T6 Aftermarket Digital Instrument Cluster

[antony.charnley]

Historical issue with that stickered hdmi, I can save you the bother. You will want the replacement board for the mirror. It's just 4 screws and a small ribbon switch out, just take care on alignment. I have a higher specification box, I tested the Otto extensively and would say that the inability for it to switch off it's own WiFi (when connected to a router in the vehicle) or at least reset the connection so that it could establish the required direct WiFi hotspot connection used to initiate Android Auto was a total show stopper for me. Others do it better, also, certain chipsets are to be avoided. 660 is good 6125 good.. others.. might be worth checking or you may end up with video stream stammer. I have a box coming into my store with twice the storage (256gb) with the 6125 chipset, and 8gb of ram. I am going to be listing it soon with suitable angled HDMI to fit the Digidash perfectly. Including full support and customisable options. I've just made a short video which I'm uploading now to my YouTube channel which also should support with the HDMI aspect setups.

 

[MLS]

Historical issue with that stickered hdmi, I can save you the bother. You will want the replacement board for the mirror. It's just 4 screws and a small ribbon switch out, just take care on alignment. I have a higher specification box, I tested the Otto extensively and would say that the inability for it to switch off it's own WiFi (when connected to a router in the vehicle) or at least reset the connection so that it could establish the required direct WiFi hotspot connection used to initiate Android Auto was a total show stopper for me. Others do it better, also, certain chipsets are to be avoided. 660 is good 6125 good.. others.. might be worth checking or you may end up with video stream stammer. I have a box coming into my store with twice the storage (256gb) with the 6125 chipset, and 8gb of ram. I am going to be listing it soon with suitable angled HDMI to fit the Digidash perfectly. Including full support and customisable options. I've just made a short video which I'm uploading now to my YouTube channel which also should support with the HDMI aspect setups. www.youtube/@everest-vw

Totally agree re the WiFi and connecting to the phone. I found that app on Ottocast so killed the WiFi hotspot and use it which is great for the phone.

I may swop out the Ottocast soon so let me know details Antony

 

[frankKufstein]

I tried the OK, down arrow x 6 and it gave me a bong at 20mph and a ding at 25mph!!!!. did it again and it cleared the Ding so just back to bong now at 20mph

You have to do
- ( Minus ) … Volume Button
OK
Down

6 times, to get rid of the BONG at 20 mph ( 30Km/h )

By doing Ok down only, you’ll set the additional BING at any speed you want

Just had to do it again yesterday, and it worked like a charm for me

 

[MLS]

You have to do
- ( Minus ) … Volume Button
OK
Down

6 times, to get rid of the BONG at 20 mph ( 30Km/h )

By doing Ok down only, you’ll set the additional BING at any speed you want

Just had to do it again yesterday, and it worked like a charm for me

Thanks, i will try that again.

I did try the disconnect battery last night and left it unconnected for an hour to see if that made a difference but sadly no
haven't tried the minus volume first then ok down six times

thanks

 

[sparkzer]

I noticed on @antony.charnley Google drive, there is an update (dated 6th March). I'm not exactly sure the entirety of what this update included but i see the zip folder title mentions 'Brake Message Fixed', does anyone know any specifics?

Kinda surprised Preliingcar dont actually host the files themselves with a list of 'fixes' for each release as opposed to reliant on resellers distributing it for them.

 

[antony.charnley]

Believe me I've asked for a change log.. not possible I'm told, 5.1 brake error is fixed but only to be replaced with a driver assist error they are working on now. I prepped a full support video running through install methods and USB Compatibility, but I'm holding off until they give me something more reliable.

I spent the whole day today working on more robust speed alert suppression.. I've got something to share on YouTube tomorrow that should see us keeping it at bay for longer via a bit of gamesmaster cheat coding if anyone's old enough to remember that monocle wearing astro. My method will bury it for longer, but as for VCDS adaptions, I tried everything but just cannot get it to stick. Trouble is MFSW signal goes direct to BCM, BCM is where the menu is, BCM drives the cluster board, which just reads change.. it reads change and converts to a monitor signal, and eeprom contents are matched up for component protection and mileage validation, that's about it.

