Thank you.
Not sure all that will be necessary for my purposes. I need to give it some more thought.
PFJones Towbar fit
- Thread starter Pau1GTI
- Start date
Not sure all that will be necessary for my purposes. I need to give it some more thought.
It's indeed that, telling your car that you have a tow bar and that it might need to adapt stuff the moment something is attached. Think lights etc. will work even without.
But just know that the coding itself is not too difficult. It's just ticking a box, and then go to the right bit of coding, and change some long coding, with the last VCDS software you just have to tick one or two boxes (can look up what exactly I had to do). If you don't have vcds, I'm pretty sure there's somebody not too far from you who will give you a hand.
If you do it, you know that everything that's there is actually 'rightly connected' (my autistic side likes to have stuff like that done
). Also, if you then ever decide to add a towbar, everything is in place.
But just know that the coding itself is not too difficult. It's just ticking a box, and then go to the right bit of coding, and change some long coding, with the last VCDS software you just have to tick one or two boxes (can look up what exactly I had to do). If you don't have vcds, I'm pretty sure there's somebody not too far from you who will give you a hand.
If you do it, you know that everything that's there is actually 'rightly connected' (my autistic side likes to have stuff like that done
). Also, if you then ever decide to add a towbar, everything is in place.Hi All, after a little help. I'm in the process of fitting the loom for towbar. The instructions show the loom entering through the floor under the passenger seat, but the Ad Blue tank is there and I cannot see a way over it, am I missing something? Also where the loom enters the cab below the brake reservoir, show a grommet to remove but there is nothing there???
If you have the PF Jones loom then the under seat part is potentially unnecessary. Check what rotary switch you have and you may see that the wires that come inside are simply connected together.
Re. the grommet, it is there but well hidden!
Re. the grommet, it is there but well hidden!
Your a star! option 2 light switch so the cables are just looped. As for the grommet I'll keep looking. Many Thanks, Mark.
Brearz
VCDS User
I have the same issue...........Couple of Q.s
1. How do you remove the rotary light switch. I cant see what the PFJones instructions is trying to show and i dont want to force it
2. it looks tricky/impossible to scotch onto the cables in the pedal box....Can the plus be unplugged to get more access?
3. If I unplug the main battery will it reset itself or will it need setting up in VCDS as a new battery ?
sorry to jump in
1. How do you remove the rotary light switch. I cant see what the PFJones instructions is trying to show and i dont want to force it
2. it looks tricky/impossible to scotch onto the cables in the pedal box....Can the plus be unplugged to get more access?
3. If I unplug the main battery will it reset itself or will it need setting up in VCDS as a new battery ?
sorry to jump in
The grommet is located in the wiper scuttle area and can be accessed via the removable panel above and to the left of the brake reservoir. Be careful not to drop the bolts as the tend to get Lost in the engine bay.
I managed to identify the switch type without removing it. I never did find the grommet! I removed the supplied grommet and right at the top of the bulkhead, to the right (if in drivers seat) of the brake master cylinder there is multi point grommet in the bulkhead. I used one of the spare points in that, worked perfect.
The connections under the dash was a real faff, with the black and white plugs unplugged you can just manipulate it enough to get the cable. Mine didn't match colours on the instructions perfectly as they both had coloured tracers on the cable too. Towed at the weekend and all works perfectly.
Brearz
VCDS User
Van
Ok great. That’s nowhere near where the PFJames instructions show, thanks I’ll have a look tomorrow . The instructions show below RH of the master cylinder .
Haven't got to the coding yet, parking sensors go off but the button on the dash turns this and the rear camera off. I wanted to check on the actual towing first. Lane assist still works perfectly too. Next step is to figure out the VCDS, whether to pay someone or just get the equipment.
Brearz
VCDS User
I went for the VCDS . Not used it much other than scans but it seems quite easy to use if you follow the instructions. I looked at second hand unrestricted VINs but older units will not run new vans so be carefull. I recommend buy new from Gendan. Nearly got caught out With an unlimited VINs second hand unit. I’ve got x3 VINs and scans do not knock down VINS . Only mods ...coding
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Brearz
VCDS User
The grommet was in where you said. no where near the westfalia/ pfjones instructions.
