Orion 12/12/18 keeps switching off

Still weird shunt is out. I will probably attribute that to the choice of negative chassis as seat bolt.

I may just look the other way now hahah. My wife has joined the children in staring at me out of the house window haha, reminding me it’s Xmas eve!

Festive best to the forum folk with an abundance of patience!!
 
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That’s all much closer. Let’s see how it all looks after Xmas. Maybe leave something on to drain the LB a bit and see how the readings all look before you start the engine in a couple of days. Then DC-DC only. Then solar only. Then both (if there’s any sun!).

Have a good one!
 
I took a multimeter reading from chassis earth and chassis side of shunt (think that was reading that was way out earlier).

Is now 0.02
 
Boxing Day question if anyone not in a stupor…..

Which is more reliable? BT battery app for % charge or shunt?

Mine are out by 10%? No rush on expertise, just trying to learn always

D3C2F7A1-685C-4802-A5D6-DF298E2D7D54.png

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Shunt. So long as it’s had its SOC calibrated correctly. The BMS doesn’t sense small currents but the shunt will.
 
Cool, thank you. So was approx 93% last night and 88% this morning. Only thing plugged in on leisure side is a not in use USB 12v jobbie (it does light up so that will be a draw).

Does that sound right or do I need to start thinking about parasitic draw etc?

Another interesting (or not) thing was as I was playing around, I switched the isolator to leisure system off (in drivers seat) and Solar was off but lights all stayed on. So it would seem the engine running also kept system ‘on’. Is this normal? I don’t know why but I thought switch leisure side off for turn ALL leisure stuff off, irrespective of engine being on
 
Sounds high for just an unused USB charger. Do you have an AMT12-2 as well? The pics you posted earlier show a draw of 1.8a on the BMS but only 0.22a in the shunt. What had changed between the pics taken only a few seconds apart?

I’m not 100% sure on how the DC-DC will act if the LB is isolated as I’ve not tried. It should see no LB voltage so may not try to start charging. But alternatively it may think the battery is totally flat so try to charge it - not sure if it needs at least a small voltage to try this - in which case there will be power at the busbars so lights would work. Or, is the Orion definitely in charger mode and not power supply mode?

Don’t go chasing the numbers. Get the LB fully charged (mains charger if possible) and datum the shunt SOC. Just use the system and check back in a few days. At the moment it’s been on, off and near, but not quite fully charged. You’ve unplugged stuff and switched things around. Just use it and cycle it and see how things go in a week. If you’ve now got the wiring sorted, the charger battery modes set correctly and the auto detection set right it should all sort itself out.
 
Sounds high for just an unused USB charger. Do you have an AMT12-2 as well? The pics you posted earlier show a draw of 1.8a on the BMS but only 0.22a in the shunt. What had changed between the pics taken only a few seconds apart?

I’m not 100% sure on how the DC-DC will act if the LB is isolated as I’ve not tried. It should see no LB voltage so may not try to start charging. But alternatively it may think the battery is totally flat so try to charge it - not sure if it needs at least a small voltage to try this - in which case there will be power at the busbars so lights would work. Or, is the Orion definitely in charger mode and not power supply mode?

Don’t go chasing the numbers. Get the LB fully charged (mains charger if possible) and datum the shunt SOC. Just use the system and check back in a few days. At the moment it’s been on, off and near, but not quite fully charged. You’ve unplugged stuff and switched things around. Just use it and cycle it and see how things go in a week. If you’ve now got the wiring sorted, the charger battery modes set correctly and the auto detection set right it should all sort itself out.
Nothing had changed.

Yes to Amt 12-2
 
Can you remind (only if you have time) what settings I should have stuff set at?

MPPT

DC to DC

shunt
 
IMG_1013.pngCan you remind (only if you have time) what settings I should have stuff set at?

MPPT

DC to DC

shunt
I’m not saying these are 100% the perfect settings but they are working well for me. The Fogstar website has details on their FAQ page for Victron specific settings - I’ve used those.

MPPT:

IMG_1011.png

IMG_1012.png

Orion (mine is a 30A but settings should be v similar). I’m on the default engine detection settings and they work fine for me:

IMG_1008.png

IMG_1009.png

IMG_1010.png

Shunt:

IMG_1013.png
 
AMT will explain the different output between the pics. It will also go some way to explaining the usage overnight, especially if your starter battery is a bit low.
excellent! Yes, I think Amt propping up a very much last legs starter battery. Glad this seems more sorted now
 
I’m not saying these are 100% the perfect settings but they are working well for me. The Fogstar website has details on their FAQ page for Victron specific settings - I’ve used those.

MPPT:

View attachment 269138

View attachment 269139

Orion (mine is a 30A but settings should be v similar). I’m on the default engine detection settings and they work fine for me:

View attachment 269140

View attachment 269141

View attachment 269142

Shunt:

View attachment 269144
I’ll check all mine tomorrow
 
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