Propex HS2000 and it’s feed voltage..

[LWanddog]

I’ve been having the same issue, but even without the engine turned on. Mine was fitted by Propex in July this year.

I tried changing the set up today so that the wires are not connected to the leisure battery anymore, but rather coming off the ‘load’ from the MPPT solar charger. The solar charger should limit the voltage - at least that was my theory. This had no effect though, the same issue came up again after a few minutes - and that was without turning the engine on. The solar panels were probably kicking out too much juice.

I rang the guys at Propex and they suggested I check the battery in case it was getting too low. Did that, but battery was holding its charge fine, and not dipping below 12.5 when the heater was turned on. It is quite a small battery though, so perhaps a bigger one would reduce the risk of voltage dropping too much?

I’m going to try fitting an isolator switch as others have described, even if it just means it is easier to reset when it happens again. Where do you put the switch - on the positive connecting to the battery(or solar charger in my case)?

 

[DaveyB]

I’ve been having the same issue, but even without the engine turned on. Mine was fitted by Propex in July this year.

I tried changing the set up today so that the wires are not connected to the leisure battery anymore, but rather coming off the ‘load’ from the MPPT solar charger. The solar charger should limit the voltage - at least that was my theory. This had no effect though, the same issue came up again after a few minutes - and that was without turning the engine on. The solar panels were probably kicking out too much juice.

I rang the guys at Propex and they suggested I check the battery in case it was getting too low. Did that, but battery was holding its charge fine, and not dipping below 12.5 when the heater was turned on. It is quite a small battery though, so perhaps a bigger one would reduce the risk of voltage dropping too much?

I’m going to try fitting an isolator switch as others have described, even if it just means it is easier to reset when it happens again. Where do you put the switch - on the positive connecting to the battery(or solar charger in my case)?

Mine is on the positive, between the fuse and the heater.

 

[Pete C]

Yes, put it in line with the positive lead.

Seems odd that it is still having issues. Are you able to monitor the voltage to see if it is going too high when charging ?

Pete

 

[Dale]

Still not had any issues with my Propex installtion of heater?

 

[Andrew Wilkinson]

I fitted the isolator switch this weekend and it seems to have done the job nicely. Straightforward fix to a problem which had been bugging me, thanks guys.

 

[DaveyB]

I fitted the isolator switch this weekend and it seems to have done the job nicely. Straightforward fix to a problem which had been bugging me, thanks guys.

Well played. Glad that it is sorted. What annoys me the most though is that I have told Propex about this and it being particular to T6’s, which they fit plenty of units into. But will they put an isolator in as part of the install?????!!!!!!!

 

[Dale]

Still not had any problem with mine (works a treat)? It seems it's only some (for some reason) this problem occurs?

 

[MEX72]

Just noticed this thread too. I'm having the exact same bother, red flashing light from propex control unit. We've just always reset this ourselves by turning the switch on/off 3 times to reset the light. I wouldn't have the foggiest where to start regarding fitting an isolator myself, probably blow myself up! Is this the sort of job that would be cheap enough to get a sparky do for me?

 

[DaveyB]

Just noticed this thread too. I'm having the exact same bother, red flashing light from propex control unit. We've just always reset this ourselves by turning the switch on/off 3 times to reset the light. I wouldn't have the foggiest where to start regarding fitting an isolator myself, probably blow myself up! Is this the sort of job that would be cheap enough to get a sparky do for me?

Yes, any vehicle electrician could do it. It’s not a long job, just depends on where your leisure electrics fuse box is mounted (assuming that is where your heater takes its feed from) and where you want the switch.

 

[MEX72]

Yes, any vehicle electrician could do it. It’s not a long job, just depends on where your leisure electrics fuse box is mounted (assuming that is where your heater takes its feed from) and where you want the switch.

Thanks @DaveyB I'll definitely do that then.

 

[Ads_Essex]

.. the only downside would be if you needed to run the engine while camping, because if it was cold, the heater would be offline while the engine was on??

Does anyone know whether this device, wired in between the Propex and the leisure-battery, would allow me to have the heater on whilst the engine is running and not go in to fault mode?

 

[xpfloyd]

Need a little help guys if possible. I have now fitted my LPG tank at the rear of the van (usual spot just in front of the spare wheel). I have also fitted the heater to the underside using a custom bracket (finished this today). I was planning on fitting the pigtail and regulator into position today and cant work out where the best place for it is. Worried about the proximity to the exhaust as the pigtail passes it.

Could someone kindly post a photo showing that area so that I can see where the regulator lives?

Thanks in advance

 

[xpfloyd]

Just noticed this text in the Propex manual - "Warning - The applience must not be supplied through an external switching device, such as a timer, or a circuit that is regularly switched. This is to avoid a inadvertent resetting of the thermal cutout"

Does this suggest we shouldnt fit via a switch?

 

[Pete C]

I think this means don’t fit a switch which could turn the heater off when it isn’t expecting it.

Ours is fitted with a separate isolating switch. If we turned this to off when the heater was running flat out, then it could cause the heater to trip its over temperature circuit/sensor, as it has not been allowed to do its usual cool down procedure. If you turn the heater off with its own switch, then it turns the flame off, but keeps the fan running for a couple of minutes to cool down the internals properly. Only then do we turn our isolating switch off.

If it had a timer switch or similar then you don’t know at what point in the heating cycle it could be turned off.

Bottom line - never turn the heater off with the isolating switch. Turn it off at its own controller, then when it has finished the cool down cycle, turn it off with your isolating switch.

Pete

 

[xpfloyd]

Makes sense Pete. Need to try and explain that to the mrs now...

 

[Pete C]

Makes sense Pete. Need to try and explain that to the mrs now...

Been there, done that. Just tell her to only touch the thermostat. On second thoughts ....

Pete

 

[Ads_Essex]

I’ve just read a thread on a Facebook forum where a poster states he’s adjusted his B2B output to 14.5v max and, as a result, his Propex no longer does in to error mode (when the engine is running).

 

[xpfloyd]

I wonder if it depends on the model of B2B too as some people are not getting the issue and others are

 

[xpfloyd]

Finally finished my LPG and propex install today. I fitted a gas switch inside the van that powers the cut off solenoid. I filled the LPG up (£8.08 for full tank! Superb) and can now light my hob. The propex isn’t working though

Im getting 4 flashes which according to the propex site is a combustion air fault. Can’t work out what’s wrong so will have to phone them on Monday. I increased the exhaust to 2m and kept the air intake the 0.75m it was supplied. I was told on the phone by propex that this is fine when I ordered the 2m exhaust. I’m thinking this might be the issue somehow

 

[Pete C]

Have you reset it and tried again ?
I had this after not using it for some time.

Pete