Sound-deadening and Thermal Insulation of Cab

[Grim Reaper]

You'll have to take both seats out to remove the cab area floor covering (at least I did removing the rubber floor to sound deaden mine) plus the lower part of the gearstick tower as the flooring goes up underneath it as well.
You will likely only be able to fit sound deadening beneath the existing flooring, there's not enough room for anything else if you want to get the flooring to fit again.
The four round black things with bolts sticking out of them are the front seat mounts in this picture.

 

[Grim Reaper]

This is the interior once the cab flooring has been refitted after the sound deadening has been installed and I've moved on to do the rear.

 

[Paynewright]

This is the interior once the cab flooring has been refitted after the sound deadening has been installed and I've moved on to do the rear.
View attachment 73713

my job next week - just got two 50 sheet packs of dodo mat!

Going to do a DB sound test on the phone before and after!

Ian

 

[Grim Reaper]

I found the trim tools with the curved ends on to be very useful when trying to get the mat to go into the contours.

 

[DXX]

Yes do as much as you can. And in the scuttle under the bonnet and fit the all important dust seals. It will make such a difference.

I’m going to sound deaden the scuttle next, I was planning on using 4mm Silent Coat Extra and 30mm Silent Coat Sound Buffler.
Do you reckon there is enough space for 30mm foam?
What products do you use in this area?
Thanks

 

[DXX]

Won't make very minimal difference. You better off using closed cell foam under the step.

Just done both front step recesses with Dynamat Xtreme and used 10mm self adhesive foam on the steps where possible. It’s a relatively slow job filling the honeycombed area with foam but probably worth it.
The B Pillar lower trim can stay in place, just a case of flexing the bottom forward corner of the B Pillar trim away from the door seal to separate it from the step clip.

 

[Ann3x]

Just done both front step recesses with Dynamat Xtreme and used 10mm self adhesive foam on the steps where possible. It’s a relatively slow job filling the honeycombed area with foam but probably worth it.
The B Pillar lower trim can stay in place, just a case of flexing the bottom forward corner of the B Pillar trim away from the door seal to separate it from the step clip.

Tons of room in the scuttle. Just dont foul the wiper mech.

I did mine with MLV and silentcoat on the base, silentcoat + 10mm dodo on cab facing surfaces.

Not sure if it made much diff tbh! But hey.

 

[vwski]

Yes do as much as you can. And in the scuttle under the bonnet and fit the all important dust seals. It will make such a difference.

Hi Oli, What are the 'all important dust seals' please? Do you do that on all vans? Thanks!

 

[BognorMotors]

Yes. Seals on the back of the front doors. Used to be a VW option but dropped now. Helps massively with wind noise and also makes the doors shut nicely.

 

[Chris Joyce]

I’ve never used silent coat before but would like to do the cab floor area to try and cut some road noise down.

how much is needed just for cab floor, arches and step areas?

best place to source?

thanks

 

[The Bear78]

I've always bought mine from Deadening.co.uk and the best value deals seem to be the multi packs which are typically 20 or 40 sheets (for the 2mm version).
Workout the area you intend to cover and get the next size pack up. You'll always need more and can always find somewhere to put it.
Their website sells bundle deals, either just Silent Coat or combined with sound proofing foam such as Dodo mat. Some of these bundles are for particular vehicles but this is only based on quantities and can offer good discounts if they happen to contain just what you need. I think the first kit I bought was for a Land Rover 90 but it had the bits I needed.

 

[DXX]

Sound deadened the scuttle today with 2mm Silent Coat and 30mm Silent Coat Buffler foam.
It took 8 hours to strip out, clean, apply and rebuild. With the 30mm Buffler foam it just needed one small cut out for the wiper mechanism.
It’s made a big reduction in noise, probably as much as doing the doors.

 

[BognorMotors]

It’s a great upgrade the scuttle but 8 hours !

 

[DXX]

It’s a great upgrade the scuttle but 8 hours !

Four years of mud and leaves!

 

[Rg_]

How do you remove the handbrake section?

I know how to remove the seats and the bases.

Want to have full access to under the floor mat.

 

[The Bear78]

How do you remove the handbrake section?

I know how to remove the seats and the bases.

Want to have full access to under the floor mat.

Under the handbrake handle is a little clip. Push this in and wiggle the cover forward off the lever. The remaining panel and mechanism is obvious after that.

 

[Rg_]

Under the handbrake handle is a little clip. Push this in and wiggle the cover forward off the lever. The remaining panel and mechanism is obvious after that.

Thanks mate.

 

[Ads_Essex]

Thanks mate.

It can drop down under the van, so if you’re lowered and haven’t got the van on ramps you’ll want to stick some molegrips or similar on the cable.

 

[cfdave]

How hard is it to remove the front rubber flooring? I watched a video on fitting carpet. And most of the dash was removed?

 

[Ads_Essex]

How hard is it to remove the front rubber flooring? I watched a video on fitting carpet. And most of the dash was removed?

Easy, once the seat bases and handbrake cable are removed. It’s tucked under the steps and dash, and isn’t glued anywhere.