Propex HS2000 and it’s feed voltage..
- Thread starter DaveyB
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- heatsource hs2000 propex
When the heater first turns on it just circulates air as it gets itself ready. When it ignites, that is when the green light illuminates.
Mine has a 90deg isolator valve on the gas pipe just before the heater, which Propex put in as part of the build.
They will have dealers around the country as they do send their products out.
Mine has a 90deg isolator valve on the gas pipe just before the heater, which Propex put in as part of the build.
They will have dealers around the country as they do send their products out.
Thanks guys. Puts my mind at ease a bit with the green light. I checked the propex site there and they have a distributer about 20 mins from me so I have emailed them to ask if they could have a look. Ill still phone Propex too in the morning. Wish I had just paid someone to install this!!
Bit of forward progress. Called Propex and they informed me about a reset button on the unit itself just above where the electrical connector plugs in. I hadn’t noticed this previously. This has cleared the solid red light fault and it’s no longer bricked. I’m now getting a combustion error but Propex have said the air inlet and exhaust pipes should be between 150mm and 300mm apart, whereas mine are about 1m apart. When I get home tonight I I’ll move them closer together and then hopefully I will get heat
Yep. The thermostat is related to the temp of the environment and not how hot you want the air coming from the heater.
No probs, thanks @DaveyB . Maybe I was just expecting too much. I had it in my head the heat would be so hot I wouldnt be able to hold my hand in the air as it came out the vent. I had it on for about 30 mins there and the van was heating up nicely so its probably fine. It is mighty cold here just now
I know what you mean. I was in -7 in mine last weekend and the heater just tickles away until it has warmed the volume of air in the van.
Recently had a Propex fitted at Ringwood.
When I was installing some Caravelle step-lights I took the step off and saw this
Is this just me being picky or should there be more rustproofing around this hole?
And that amount of swarf.. it left me wondering if they just drilled straight through the plastic step-liner without removing it first..!
When I was installing some Caravelle step-lights I took the step off and saw this
Is this just me being picky or should there be more rustproofing around this hole?
And that amount of swarf.. it left me wondering if they just drilled straight through the plastic step-liner without removing it first..!
I drilled through the plastic and metal without removing the plastic on mine. It seemed like the safest way to ensure the holes lined up as you can’t drill from the inside out through the plastic once you have the metal drilled. I suppose you could drill a pilot hole then remove the plastic but I didn’t bother
To be fair, that’d make sense - but I would remove the step afterwards and clean up. I know swarf is a bugger and you keep finding it for ages afterwards.. did yours look like this or was it a lot worse (in terms of swarf)?
There is some, but not much at all. The hole under the drivers’ seat where the hot air vent enters doesn’t have a great deal on it, either.
I had a similar amount of swarf to clean up
After changing my DC-DC settings to 14.5v max, my Propex still went in to fault mode after a few minutes driving.
I think I have solved this issue by fitting a 12v regulator to both sides of the heater - the thermostat side (where it’s fused) and the heater side (where it’s connected straight to the leisure battery). Now I can have the heater running without it going in to fault mode.
I say “think” because now I’ve had another fault pop up - inlet/outlet blocked!
The van has sat at the joiner’s for a while and I wondered if some spiders had crawled up there and blocked it. But it runs fine when stationary, so am now thinking that the fault is caused by air pressure: when I drive, I’m thinking the inlet can’t get air in to the heater as easily as it wants to (it’s aimed towards the rear) thus goes in to fault mode? I’ll keep testing.
I think I have solved this issue by fitting a 12v regulator to both sides of the heater - the thermostat side (where it’s fused) and the heater side (where it’s connected straight to the leisure battery). Now I can have the heater running without it going in to fault mode.
I say “think” because now I’ve had another fault pop up - inlet/outlet blocked!
The van has sat at the joiner’s for a while and I wondered if some spiders had crawled up there and blocked it. But it runs fine when stationary, so am now thinking that the fault is caused by air pressure: when I drive, I’m thinking the inlet can’t get air in to the heater as easily as it wants to (it’s aimed towards the rear) thus goes in to fault mode? I’ll keep testing.
Occasionally, yes - cold mornings it’ll heat the van quicker than the heater will, if it’s very cold and passengers in the rear can’t feel the heat from the front (which is often too hot for the front occupants) or just before stopping somewhere to set up.
That or running it with the engine on, to give the leisure battery a boost.
