Portable Solar panel confusion

ahappychappie

Senior Member
T6 Guru
Hi,

Going to the F1 in a few weeks, have no hookup so pretty sure leisure battery won't last - we're there from Thurs - Mon. Main concern is of course fridge for Beer (oh and food I guess) will run out of juice - especially if it's a nice warm weekend. Fridge is Waeco CRX50.

I've looked through all the threads and getting myself v confused - re controllers etc - and of course don't want to assume I've got it right only to damage my electric setup in the van in anyway . I have standard 110a leisure battery with split relay charge

Looking at the Dokio 100w 12v foldables. Is it really as simple as this picture - I.e. plug panel into controller - controller has clips and simply connect to terminals on my leisure battery?? Or have I missed something very obvious - other threads it seems more complicated than this?? E.g mention of Fuse connections..?

I'm unlikely to need it again - hence just looking at cheap and cheerful option.

Screenshot_20240528-114559.png
 
See you there! Have you considered borrowing or buying (secondhand off marketplace) a second battery? More reliable power than solar that may give you next to nothing if when it’s cloudy. Just swap batteries over when the first is getting low. Hand back or resell when you return.
 
I suspect 100w will help slow your loses but I'd think 200w will be better to keep up.

I know you are only thinking of a one off but consider that if it works well you might want to do it again.

Also if you're willing to write off the cost of a cheap set of 100w panels - you could always sell a middle of the road set of 200w panels to someone here and "lose" the same amount of money but have a lot less battery anxiety and enjoy the event?
 
Is add an inline 15a fuse on the battery POS clamp.

As the Dokios normally come un fused at the battery connection point.
So this is where my confusion comes in lol. Salty spuds gives me the OK, but then mention re fuse

Sorry Dellmassive slightly confused on your first sentence - not quite following...
 
See you there! Have you considered borrowing or buying (secondhand off marketplace) a second battery? More reliable power than solar that may give you next to nothing if when it’s cloudy. Just swap batteries over when the first is getting low. Hand back or resell when you return.
My battery is all neatly tucked under the drivers seat - not sure how much of FAFF it is to start swapping etc - I am really useless at these things lol!
 
So this is where my confusion comes in lol. Salty spuds gives me the OK, but then mention re fuse

Sorry Dellmassive slightly confused on your first sentence - not quite following...
Basically, that panel is fine but you might want to add a fuse on the positive cable next to the battery connection as it comes unfused.


Also, be aware of the limitations of a 100w panel with a PWM controller. The specs say 4.4a max charge rate which you'll only realistically get on a full sunny day at midday. You fridge, if it's 25 degrees, might be using 1-2Ah per hour, and the panel might put back in 4Ah per hour, at very most.

How long have you gotten with your 110Ah battery on previous trips?
 
Just to clarify. ..

Yes you can just clip the leads into the battery and it will work.

But...

The Dokios being cheap kits are a bit lacking in places .. mainly a safety fuse on the battery connection.

We've already had a member on here nearly set fire to his van due to leaving the Dokio kit half connected.... The wire melted and burned making a right mess.

So, what I'm suggesting is to add an inline fuse to that kit for safety. ..


...





....
Screenshot_20240528_145520_Amazon Shopping.jpg
.
...


Or even better connect a dedicated quick disconnect fused solar point, as a fly lead.
 
Basically, that panel is fine but you might want to add a fuse on the positive cable next to the battery connection as it comes unfused.


Also, be aware of the limitations of a 100w panel with a PWM controller. The specs say 4.4a max charge rate which you'll only realistically get on a full sunny day at midday. You fridge, if it's 25 obviouslydegrees, might be using 1-2Ah per hour, and the panel might put back in 4Ah per hour, at very most.

How long have you gotten with your 110Ah battery on previous trips?
Thanks - on previous trips always been on hook up - battery was replaced last year so should be in good order but obviously can only do so much

Was just after a cheap and cheerful solution - but as always in reality doesn't exist
 
Just to clarify. ..

Yes you can just clip the leads into the battery and it will work.

But...

The Dokios being cheap kits are a bit lacking in places .. mainly a safety fuse on the battery connection.

We've already had a member on here nearly set fire to his van due to leaving the Dokio kit half connected.... The wire melted and burned making a right mess.

So, what I'm suggesting is to add an inline fuse to that kit for safety. ..


...





....
View attachment 243137
.
...


Or even better connect a dedicated quick disconnect fused solar point, as a fly lead.
Thanks super helpful as always, think I'm following

When I started looking had this worry of buying cheap and with it being electrical catching fire - now thinking bad idea. Will keep looking
 
The Dokio kits are fine...

I've tested the 100w and 200w kits and found them too be a good starter kit.

The only issue was a lack of main fuse.... Which is super easy to add yourself. (Just cut the red wire a few inches from the clamp and splice in a 15A fuse like above).


Checkout the solar stuff over here:




.
 
The Dokio kits are fine...

I've tested the 100w and 200w kits and found them too be a good starter kit.

The only issue was a lack of main fuse.... Which is super easy to add yourself. (Just cut the red wire a few inches from the clamp and splice in a 15A fuse like above).


Checkout the solar stuff over here:




.
I'd checked out that post but just wanted to be 100% sure

@Dellmassive - hopefully final query - what are the 100/200w brands that have a main fuse - looking on Amazon isn't clear which ones do

Get super easy to do, but would never forgive myself if managed to do even simplest thing wrong and return to a smouldering mess

Cheers
 
i have the 100w Renogy Suitcase, which had a fuse on the battery clip.

it come with crock leads and a basic controller, but i swapped out the controller for a victron and swapped the crock leads out for a fused anderson conector directly conected to the battery..


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1716967519698.png



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here is mine. . .



1716967589204.png


it come with a different controller back then. . .


1716967625175.png


but come with a fuse, that you can see here. . .

1716967713068.png


.
 
here is the 120w kit:



1716968058175.png


again its fused. . .


1716968084186.png


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+++
 
and heres my favourite kit. . . . the awsome 200w Renogy suitcase. ( i have two of them now for 400W mobile )





1716968284008.png1716968291543.png



fused here . . .

1716968318134.png


...





and the second newer version:





1716968371619.png1716968395972.png1716968383112.png


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+++


1716968452330.png



*
 
everything you need to know is here,

so get a cup of tea and have read. . . . . there's even a video for you to watch explaining things.





1716968635949.png
 
@Dellmassive - per above you were massively helpful - I have ploughed my way through your post - just got one query - and apols if really dumb question

Attached are a couple of pics from my leisure battery - theory is just connect crocodile clips running from the controller to the terminals on leisure battery - i.e. the gold terminals?? But per pics attached terminals seem to have the silver clamp around them - so now a little unsure..? Or have I got it completely wrong!?

There's some really good prices on Dokio ones at the mo - but appreciate needs to be fused, so would likely order something like the Renogy just to eliminate any risk!

Thanks in advance, Phil.

Leisure Batt 2.jpg

Leisure Batt 1.jpg
 
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