Should I apply Body Corrosion Inhibitor?
better safe than sorry
Looked back through my purchases spreadsheet and it appears I purchased a 5L can from Middleton Motor panels in Gloucester. This was a clear, cold cavity wax. does not smell like waxoil or dinatrol. It is basically a trade product and the same as the clear stuff manufacturers use.
Graeme Mckay
Member
I did 2 defenders with waxoyl and a brush and eventually sold them on. My current D2 I was going to have professionally done and never got around to it. Chassis is now gubbed. Was thinking of doing the van as I aim to keep it for a long time. I'll probably use waxoyl and a brush again. Not a pleasant job.
You can get a spray for it, used on on my old Mini though not the most pleaset of jobs as the can needs a little heat to make the waxoil spray better
Thinking of getting the van corrosion treated at a place near us that does Dinitrol treatment.
Underbody panels off, underseal treatment and cavity wax. Any corrosion found will be treated with rust converter and protected. Includes a check and touch up in 12 months.
My van is a 2016 and has no corrosion yet but that’s the point right?
I am a windsurfer and the van is going to be parked in heavy salt spray as a matter of course.
Anybody had this done before and if so what did you think?
Underbody panels off, underseal treatment and cavity wax. Any corrosion found will be treated with rust converter and protected. Includes a check and touch up in 12 months.
My van is a 2016 and has no corrosion yet but that’s the point right?
I am a windsurfer and the van is going to be parked in heavy salt spray as a matter of course.
Anybody had this done before and if so what did you think?
Understood.
This is a long term project van for me so am looking to the future, 20 years maybe.
My friends T4 was also a long term windsurfing van and eventually fell apart with ferrous moth disease.
Do you think the T6 will be much better than the T4?
I am not knocking the T6, really enjoying it and having had two Fiat Ducato campers in the past I am pretty confident that it will outlast those at the beach. My Murvi literally fell apart underneath me
This is a long term project van for me so am looking to the future, 20 years maybe.
My friends T4 was also a long term windsurfing van and eventually fell apart with ferrous moth disease.
Do you think the T6 will be much better than the T4?
I am not knocking the T6, really enjoying it and having had two Fiat Ducato campers in the past I am pretty confident that it will outlast those at the beach. My Murvi literally fell apart underneath me
I upgraded my 02 plate t4 with 350k on the clock and still going strong....
I willbe amazed if my 17 t6 lasts that long
I've just done the underside of mine with Bilt Hamber Dynax, a proper wax application gun (powered by my compressor) has made doing it myself a breeze.
I've got one of those, they are great.
What dinitrol will they be using? AV5, 20 or 30? Be aware it does wash off quite easily
It’s a place on the Dinitrol application list and having spoken to the owner at some length he sounds like he knows his stuff.
He will remove the plastic panels underneath, give it proper steam clean and dry out, treat any corrosion found and then treat the underside and cavities. He takes photos of all stages of the process for record keeping and in a year will inspect and top up the treatment inclusive of the first treatment cost. Hopefully there will be no corrosion to treat on a low mileage 2016 T32. It’s a LWB and he has quoted £450. It’s seems a lot but the Dinitrol is not cheap and he will do it on a proper lift so it’s always going to be better than trying to do it on the drive. It’s takes a few days as well so that it can dry out properly.
Where I windsurf the wind is onshore and very often before driving away you have to use the screen wash as there is so much salt on the front of the van you literally can’t see out of the windscreen. Hope this will help it last a little longer along with washing regularly. It’s booked in for the end of the month. If anyone is interested I will report back and post some after photos. Although guess we will have to wait 10 years before judging if it was worth doing or not.
He will remove the plastic panels underneath, give it proper steam clean and dry out, treat any corrosion found and then treat the underside and cavities. He takes photos of all stages of the process for record keeping and in a year will inspect and top up the treatment inclusive of the first treatment cost. Hopefully there will be no corrosion to treat on a low mileage 2016 T32. It’s a LWB and he has quoted £450. It’s seems a lot but the Dinitrol is not cheap and he will do it on a proper lift so it’s always going to be better than trying to do it on the drive. It’s takes a few days as well so that it can dry out properly.
Where I windsurf the wind is onshore and very often before driving away you have to use the screen wash as there is so much salt on the front of the van you literally can’t see out of the windscreen. Hope this will help it last a little longer along with washing regularly. It’s booked in for the end of the month. If anyone is interested I will report back and post some after photos. Although guess we will have to wait 10 years before judging if it was worth doing or not.
Bilt Hamber did a test of their product against a few others with the University of Hertfordshire.
Results here http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf
Results here http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf
Interesting test @Grim Reaper thanks for the link.
The BH product did well, although I think the Dinitrol performed pretty well even though it graded fourth in the conclusion. Both appeared to be much better than Waxoyl.
Couple of things I think are important. Reapplication and regular maintenance of whatever it is you put on to stop the corrosion, paint, wax or grease all depend on maintaining surface integrity and keeping the atmosphere from the steel.
And although the test looks fine, well written and presented a rational enquiring mind would have to wonder about the test sponsors winning the test?
The BH product did well, although I think the Dinitrol performed pretty well even though it graded fourth in the conclusion. Both appeared to be much better than Waxoyl.
Couple of things I think are important. Reapplication and regular maintenance of whatever it is you put on to stop the corrosion, paint, wax or grease all depend on maintaining surface integrity and keeping the atmosphere from the steel.
And although the test looks fine, well written and presented a rational enquiring mind would have to wonder about the test sponsors winning the test?
When having work done on my suspension a couple of months ago mechanic said he was surprised with the rust underneath in places round the bolts. I have only spent a couple of weekends by the coast and van is 2017. I was quite surprised myself!
Be great if someone could tell me the best stuff to coat up underneath with please?
Be great if someone could tell me the best stuff to coat up underneath with please?
There are several good products around - Wurth, Bilt Hamber and dinitrol are my choices. Most do aerosol cans (with 600mm nozzels for box sections) and 5L drums to use in a spray gun.
I need to do one of the fleet (2003 car) and am looking at the bilt stuff as recommended by a friend who has a classic mini. Seems to be one type for cavities and another for exposed panels.
Ian
I need to do one of the fleet (2003 car) and am looking at the bilt stuff as recommended by a friend who has a classic mini. Seems to be one type for cavities and another for exposed panels.
Ian
Great stuff Ian