I'm going to push in the morning and see if I get get the factory to read my CANBUS output via VCDS laptop whilst making mfd changes to the settings. I'm coming to the conclusion they have built the Digidash almost like a learning remote.. and I want a menu feature for clearing speed alert! Like we have just got for TPMS disable in the 5.1 menu at long last for asking.

Trust me when I say I push them pretty hard to make these changes and halt further model expansion until they have nailed these core units. Transporters shall inherit the earth.. I've told them they need to understand what that means, let's see..

Starter battery terminal if you want it done in 30 seconds, will last a few months if your not messing, My button sequence if you have a few mins could be around 10 times harder to accidentally activate again. Once the settings are all nailed in.

I have noticed that the old MFD can move about 3 times quicker than the front from left to right. Makes me think, if there unit could detect which screen the MFD was showing it could be told.. if settings menu, auto repeat last press i.e. left or right, we wouldn't notice in the front menu, it would still be animated transitions.. can't wait to try and translate that concept in the morning!

 

[sparkzer]

Cheers for the info and for pushing them Ant, i'll hold fire on updating!

The biggest problem I see is the 'OK' button..as it is the bit that lets us enter menus in the legacy display which out us being aware and change settings and make/hang up calls without us wanting it to. I did wonder if there was a way of the digi-dash telling the legacy cluster to jump straight back to an 'uninteresting' menu (for example the main MFD screen where it shows adblue range), after every left/right press where no harm could be done on an enter press. i guess it largely depends on if each of the legacy MFD screens are addressable.

Also cheers for the info on nav screen resizing, ill be looking at that again next time i'm in the van. I had noticed on one of your videos in the past you have the '3 presses to full screen' option, I found i only had 2, (large dials/small dials, no full screen). so have been manually changing view to 'navigation' which is a bit of a faff. hopefully i can emulate how you have it configured.

 

[DJ821]

I've since upgraded to the small remote control for the Digidash. This allows me to bypass the need to use the steering wheel buttons. Since then, I've had no more problems with unwanted speed alerts or other random functions.

Thanks @antony.charnley, I visit your website regularly and wouldn't have known there was a remote control option without you.
Keep up the good work!

 

[MLS]

Believe me I've asked for a change log.. not possible I'm told, 5.1 brake error is fixed but only to be replaced with a driver assist error they are working on now. I prepped a full support video running through install methods and USB Compatibility, but I'm holding off until they give me something more reliable.

I spent the whole day today working on more robust speed alert suppression.. I've got something to share on YouTube tomorrow that should see us keeping it at bay for longer via a bit of gamesmaster cheat coding if anyone's old enough to remember that monocle wearing astro. My method will bury it for longer, but as for VCDS adaptions, I tried everything but just cannot get it to stick. Trouble is MFSW signal goes direct to BCM, BCM is where the menu is, BCM drives the cluster board, which just reads change.. it reads change and converts to a monitor signal, and eeprom contents are matched up for component protection and mileage validation, that's about it.

I'm going to push in the morning and see if I get get the factory to read my CANBUS output via VCDS laptop whilst making mfd changes to the settings. I'm coming to the conclusion they have built the Digidash almost like a learning remote.. and I want a menu feature for clearing speed alert! Like we have just got for TPMS disable in the 5.1 menu at long last for asking.

Trust me when I say I push them pretty hard to make these changes and halt further model expansion until they have nailed these core units. Transporters shall inherit the earth.. I've told them they need to understand what that means, let's see..

Starter battery terminal if you want it done in 30 seconds, will last a few months if your not messing, My button sequence if you have a few mins could be around 10 times harder to accidentally activate again. Once the settings are all nailed in.

I have noticed that the old MFD can move about 3 times quicker than the front from left to right. Makes me think, if there unit could detect which screen the MFD was showing it could be told.. if settings menu, auto repeat last press i.e. left or right, we wouldn't notice in the front menu, it would still be animated transitions.. can't wait to try and translate that concept in the morning!

Thanks Ant

 

[antony.charnley]

I will leave this here for anyone wanting a consumption and remaining miles correction DIY.

 

[antony.charnley]

I also have several solutions for the speed alert. Before I post that video, I'm just exhausting a few other hardware-purchased avenues to software code that out as a possibility:



I was like a man possessed researching this and attempting every tenuous link. Ultimately, my button press option will give us the most robust method possible, locking the possibility of activation out by a huge factor over the battery disconnect.

