Solar Panel no controller
- Thread starter secretK9agent
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- solar
If you're a smart alternator van you'll get a lot more benefit out of replacing the relay with a DC-DC, that really impacts your charging whereas there are other ways of solving topping up the starter.
My point about the Amber Valley is that the terminals and wires will be different to what we've discussed so make sure you're happy with what you see. On the plus point it does look like there are long tails on it already which might help.
No problem. If you did ever have the heater running while driving and DC-DC charging the Orion will simply throttle back to stay suitably cool (they run warm and throttle to keep temps in limits).
It’s tiny (smaller than a deck of cards) and you can just stick it anywhere in the space with 3m Command Tape, double sided Velcro or similar. You could even feed the cables over to the passenger seat and put it there if you really can’t find space. The is a channel that runs between the 2 seats and with a bit of patience you can feed cables through without lifting the carpet or seat bases.
You shouldn’t need one as long as the cables are fused at the end near the SB and end near the LB already - which they should. They should be 60a as per the Orion instructions.
Thank you, ordered!Your best bet to get a clearer picture as to what might be going on is to fit a BM2 battery monitor, they're cheap and cheerful but logging the battery state continuously tends to show if something odd is going on.
Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It --
Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It -- Part #1 Battery monitoring is a very important part of your 12v system . . . . whether its just the vans starter battery or your leisure setup keeping an eye on the power in your battery bank will keep you from breaking down and make sure your weekends...www.t6forum.com
Before it's even arrived van battery has died again (I think)
I have a video but can't seem to upload.
When I turn the key everything tries to start as if starting to drive - everything turns on and off erratically. If turning key once I can see this:
"Error power supply please visit workshop"
If I just turn key once without the steps to drive my halo reads as 13.1v
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You can't upload directly, you need to upload to YouTube/Vimeo etc and then embed the share link in the post here using the toolbar
Ideally you need to get a voltage reading as direct as you can from the battery. It could be a dying battery, it could be a fault in some other high draw system that's drawing exceptional current or it could be an issue with the various load shedding relays not working correctly during the ignition cycle.
I take it that the rapid flashing of the digital dash and head unit with the ignition on is not a camera effect (unlike the slight refresh shimmer on the digital dash with it off)?
That looks like some fairly wild voltage fluctuations, but doesn't seem to be enough to reboot the head unit for instance?
I think there is a voltage stabiliser to supply the dash as part of the start/stop system, I wonder if that might be the common system involved here?
See this post from n10n
Deeper dive into these fault codes
Hi. For the year I’ve had this T6, there have always been two two faults codes from Carista: 05273 05459 The van runs and starts like a dream. @mmi rightly suggested this: Carista might have padded the fault codes by leading zeros thus turning the actual codes to something different. I would...
Thanks so much.See this post from n10n
Deeper dive into these fault codes
Hi. For the year I’ve had this T6, there have always been two two faults codes from Carista: 05273 05459 The van runs and starts like a dream. @mmi rightly suggested this: Carista might have padded the fault codes by leading zeros thus turning the actual codes to something different. I would...
The convertors have agreed to take it back tomorrow to investigate - it's a 3hr trek so here's hoping the sort this once and for all
That flicking is actually what I see as such not an output of the recording
Not a lot of practical help yet beyond moral support and a virtual cup of tea I fear!
Good luck with the converters, it does feel like there is some pre existing issue that caused the starter battery to be replaced in the first place. Replacing the battery is a good place to start but if you're still having issues it needs another look as that's starting to suggest the battery was a symptom not a cause.
Good luck with the converters, it does feel like there is some pre existing issue that caused the starter battery to be replaced in the first place. Replacing the battery is a good place to start but if you're still having issues it needs another look as that's starting to suggest the battery was a symptom not a cause.
Daft question (no rush as heading maiden voyage to France with fam in van) but planning continues.
I have the Victron Dc to Dc, ready to go in. Do I still need the Ablemail, reading again through dellmassive’s huge repository of stuff, I can’t work out if Dc to Dc replacing the SCR does the job of the Ablemail trickle charger? Or do they do diff jobs and thus I will need both?
Many thanks for any slow (or swift) responses
I have the Victron Dc to Dc, ready to go in. Do I still need the Ablemail, reading again through dellmassive’s huge repository of stuff, I can’t work out if Dc to Dc replacing the SCR does the job of the Ablemail trickle charger? Or do they do diff jobs and thus I will need both?
Many thanks for any slow (or swift) responses
The Victron DC-DC has just one job - charge the leisure battery from the starter battery/alternator.Daft question (no rush as heading maiden voyage to France with fam in van) but planning continues.
I have the Victron Dc to Dc, ready to go in. Do I still need the Ablemail, reading again through dellmassive’s huge repository of stuff, I can’t work out if Dc to Dc replacing the SCR does the job of the Ablemail trickle charger? Or do they do diff jobs and thus I will need both?
Many thanks for any slow (or swift) responses
The Ablemail AMT12-2 takes a small amount of charge from the leisure battery (either constantly or only when it's receiving a charge from solar) to keep the starter battery topped up and at a constant 12.3v.
Some all in one units have the ability to trickle charge the starter battery but no Victron DC-DC does so if you want to keep your starter battery topped up, you'll need the Ablemail AMT12-2.
