T6.1 diesel heater install
- Thread starter Cooper
- Start date
-
- Tags
- night heater t6.1
From what research I did there are 2 ways depending which model you have.
1) Drop the fuel tank off totally and remove the fuel sender unit, drill a hole and fit the heater diesel pick up pipe.
2) If you have T6.1 it may have the pickup already on the sender unit and you can cut the nipple off and the fuel connector snaps onto this. This way you do not have to remove the tank.
There may be other ways that i am not aware of but i did mine using option 2
Yes, see the page 1 of this thread, and there are photos of what the nipple looks like, and the connection you need for it.
T6.1 diesel heater install
Well 8pm on a Thursday is as good a time as any to start installing a night heater! Can anyone tell me where I need to drill the hole in this fuel sender for the stand pipe for the heater? It looks different to the one in my T6 which had a nice square to aim for.
mines a t5.1 so no nipple apparently.So I have made some progress and have a final question about where go through the floor with the hot air outlet.
Dropping the tank and connecting the fuel nipple was a straight forward job.
Next is mounting the bracket in place with rivet nuts and then the tricky part.
My plan is to drill trough the floor inside that square hole where people also go through the B pillar. I intend to come up next to the bench where the coin is.
Is this possible or is that somehow a stupid idea? I won't know until I start drilling a pilot hole what I find there.
Dropping the tank and connecting the fuel nipple was a straight forward job.
Next is mounting the bracket in place with rivet nuts and then the tricky part.
My plan is to drill trough the floor inside that square hole where people also go through the B pillar. I intend to come up next to the bench where the coin is.
Is this possible or is that somehow a stupid idea? I won't know until I start drilling a pilot hole what I find there.
You'll find a couple of wires where the coin is under the carpet. Set Belt Tensioner wires if I recall!
Thanks for the heads up.
David Maloney
New Member
Hi, I don't want to buy my heater just yet as I'm still converting & wouldn't need to use it until later this year but I'm soon to be dropping the fuel tank enough to remove my Kombi seat brackets (btw anyone know the size of a suitable bolt to fill these holes back up please?)
As I have a 6.1, if I do see the nipple at this point it would make sense to fit what I can then? I can see I need the elbow connector but what else could I connect to that in order to just carry on from there another time, without messing with the fuel tank & covers again?
If I could get as far as fitting the fuel line along the tank clips, as far as where the pump would evetually be fitted, I could tie up the fuel line and put a plug/clamp in the end?
Sound feasible?
As I have a 6.1, if I do see the nipple at this point it would make sense to fit what I can then? I can see I need the elbow connector but what else could I connect to that in order to just carry on from there another time, without messing with the fuel tank & covers again?
If I could get as far as fitting the fuel line along the tank clips, as far as where the pump would evetually be fitted, I could tie up the fuel line and put a plug/clamp in the end?
Sound feasible?
You’d need the right angle connector and a length of fuel pipe to wherever you were planning on putting the pump. I clipped mine to the OEM location along side the tank and fitted the pump somewhere near the front passenger seat if I recall.
Dropping the tank was the easy part for me (30 min work) and you get the fuel pipe with the kit so maybe wait and save a few quid?
Dropping the tank was the easy part for me (30 min work) and you get the fuel pipe with the kit so maybe wait and save a few quid?
Last edited:
Yes - makes sense to put your fuel line in place now. You will thank yourself in the future! Fit a couple of metres of fuel line and coil it up out of the way - that way you will not have to join the line if you place the heater in a different from normal position.
You will need one of these or the right angle version if you can find it:
You will need one of these or the right angle version if you can find it:
2m of pukka pipe is only a couple of £ ( £10 for 8m ) so do it now! If you fit the heater now you can work in a warm van whilst converting it.
David Maloney
New Member
Thank you all, good advice. Will get ready to fit the pipe and as I'm probably fitting an autoterm, I've ordered the angled connector mentioned earlier. Looking back thru the conversation, it looks like I'll also need a piece of rubber hose between the connector and the fuel pipe and a couple of spring band clips/jubilee clips? I don't have anything like that, would you happen to know best sizes I need to look out for?
Pukka pipe, is that a brand or just a good one haha? I found pukka military parts who sell car parts but couldn't see any pipe listed
I have the luxury of a heated warehouse at work to do my conversion in, so no rush for the full heater just yet!
What does the slang Pukka mean?
real or genuine
If you describe something or someone as pukka, you mean that they are real or genuine, and of good quality. [British, old-fashioned]
The word “pukka”[1] of Hindi-Urdu origin has come to mean authentic, best in class, highest quality, proper, and superior.
real or genuine
If you describe something or someone as pukka, you mean that they are real or genuine, and of good quality. [British, old-fashioned]
The word “pukka”[1] of Hindi-Urdu origin has come to mean authentic, best in class, highest quality, proper, and superior.
David Maloney
New Member
So my 70 plate didn't have the sacred nipple and I didn't have a stand pipe to fit, so will get this all done later in the year, possibly at a shop. I therefore have the angled connector and 5m of fuel line, rubber connector and clamps from Autoterm for sale at cost, if anyone doing/thinking the same!
To confirm, I only needed to remove the middle and rear tank strap and loosen the front to get it to the position shown (and undo the fuel filler cap). Forgot to address the apparent rubbing from the chassis on the cable sheathing, hope it holds up until it sees daylight again!
