Orion 12/12/18 keeps switching off
- Thread starter Chris1983
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- dc - dc charger victron
Still weird shunt is out. I will probably attribute that to the choice of negative chassis as seat bolt.
I may just look the other way now hahah. My wife has joined the children in staring at me out of the house window haha, reminding me it’s Xmas eve!
Festive best to the forum folk with an abundance of patience!!
I may just look the other way now hahah. My wife has joined the children in staring at me out of the house window haha, reminding me it’s Xmas eve!
Festive best to the forum folk with an abundance of patience!!
That’s all much closer. Let’s see how it all looks after Xmas. Maybe leave something on to drain the LB a bit and see how the readings all look before you start the engine in a couple of days. Then DC-DC only. Then solar only. Then both (if there’s any sun!).
Have a good one!
Have a good one!
Cool, thank you. So was approx 93% last night and 88% this morning. Only thing plugged in on leisure side is a not in use USB 12v jobbie (it does light up so that will be a draw).
Does that sound right or do I need to start thinking about parasitic draw etc?
Another interesting (or not) thing was as I was playing around, I switched the isolator to leisure system off (in drivers seat) and Solar was off but lights all stayed on. So it would seem the engine running also kept system ‘on’. Is this normal? I don’t know why but I thought switch leisure side off for turn ALL leisure stuff off, irrespective of engine being on
Does that sound right or do I need to start thinking about parasitic draw etc?
Another interesting (or not) thing was as I was playing around, I switched the isolator to leisure system off (in drivers seat) and Solar was off but lights all stayed on. So it would seem the engine running also kept system ‘on’. Is this normal? I don’t know why but I thought switch leisure side off for turn ALL leisure stuff off, irrespective of engine being on
Sounds high for just an unused USB charger. Do you have an AMT12-2 as well? The pics you posted earlier show a draw of 1.8a on the BMS but only 0.22a in the shunt. What had changed between the pics taken only a few seconds apart?
I’m not 100% sure on how the DC-DC will act if the LB is isolated as I’ve not tried. It should see no LB voltage so may not try to start charging. But alternatively it may think the battery is totally flat so try to charge it - not sure if it needs at least a small voltage to try this - in which case there will be power at the busbars so lights would work. Or, is the Orion definitely in charger mode and not power supply mode?
Don’t go chasing the numbers. Get the LB fully charged (mains charger if possible) and datum the shunt SOC. Just use the system and check back in a few days. At the moment it’s been on, off and near, but not quite fully charged. You’ve unplugged stuff and switched things around. Just use it and cycle it and see how things go in a week. If you’ve now got the wiring sorted, the charger battery modes set correctly and the auto detection set right it should all sort itself out.
I’m not 100% sure on how the DC-DC will act if the LB is isolated as I’ve not tried. It should see no LB voltage so may not try to start charging. But alternatively it may think the battery is totally flat so try to charge it - not sure if it needs at least a small voltage to try this - in which case there will be power at the busbars so lights would work. Or, is the Orion definitely in charger mode and not power supply mode?
Don’t go chasing the numbers. Get the LB fully charged (mains charger if possible) and datum the shunt SOC. Just use the system and check back in a few days. At the moment it’s been on, off and near, but not quite fully charged. You’ve unplugged stuff and switched things around. Just use it and cycle it and see how things go in a week. If you’ve now got the wiring sorted, the charger battery modes set correctly and the auto detection set right it should all sort itself out.
AMT will explain the different output between the pics. It will also go some way to explaining the usage overnight, especially if your starter battery is a bit low.
I’m not saying these are 100% the perfect settings but they are working well for me. The Fogstar website has details on their FAQ page for Victron specific settings - I’ve used those.Can you remind (only if you have time) what settings I should have stuff set at?
MPPT
DC to DC
shunt
MPPT:
Orion (mine is a 30A but settings should be v similar). I’m on the default engine detection settings and they work fine for me:
Shunt:
excellent! Yes, I think Amt propping up a very much last legs starter battery. Glad this seems more sorted now
I’ll check all mine tomorrow
An update for anyone interested.
Had a pleasant chap come out to look at electrics. Specialises in Vw camper electrics, owns two vans, seems knowledgable.
