Fitted the same to mine late last year - pretty easy to follow the instructions provided.
I did manage to find the grommet back through the firewall on the drivers side - its just under the master cylinder and had to bend the heatshield back/pull insulation back a bit.

i have a 67 EU6 ...i must admit, i didn't look too hard and certainly didn't look behind heat shields etc as by then i'd already pretty much decided i was going to go off piste and freestyle the installation a bit :)
 
Fitted the same to mine late last year - pretty easy to follow the instructions provided.

Agree that the vw foam inserts could just be fabricated from something else to save a few quid. When picking up the support bar from VW they said I didn't need them (found out I did). Mine is a 65 plate eu5 and I think that confuses the parts dept!

Like Sparkzer I think you could save some time/effort with the wiring - its worth reading the instructions before routing the cables to work out where you need to go (wish I did); Under the passenger seat I put the cable up through and it seemed pointless to introduce a cable through the grommet to just join the cables together (would make sense if your setup is different however). I also have the red spare power cables under that seat and read since that I could have used them for power rather than going in up to the battery.

I did manage to find the grommet back through the firewall on the drivers side - its just under the master cylinder and had to bend the heatshield back/pull insulation back a bit.
Thanks James, this is really useful information! I didn't bother bringing the cables into the passenger seat either. I've just got to route the cables through into the drivers area and connect up.
I thought the socket holder was on a pivot to drop down when required and then popped up out of the way when not in use, (as per the video on the PFJones website). A little disappointed that's not the case and the bumpers not back on yet as I've been busy on other things like my day job:confused:
 
Fitted the same to mine late last year - pretty easy to follow the instructions provided.

Agree that the vw foam inserts could just be fabricated from something else to save a few quid. When picking up the support bar from VW they said I didn't need them (found out I did). Mine is a 65 plate eu5 and I think that confuses the parts dept!

Like Sparkzer I think you could save some time/effort with the wiring - its worth reading the instructions before routing the cables to work out where you need to go (wish I did); Under the passenger seat I put the cable up through and it seemed pointless to introduce a cable through the grommet to just join the cables together (would make sense if your setup is different however). I also have the red spare power cables under that seat and read since that I could have used them for power rather than going in up to the battery.

I did manage to find the grommet back through the firewall on the drivers side - its just under the master cylinder and had to bend the heatshield back/pull insulation back a bit.

I dont suppose you could be so kind to share a photo of said grommet to drivers side could you @DieselJames?
 
Can I use the towbar without having it programmed by VW? (I just want to test it before booking it in).
 
The reason I ask is that my brake lights are not working on my tow bar bike rack?
Which of the three wires spliced into the can bus connectors is responsible for this function?
 
I read a thread on here about a similar problem where the lights were always on. They'd tapped onto the wrong canbus cable - the black and red, which is what the instructions say, instead of black and red with yellow dashes. I've done this too but not tested it yet so not off to change it until I do. Might be worth looking at though.
 
Thanks - I will need to check but my god it’s a b!tch to get too, and difficult to see any of their colours never mind tap into them:mad:
 
I know what you mean, I had to get wedged between the centre dash and the handbrake lever to work on mine!
 
i found unplugging, then removing the BCM (it just clips out) gives slightly better access to those cables. I split the plugs down partly to double check i was selecting the right cable and partly to allow me to slide some heatshrink over the cable joint.
 
i found unplugging, then removing the BCM (it just clips out) gives slightly better access to those cables. I split the plugs down partly to double check i was selecting the right cable and partly to allow me to slide some heatshrink over the cable joint.
You're able to remove the cables from the connector? I was able to unplug them, but wasn't sure there was the space or possibility of removing the individual cables. Does this require a special tool?
 
if you pop the back cover off the connector (i think its just some tape and a clip each side?) it gives more workable room on the cable and also you can see the pin numbers on the back of the plug to further verify you are connecting to the correct cable.

From memory i think i made my splices close the the crimp so the 'new' additional wires came out the back of the connector when the cover was refitted giving no obvious indication of the additional cable being added - i hate seeing a rats nest of crimps/scotchlocks and especially not chockblocks connectors when i look at a vehicles wiring so always try and make any mods look as 'stock as possible'

just re-reading your point above - you mentioned that the brake lights were not working however didn't clarify if indicators/side lights were working?
 
if you pop the back cover off the connector (i think its just some tape and a clip each side?) it gives more workable room on the cable and also you can see the pin numbers on the back of the plug to further verify you are connecting to the correct cable.

From memory i think i made my splices close the the crimp so the 'new' additional wires came out the back of the connector when the cover was refitted giving no obvious indication of the additional cable being added - i hate seeing a rats nest of crimps/scotchlocks and especially not chockblocks connectors when i look at a vehicles wiring so always try and make any mods look as 'stock as possible'

just re-reading your point above - you mentioned that the brake lights were not working however didn't clarify if indicators/side lights were working?

Yes, everything working except the brake lights. I'm attempting to remove the connector again now.
 
If the indicators are working then comms must be established as the signal to the trailer module goes down the same pair of cables...not sure you would get anything if you was on the wrong cables?
 
OK - so I wasn't able to remove the connector plug to see the correct pin number, but I did spot the black and red cable with the yellow dash. Swapped over and now it all works. I will relay this information to PF Jones, as they didn't add the yellow dash missing piece of information!

What is the advantage of having it programmed by VW if everything works?
 
I read a thread on here about a similar problem where the lights were always on. They'd tapped onto the wrong canbus cable - the black and red, which is what the instructions say, instead of black and red with yellow dashes. I've done this too but not tested it yet so not off to change it until I do. Might be worth looking at though.

GREAT advice Lukavell - I found the black/red wire with the yellow dashes and this is now all working. I also had a message from PFJones after providing this information that this was the first they'd heard of it! I hope this information is updated in their instructions for the next unsuspecting T6 ownero_O
 
Usual problem, I look at the threads and nothing pinpoints to what I want the answer to be...

WHOS fitted the PFJones Detachable towbar PROPERLY and not just wairing into a light Loom at the rear.
my van hasn’t got towbar prep, is this something I can attempt myself and manage ??or is it a real b*****d and worth just paying someone to do it properly... I did do all the leisure electrics myself, and I am a sparky of some nature.. lol

 
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