Should I apply Body Corrosion Inhibitor?

[bullracing]

I've spend a lot of time under both my T5 and T6 adding numerous bits and bobs to both. The T6 is 100% of less quality then my 2005.
The wax coating on my T6 is incredibly thin, its there dont get me wrong but on my T5 it was silly thick, pretty sure I could say it was atleast 3-5mm thick.
The other thing I noticed was the underpanels although almost the same between the T5 and T6 they are different and the T6 has more openings. The exhaust under covers are also 1-2mm on the T6 compared with the thick 5-6mm exhaust undercovers on the T6. That wont help with the rust but it will help with the heat and noise from the exhaust.

It all comes down to saving money with these companies and this is showing of the pure greed from the MD's, when people start to cotten on that the T6 is a bag of rust in a few years they will regret trying to save money.

I love my T6 BUT when it comes to replacing it, I will be going backwards not forwards next time. I cant comment on the T5.1s as I went straight from a T5 2005 to T6 2016. Im sorry to all those T6 lovers but I will always say it how it is as I am shocked I have had to undercoat my 2016 T6 and I have to take it in to have a rust spot repaired..... again.

 

[czmate1999]

hmmm, have a new T6, is this worth considering (undercoating)? how long does it last?

 

[DaveyB]

hmmm, have a new T6, is this worth considering (undercoating)? how long does it last?

Nothing wrong with adding a good coat of something every couple of years.
Back in the day of my RS Turbo Escort and Sapphire RS Cosworth I would do an annual waxoyl treatment across the underside, remove arch liners and get in there, as well as remove inner trim panels and fill every nook and cranny.
Sounds like I need to return to the days of the early 90’s if the T6 is going to turn out to be as delicate as the “Ford” steel of that era.

 

[czmate1999]

Probably worth me waiting a couple of years, once the existing wax wears away...

 

[Mooncat]

Nothing wrong with adding a good coat of something every couple of years.
Back in the day of my RS Turbo Escort and Sapphire RS Cosworth I would do an annual waxoyl treatment across the underside, remove arch liners and get in there, as well as remove inner trim panels and fill every nook and cranny.
Sounds like I need to return to the days of the early 90’s if the T6 is going to turn out to be as delicate as the “Ford” steel of that era.

Ignore what it says on the Waxoyl tin about neutralising the existing rust, you need a properly prepared surface rather than the usual trick of just blasting waxoyl over the top of a rusty panel and wonder why it's coming through a year later. I did under-sealing of my Fiat X1/9 with Tetroseal back in the 90's and it took me about 6 months to do because of the removal of parts, preparation of the steel, red oxide primer and then the Tetroseal and this was applied in dry, low humidity conditions so no moisture was trapped. I still have the vehicle and no rust has come through in 23 years which is remarkable for an 80s Fiat!

i think people are getting the wrong end of the stick here with my original post..
its the bottom wish bones arms front and rear etc thats going rusty Not the bodywork
the parts open to the elements legs,bolts,brackets Nothing under the plastic trays just stuff you can see

But as T6 dork states, this is not what he's commenting on, our T6 bodies have prepared steel and a nice thick coating of wax............it's the bolt on components and brackets that probably just have a single pass of satin black top coat that are rusting. The first thing I do when getting a new vehicle home is get it over the inspection pit and check the under body rust protection. Edges of panels and resistance welds usually get a layer of Galvafroid as that's what usually starts rusting first. In the case of my T6, I've not applied anything as it has the best under body protection of any commercial vehicle I've owned.

 

[Stigofthedub]

My dad waxoiled his t25 annually for the first 10 years or so while he could. I inherited it and eventually sold it on. The only rusty bit was the front valance which is typical of those vans, the rest was immaculate.
I do all my car's with waxoil but also supertrol the bolts and seams. This stuff is thin as thinners, black in colour, but sets like grease, so sucks around threads and into seams by capillary action then sets. Absolutely sh1t hot stuff. Used to be in accessory shops, now only mail order. Aerosol or brush on, I have both.