More from the POV of reassurance and to get his opinion on the weird dissonance in voltage numbers in my system.
Despite the shocking weather he was seemingly very thorough.
Also VERY complimentary of the guidance on this forum in guiding me on what he described as a safe install. (He described some ‘shockers’ he has seen). He was BOOSTED Solar had isolator on, so thanks guys!
Anyhow, he did loads of tests, in and out of various electrics like a ferret and will write a comprehensive report.
Main things as I understand.
-Starter battery shagged (I knew this, as AMT 12-2 has been propping up).
-increased size of positive cable to dc to dc (I used the original installed one with an inline midi fuse when I put lifepo in , he suggested too small so changed that BUT said no need for fuse there)
-suggested voltage drop is from rear cabinet (MPPT) on small gauge wire. Thinks also need to separate out systems, so has advised I fish a dual core cable for positive and negative to be closer to LB under drivers seat rather than rely on rear chassis ground. He had no wire long enough so is going to send me a link to that.
-also advised bus bar in rear from MPPT to dual core cable (I think this is what he called it).
-advised to install an isolator switch on main negative from battery too.
-one anomaly was the rear most two hab spot lights (so not main spotlights) remained on when LB was isolated. He thinks this is residual draw so has moved a cable off the positive bus bar onto the LB post. He demonstrated this had indeed worked (Solar was out of equation as a foot of snow on panels), he advised the led lights need such little power residual from starter battery would power these. Why is the starter batter powering hab lights?!?!?
This latter point raised my spider sense.
He reassured me all was safe.
His allotted two hour slot ended, he is going to send me a report with links and explanations etc and is happy to come out again if need be.
I have noticed, since his intervention. When LB isolator switched off the solar controller reads mad low voltages like 6-8 jumping around, but when isolator turned on, all goes back to normal. What’s happening here? What wire has he moved you reckon?
I’ll pull the dual core wire etc through and see if that helps the erroneous numbers but this is a new bit of info?!
Anyway, as this forum has been such a mega help, wanted to feedback on the journey
Had a pleasant chap come out to look at electrics. Specialises in Vw camper electrics, owns two vans, seems knowledgable.
More from the POV of reassurance and to get his opinion on the weird dissonance in voltage numbers in my system.
Despite the shocking weather he was seemingly very thorough.
Also VERY complimentary of the guidance on this forum in guiding me on what he described as a safe install. (He described some ‘shockers’ he has seen). He was BOOSTED Solar had isolator on, so thanks guys!
Anyhow, he did loads of tests, in and out of various electrics like a ferret and will write a comprehensive report.
Main things as I understand.
-Starter battery shagged (I knew this, as AMT 12-2 has been propping up).
-increased size of positive cable to dc to dc (I used the original installed one with an inline midi fuse when I put lifepo in , he suggested too small so changed that BUT said no need for fuse there)
-suggested voltage drop is from rear cabinet (MPPT) on small gauge wire. Thinks also need to separate out systems, so has advised I fish a dual core cable for positive and negative to be closer to LB under drivers seat rather than rely on rear chassis ground. He had no wire long enough so is going to send me a link to that.
-also advised bus bar in rear from MPPT to dual core cable (I think this is what he called it).
-advised to install an isolator switch on main negative from battery too.
-one anomaly was the rear most two hab spot lights (so not main spotlights) remained on when LB was isolated. He thinks this is residual draw so has moved a cable off the positive bus bar onto the LB post. He demonstrated this had indeed worked (Solar was out of equation as a foot of snow on panels), he advised the led lights need such little power residual from starter battery would power these. Why is the starter batter powering hab lights?!?!?
This latter point raised my spider sense.
He reassured me all was safe.
His allotted two hour slot ended, he is going to send me a report with links and explanations etc and is happy to come out again if need be.
I have noticed, since his intervention. When LB isolator switched off the solar controller reads mad low voltages like 6-8 jumping around, but when isolator turned on, all goes back to normal. What’s happening here? What wire has he moved you reckon?
I’ll pull the dual core wire etc through and see if that helps the erroneous numbers but this is a new bit of info?!
Anyway, as this forum has been such a mega help, wanted to feedback on the journey
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