I will also try to draw up a diagram of the whole menu sequence so you can 'potentially' identify where you are in the menu. I have heard about the OK, DOWN 5 or 6 times. Sorry, but there is no way that method will work effectively or efficiently - if you are lucky. Like lucky man, lucky - you might deactivate it for a second just before you reactivate it again!

My method is the layer behind this, and it hides it from the MFD altogether, if you remember correctly, those early install guides - pre-setting your original MFD.

It was weird seeing that MFD again, even in this state. I am looking forward to putting it all back together again. Mine is a Highline T6, so when I post this video and the accompanying menu sequence, maybe others with OEM dash can still compare the menu sequence to theirs.

 

[antony.charnley]

Cheers for the info and for pushing them Ant, i'll hold fire on updating!

The biggest problem I see is the 'OK' button..as it is the bit that lets us enter menus in the legacy display which out us being aware and change settings and make/hang up calls without us wanting it to. I did wonder if there was a way of the digi-dash telling the legacy cluster to jump straight back to an 'uninteresting' menu (for example the main MFD screen where it shows adblue range), after every left/right press where no harm could be done on an enter press. i guess it largely depends on if each of the legacy MFD screens are addressable.

Also cheers for the info on nav screen resizing, ill be looking at that again next time i'm in the van. I had noticed on one of your videos in the past you have the '3 presses to full screen' option, I found i only had 2, (large dials/small dials, no full screen). so have been manually changing view to 'navigation' which is a bit of a faff. hopefully i can emulate how you have it configured.

I've noticed that the 3rd nav view isn't in some firmware versions; that 'should' be worked out.

 

[antony.charnley]

This has been my office for the last 2 days.. I think I'm going to spend the weekend out of the van, my family think I'm leaving them soon..

 

[Madpasty]

i'd love one of these, but all i ever here is things not working and having to keep updating, maybe one day it will all be sorted

 

[Sasquatch]

i'd love one of these, but all i ever here is things not working and having to keep updating, maybe one day it will all be sorted

That's why I'm hanging on. I have the IT skills of an Amish blacksmith so when I pull the trigger I want things A1.

 

[gilesjuk]

i'd love one of these, but all i ever here is things not working and having to keep updating, maybe one day it will all be sorted

It is what it is. A LCD display unit that is listening what's going on with CANBUS and trying to mimic the stock cluster. Except it's aftermarket and doesn't have the same rigorous levels of QA that a US/European product would have.

What would be better is if the cluster directly connected to the MFSW and then the original cluster wouldn't be receiving signals. But no idea how feasible that would be.

 

[Fishinbrine]

Have any or many people had the new T6.1 cluster fitted yet? I'm dying to pull the trigger and get one from Everest, more than comfortable fitting myself and very experienced with ODIS and VCDS but also very worried about having too many 'teething' issues with the cluster that will end up with me going back to the stick cluster

 

[Madpasty]

It is what it is. A LCD display unit that is listening what's going on with CANBUS and trying to mimic the stock cluster. Except it's aftermarket and doesn't have the same rigorous levels of QA that a US/European product would have.

What would be better is if the cluster directly connected to the MFSW and then the original cluster wouldn't be receiving signals. But no idea how feasible that would be.

i agree with what you say, but "it is what it is" doesn't convince me to part with almost £500
same as i wouldn't buy the best tyre in the world if it was prone to punctures..

 

[gilesjuk]

i agree with what you say, but "it is what it is" doesn't convince me to part with almost £500
same as i wouldn't buy the best tyre in the world if it was prone to punctures..

There's no OEM digital cluster for the T6, so you accept the limitations or live with what you have. I think this upgrade is more significant for people with startline spec. But this product is just one of many this company is churning out. They're not T6 enthusiasts.

 

[sparkzer]

i'd love one of these, but all i ever here is things not working and having to keep updating, maybe one day it will all be sorted

Like most things, people often dont talk about things when they are happy, but are vocal if something is not quite right. Personally, whilst I've seen a few bugs, the positives far outweigh the negatives. Once its set up and your over the honeymoon period of button pressing, it really just sits there looking cool.