Split-Chargers & Bluemotion

Hi all, I've just got a new van its a T6,150bhp with adblue and have found this charger under the drivers seat. I've got a normal leisure battery 110Ah and this is the charger.
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Can i use this charger or am i best selling one or the other to make way for something more suitable?
Thanks Sam
 
Yes, he's deffinately wrong! The size of the DC-DC charger largely depends on what size battery you fit. Where are you going to put the battery? as this may limit the size.

Hi Travelvolts and sorry to jump in on the thread but I’m looking for some advice if you don’t mind. I while ago (we’re talking probably two years!) I bought a Ring DCCharge30 from you. At that stage my intention was full conversion with solar. However, things changed and I never got around to finishing it.

I’m about to sell the van but think the charger is going to be overkill for the simple 12v stuff I’ve installed (no solar either). All there is, is 3 x USB charge points, two 12v kitchen 10mm spot lights (kitchen plinth lights) and a string of LED’s in the roof lining (6 metre run). I’ve bought a 90ah leisure battery. Is there something else more suited than the bigger, bulkier Ring as effectively the van is a day van, or a weekender and the USB’s are for charging phones overnight And the 10mm spots reading lights (both supplies at the back of the van where the bed will be and the other USB by the table at the front).

As I say sorry to jump in.

Hi Travelvolts and sorry to jump in on the thread but I’m looking for some advice if you don’t mind. I while ago (we’re talking probably two years!) I bought a Ring DCCharge30 from you. At that stage my intention was full conversion with solar. However, things changed and I never got around to finishing it.

I’m about to sell the van but think the charger is going to be overkill for the simple 12v stuff I’ve installed (no solar either). All there is, is 3 x USB charge points, two 12v kitchen 10mm spot lights (kitchen plinth lights) and a string of LED’s in the roof lining (6 metre run). I’ve bought a 90ah leisure battery. Is there something else more suited than the bigger, bulkier Ring as effectively the van is a day van, or a weekender and the USB’s are for charging phones overnight And the 10mm spots reading lights (both supplies at the back of the van where the bed will be and the other USB by the table at the front).

As I say sorry to jump in.

(Would a simple trickle charger (eg Votronic) be more suited as it’s more suited for a couple of days away, and with the limited 12v supply needed?)
 
Has anyone with the VW second battery and relay found that the split charge relay is turned off when the main battery is fully charged?

I made a take off relay interface for a DCDC charger which works fine, but after a long time descending today my main battery was fully charged and then the DCDC charger stopped charging the leisure battery

IMG_20210330_205423.jpg

Screenshot_20210530-170906.jpg
 
these charts show that the OEM setup keep the charging relay connected all the time while the engine is running . . .


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and looking at that pic you have above, you have a quick fit Relay kit wired in . . . . that should be using the same OEM trigger.


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i would start by checking all your connections are good and tight and no fuses are melted or damaged,

including the grounds etc.

got a few more pics?



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these charts show that the OEM setup keep the charging relay connected all the time while the engine is running . . .
This is what I expected having read several threads, however as it is a Euro6D emissions level perhaps it has changed as they are constantly improving

When we get back I'll check to see exactly what is happening, for now I have put the original relay and fuse in.

The pic above has the additional OEM fuse holder I added, so I could fuse both sides of the DCDC charger - both of these are fine.
 
did you use the travelvolts kit:

"and looking at that pic you have above, you have a quick fit Relay kit wired in . . . . that should be using the same OEM trigger."

so the Renogy is getting the correct engine run signal / IGN feed.?

have you got some pics on the Renogy DC-DC conections?

and is that the BT-1 bluetooth connection to the app?


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edit:


what spec van?

is this a T6.1?


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post some BM2 readouts of this change . .

"When we get back I'll check to see exactly what is happening, for now I have put the original relay and fuse in."


if the BM2 shows the starter battery voltage (which will be up and down) then that would show the relay is engagerd.

you can force a high alternator voltage by turning on a high demand electricals.

ie headed seats , heated screen, AC. etc etc - that will cause around 14.2v + voltage or higher.

normal tickover and engine run will be low at 12.9v ish.

and around 13.2v ish when running small electrical loads.
 
Why not put a meter or test lamp on the trigger wire from the BCM and watch exactly when the relay is/should be activated? Basic good old fashioned tests can be much more reliable and informative than fancy Bluetooth monitors.
 
It's a T6 California Beach, one of the last ones to be made
I made the take off as I didn't want to cut the wiring whilst in warranty. You are correct, I used the OEM 12v trigger at the relay.
I am away at the moment camping without hookup, so don't have any test equipment, however the BM2 and fridge both said the leisure battery was low.
Here is today's log. I put the relay back in after the first spike when I saw it was no longer charging the leisure battery. We were driving on and off with multiple stops between 3pm and 8pm. I don't have a log of the starter battery, will probably buy another BM2 for that as they are really nice and the app works well (thanks for the tip @Dellmassive )

IMG_20210406_190110_copy_2029x1489.jpg

Screenshot_20210601-225437.jpg
 
Battery defo looks low SOC.

Got a few pics of the battery too.?

The Renogy 30A dc-dc should be trying to charge the leusure battery.... an AGM you say?

Remember you can add a solar panel to that charger.... Renogy have a deal on the 200w suitcase for £212 atm. (Need to check specs to confirm compatability).

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I solved the problem, the Renogy manual was incorrect (or my one is faulty). Only one of the ports of the ignition sense actually works. Swapped it over and it is now fine.

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Renogy had a typo in the early install guide.

they also come with a 2core cable . . . and green block.

this has been upgraded to a single red wire pre wired into the green block.







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I can get you a discount at Renogy United Kingdom





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