 

[Mocko1962]

I've just fitted an undergrad for these very reasons as well as exposed alternator etc... btw fixing holes on the wishbones all rusty and difficult for bolts to engage and thread right up. Why o why have VW not fitted these as standard across all the range 56gbp on eBay... after all they must want longevity and repeat custom ... this is also my first VW trendline 2017 converted and up to now jury is out ... I run a 5 series as day car obviously soundproofing and rust prevention features in engine bay standard

 

[Mocko1962]

UNDERTRAY

 

[andys]

UNDERTRAY

Though strapping a student underneath to protect the van is not a bad idea

 

[Paynewright]

My dad waxoiled his t25 annually for the first 10 years or so while he could. I inherited it and eventually sold it on. The only rusty bit was the front valance which is typical of those vans, the rest was immaculate.
I do all my car's with waxoil but also supertrol the bolts and seams. This stuff is thin as thinners, black in colour, but sets like grease, so sucks around threads and into seams by capillary action then sets. Absolutely sh1t hot stuff. Used to be in accessory shops, now only mail order. Aerosol or brush on, I have both.

I always put the waxoil tin of very hot water first - makes it nice and runny so it gets everywhere!

Its basic stuff like running the hose around the edge of the wheel arches in the spring to wash out the salt laden mud that helps.

Ian

 

[Spaghetti]

I always put the waxoil tin of very hot water first - makes it nice and runny so it gets everywhere!

Its basic stuff like running the hose around the edge of the wheel arches in the spring to wash out the salt laden mud that helps.

Ian

Was at the coast yesterday and got underneath today with the pressure washer and some car detergent, then a rinse today.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Had my 2016 4Motion Dinitrol treated when I bought it last May. Cost was £600 for all the underpanels to be removed and Dinitrol applied in all the cavities and panels. All the running gear was also treated and is now black with wax.
One of the downsides is if you need to work on it you will get the black stuff pretty much all over you.
But it’s worth it to me as the van is parked at the beach for long periods in heavy onshore salt spray while I spend time windsurfing. Before driving off I usually have to wash the screen as you can’t see out for the salt deposits.
I try to wash and rinse it after each session but it’s not always possible. And in any case at this time of year the roads up here are covered in salt anyway.
Pretty sure VW bean counters will have just the right amount of protection on the van to clear the bodywork warranty liability and nothing more.

 

[jamiez]

Does anybody bother to waxoyl the bottom of the side panels and tailgate before insulating

 

[Superowls]

Mine already had some waxoyl or similar at the bottoms of the cavities from factory when I sound proofed and insulated

 

[DXX]

It’s a galvanised body, my 20 year old Audi A4 also has a galvanised body and zero rust.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Yes, I sprayed some Bilt Hamber Dynax into my cavities before filling them with insulation (after sticking dodo mat and thermal mat to the outer skin)
Anything to stop the tin worm getting a hold helps

 

[jamiez]

Yes, I sprayed some Bilt Hamber Dynax into my cavities before filling them with insulation (after sticking dodo mat and thermal mat to the outer skin)
Anything to stop the tin worm getting a hold helps

I have not removed the panels yet to have a look , but I think I will put a bit in just for peace mind.

 

[Leehoops]

OK I'm wondering if anyone has used lanoguard for protecting underneath their van ? , I have bought an undertray and would like to protect all the painted areas under the van ,
Thanks

 

[VanDamMan]

OK I'm wondering if anyone has used lanoguard for protecting underneath their van ? , I have bought an undertray and would like to protect all the painted areas under the van ,
Thanks

I’ve used the Lanoguard Grease it’s great stuff and it’s silicone free so should be good under the van ...if it’s good for the marine world it’s good for me

 

[Leehoops]

That sounds good it certainly can't do any harm anyway so I think il givebit a go