Orion 12/12/18 keeps switching off

[Chris1983]

Just a bump in case any thoughts? Obvs I will digests this chaps report and pull the dual core anyhow. See if that helps, but Solar oddness since and the ‘residual current’, am I right to have spider sense tingling?

 

[Chris1983]

 

[Chris1983]

This is what he has suggested doing from MPPT to LB side

 

[ginkster]

I have noticed, since his intervention. When LB isolator switched off the solar controller reads mad low voltages like 6-8 jumping around, but when isolator turned on, all goes back to normal. What’s happening here? What wire has he moved you reckon?

Sorry Chris, not had time to read all of it but this jumped out at me. You should isolate the panels before isolating the LB. Then LB on first before turning in the panels. The MPPT doesn’t like having panel voltage with no LB connected (see Victron instructions).

 

[Chris1983]

Sorry Chris, not had time to read all of it but this jumped out at me. You should isolate the panels before isolating the LB. Then LB on first before turning in the panels. The MPPT doesn’t like having panel voltage with no LB connected (see Victron instructions).

Panels covered in a ton of snow, pulling nothing, presume this is equiv to a blanket across them?

 

[Chris1983]

And I mean the master leisure isolator type switch yes (wasn’t sure if made clear).

 

[Chris1983]

And he changed DC OUTPUT to a fatter but none fused cable (goes to positive busbar)

 

[Chris1983]

My mistake earlier

 

[ginkster]

An update for anyone interested.

Had a pleasant chap come out to look at electrics. Specialises in Vw camper electrics, owns two vans, seems knowledgable.

More from the POV of reassurance and to get his opinion on the weird dissonance in voltage numbers in my system.

Despite the shocking weather he was seemingly very thorough.

Also VERY complimentary of the guidance on this forum in guiding me on what he described as a safe install. (He described some ‘shockers’ he has seen). He was BOOSTED Solar had isolator on, so thanks guys!

Anyhow, he did loads of tests, in and out of various electrics like a ferret and will write a comprehensive report.

Main things as I understand.

-Starter battery shagged (I knew this, as AMT 12-2 has been propping up).

-increased size of positive cable to dc to dc (I used the original installed one with an inline midi fuse when I put lifepo in , he suggested too small so changed that BUT said no need for fuse there)

-suggested voltage drop is from rear cabinet (MPPT) on small gauge wire. Thinks also need to separate out systems, so has advised I fish a dual core cable for positive and negative to be closer to LB under drivers seat rather than rely on rear chassis ground. He had no wire long enough so is going to send me a link to that.

-also advised bus bar in rear from MPPT to dual core cable (I think this is what he called it).

-advised to install an isolator switch on main negative from battery too.

-one anomaly was the rear most two hab spot lights (so not main spotlights) remained on when LB was isolated. He thinks this is residual draw so has moved a cable off the positive bus bar onto the LB post. He demonstrated this had indeed worked (Solar was out of equation as a foot of snow on panels), he advised the led lights need such little power residual from starter battery would power these. Why is the starter batter powering hab lights?!?!?

This latter point raised my spider sense.

He reassured me all was safe.

His allotted two hour slot ended, he is going to send me a report with links and explanations etc and is happy to come out again if need be.

I have noticed, since his intervention. When LB isolator switched off the solar controller reads mad low voltages like 6-8 jumping around, but when isolator turned on, all goes back to normal. What’s happening here? What wire has he moved you reckon?

I’ll pull the dual core wire etc through and see if that helps the erroneous numbers but this is a new bit of info?!

Anyway, as this forum has been such a mega help, wanted to feedback on the journey

Chris

Points in turn:

Don’t worry about the SB for now if AMT is keeping it going.

DC-DC output cable should be fused at LB end. Doesn’t need a fuse at Orion end. See the Victron instructions for a diagram.

Thicker positive cable to rear will always be better voltage drop wise. Seem to remember this was discussed early on in the thread. Negative should not be a problem as long as the connections are good. The VW wiring all goes via the chassis! Mine all goes via the chassis. Before feeding a new cable try a 10 or 16mm2 cable trailing across the floor to see if it helps. If it does then feed it through properly. If not you’ve saved a load of time and hassle.

Isolator on LB neg is pointless and just another source of resistance, voltage drop and potential for loose/dodgy connections. If the pos is isolated the battery is isolated!

It’s possible some of your hab lights are on a SB circuit, possibly from old interior lights in the rear? LEDs can sometimes give off a dim glow for a while after ignition is shut off. I replaced my front overhead bulbs (by the mirror) with LEDs and they glow slightly for a while after the van is powered off. Don’t understand the comment about moving the cable from a busbar to the battery post as that should make no difference.

 

[Chris1983]

Thanks for reply, guy is coming back out next week as the Solar mppt now reading bonkers numbers when lb isolated so will see what is said. Bloody confusing the lot of it

 

[Chris1983]

the chap is talking about residual current but I am not sure, hence why he is returning.

I’ll keep folk posted

 

[Chris1983]

Chris

Points in turn:

Don’t worry about the SB for now if AMT is keeping it going.

DC-DC output cable should be fused at LB end. Doesn’t need a fuse at Orion end. See the Victron instructions for a diagram.

Thicker positive cable to rear will always be better voltage drop wise. Seem to remember this was discussed early on in the thread. Negative should not be a problem as long as the connections are good. The VW wiring all goes via the chassis! Mine all goes via the chassis. Before feeding a new cable try a 10 or 16mm2 cable trailing across the floor to see if it helps. If it does then feed it through properly. If not you’ve saved a load of time and hassle.

Isolator on LB neg is pointless and just another source of resistance, voltage drop and potential for loose/dodgy connections. If the pos is isolated the battery is isolated!

It’s possible some of your hab lights are on a SB circuit, possibly from old interior lights in the rear? LEDs can sometimes give off a dim glow for a while after ignition is shut off. I replaced my front overhead bulbs (by the mirror) with LEDs and they glow slightly for a while after the van is powered off. Don’t understand the comment about moving the cable from a busbar to the battery post as that should make no difference.

Not glow I don’t think. Like BOOOM morning!!! Lights are on, versus off. Very definitely ‘ON’. Since his change of wire the isolator on the LB does cut MPPT power (it disappears from Victron app, whereas before it stayed with 13v power when LB isolated which I wasn’t sure was correct). It’s one of the things he is going to look at.