #: WSC 02759 790 50316 ASAM Dataset: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2 001013 ROD: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2.rod VCID: 2B55B1AD4205371250-807E Address 18: Aux. Heat Control Module Part Number: 7E0 963 272 B Component and/or Version: STH-T5GP2 002 0009 Software Coding: 4101 Work Shop Code: WSC 02759 VCID: 2B55B1AD4205371250-807E Advanced Identification/FAZIT Identification: WOS-000 Date: 16.09.15 Manufacturer number: 2450 Test stand number: 0894 Flash Status Programming Attempts(application): 1/1/1 Flash Date: 00.00.00 Misc. Hardware number: 7E0 963 273 Workshop System Name: J364 Equipment/PR Code: 000000000000000000000000 Dataset Number: ----------- Dataset Version: ---- ASAM Dataset: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2 ASAM Dataset Revision: 001013 VCDS Info: VCID: 2B55B1AD4205371250-807E Labels: 7E0-963-27X-18.clb ROD: EV_AuxilParkiHeateWOST5G2.rod
As per thread title, the firmware update "converts" AUXILIARY heater into PARKING heater.Hey what's the benefit of firmware upgrade here. Seems a bit of a faff to get done, but unclear if it's required or just some feature enabled I've missed?
I need a bit of help I am getting a persistent error from the roof mounted heater screen 6E which says control module EEPROM Error 014 - Defective.You just need to add your new unit in CAN Gateway(19) INSTALLATION LIST and then verify its own coding but default coding should work anyway.
Hey Robert. So here's what i've got... (used your guide as a shopping list)
Receiver: 5Q0.963.513.A
FOB: 7N0963511 (T91R-WO9)
View attachment 282701View attachment 282703View attachment 282704
Flashed: FL_7E0963272B__0009.frf using VCS. (also 'sees' the T91 as a sub controller)
Coded: 5101 using VCDS
Connected 12V perm supply under drivers seat, tested with multimeter. Green/White (Red connection pin-1) connected to Pin-2 output.
OK.... so the problem, I can't get the T91 LIN to pair with the remote. Unplugged T91 blue connector, plug in wait-2 press 'off' for 1-sec.... NOTHING. Just flashes red.
Is there anyway to validate either component works?
The timing to press "off" after power on is fairly critical - not too soon, not too late.OK.... so the problem, I can't get the T91 LIN to pair with the remote. Unplugged T91 blue connector, plug in wait-2 press 'off' for 1-sec.... NOTHING. Just flashes red.
It's not paired -Also... i dont know if the remote is correctly paired with the receiver. when pressing of by 2 sec more or less red light blinks 4 times and if i press the on button the green light blinks again four time but... nothing happens...
Yup tried. Struggling. Did your comment say it can be done by VCDS?The timing to press "off" after power on is fairly critical - not too soon, not too late.
It's not paired -Also... i dont know if the remote is correctly paired with the receiver. when pressing of by 2 sec more or less red light blinks 4 times and if i press the on button the green light blinks again four time but... nothing happens...
Either by VCDS or
Remote sync/learning:
1. Verify the remote: press OFF ▷ blinking red light on the remote.
2. Power OFF the controller (5Q0963513A or 3Q0963513) for at least 5 seconds. OEM setup fuse SC54 (7.5A)
3. Power ON the controller.
4. After approx. 2 seconds (but before 6 secs) press OFF on the remote for 2...
Well, I haven't verified on this specific pair of controller and the FOB. But I have done the pairing with the alternative controller: 3Q0 963 513 - so just assuming both to be the same.Yup tried. Struggling.
Never heard about that - do you mean on the FOB?I assume the first thing you do after pairing is try to validate by holding on/off together for 3 seconds…. I get nothing.
Yes.Did your comment say it can be done by VCDS?
are you sure the battery is alright in the fob? if yes, you might have a faulty receiver/fobYup tried. Struggling. Did your comment say it can be done by VCDS?
Using stopwatch, but I assume the first thing you do after pairing is try to validate by holding on/off together for 3 seconds…. I get nothing.
New battery enroute. receiver/fob sourced independently, but parts are correct and at least some elements are responding well. LED on fob and receiver appears in VCDS & VCP.... so they're not totally bricked, but that's why i'm looking for a way to validate each component.are you sure the battery is alright in the fob? if yes, you might have a faulty receiver/fob
I have a few spare recievers if you face a dead endNew battery enroute. receiver/fob sourced independently, but parts are correct and at least some elements are responding well. LED on fob and receiver appears in VCDS & VCP.... so they're not totally bricked, but that's why i'm looking for a way to validate each component.