I found the grommet as specified in the instructions, though it was hidden behind some sound deadening foam and nearly impossible to get at - everything had to be done by touch. If I remember correctly, it was just to one side of the steering column.
it does sound like there is another, and maybe easier, possibility though.
it does sound like there is another, and maybe easier, possibility though.
If you're contemplating or have a 12v system inside the van then you don't necessarily need to go in the engine bay at all.
I ran the whole loom up through the grommet under the passenger seat and powered it from a switched feed that comes from the e box. That way I only have one or two dedicated cables to/from the e box under the battery rather than the having to bolt the rather unsightly cables onto the main battery which I think looks rather half baked. The BCM cables can be run under the mat in the central void to the dash.
FYI the BCM plugs can be unclipped to aid access to the cables although I did everything with the battery removed. It was out for about 4 days and only required the one touch windows to be reset after reconnection.
Definitely find someone with VCDS. It's so easy to code you'll regret paying a dealer for their time although in fairness the equipment is not cheap.
Re. The colour coding, there is a thread on here about this as one of the codes in the instructions is incorrect.
I ran the whole loom up through the grommet under the passenger seat and powered it from a switched feed that comes from the e box. That way I only have one or two dedicated cables to/from the e box under the battery rather than the having to bolt the rather unsightly cables onto the main battery which I think looks rather half baked. The BCM cables can be run under the mat in the central void to the dash.
FYI the BCM plugs can be unclipped to aid access to the cables although I did everything with the battery removed. It was out for about 4 days and only required the one touch windows to be reset after reconnection.
Definitely find someone with VCDS. It's so easy to code you'll regret paying a dealer for their time although in fairness the equipment is not cheap.
Re. The colour coding, there is a thread on here about this as one of the codes in the instructions is incorrect.
HI All trying to fit a pf jones towbar electrics but having issues with fuse box side. How I read it you take out pin 2 then fit wiring loom 15 into pins 5 and 4 which I have checked on the t6 has ready got wires in these locations. Then you put wire 3 into a block and a would assume that was the wire I took out of pin 2,the the L wire from towbar socket put into pin 2 but all these pin locations already have allocated wires in them. pics of diagram below could anyone help having a nightmare with it many thanks.
Looks simple to me
The numbers are the steps you need to do.
Page 28
1 Slide the latch on the side of the fuse box.
2 Remove a 30+ wire, It can be any live wire
3 Connect the wire you've removed into part 8
4 Part 15 has 2 wires, Insert one in the slot where you removed the wire
5 Use the 2nd wire from part 15 and put it in a spare slot in the fusebox. Note both sides of the fuse need to be free
Page29
1 click parts 8 and 15 together.
2 Insert cable L into the fusebox to link to the last wire you added on page 28 step5.
3 slide the latch on the side of the fusebox back to lock the pins in
4 Reinsert the fuse you removed on Page28 step2
5 Insert a new fuse which connects the wires from Page28 step 5 and Page29 step 2
To be honest this sounds a faff. Just find a spare fuse slot and add L .
HTH
The numbers are the steps you need to do.
Page 28
1 Slide the latch on the side of the fuse box.
2 Remove a 30+ wire, It can be any live wire
3 Connect the wire you've removed into part 8
4 Part 15 has 2 wires, Insert one in the slot where you removed the wire
5 Use the 2nd wire from part 15 and put it in a spare slot in the fusebox. Note both sides of the fuse need to be free
Page29
1 click parts 8 and 15 together.
2 Insert cable L into the fusebox to link to the last wire you added on page 28 step5.
3 slide the latch on the side of the fusebox back to lock the pins in
4 Reinsert the fuse you removed on Page28 step2
5 Insert a new fuse which connects the wires from Page28 step 5 and Page29 step 2
To be honest this sounds a faff. Just find a spare fuse slot and add L .
HTH
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