The T6.1 LED tail lights lend themselves perfectly for the indicator sweep, not that is why I was asking, just want to get rid of the fast indication and indicator bulb out warning on the dash WITHOUT needing the resistor. The factory have done it so it would be nice they allow it with the last batch build T6 I have like Skoda did in 2014 with the earlier car being able to have the BCM coded correctly for LED, and like some people reporting BCM support for T5.1 with the T6 LED headlight retrofits.
I see Kufatec sell a loom now with an incorporated resistor.

T6.1 is MQB and T6 is still PQ25 so no way to get rid of double frequency without parallel resistor.
EDIT:
T6.1 tail lights physically fit T6 but they have been designed for a completely different electronic platform.

The T6.1 LED tail lights lend themselves perfectly for the indicator sweep ...
Not really possible ---> Oem T6 Led Rear Lights With Sequential Led Indicator "retrofit"
At least not the easy way.
 
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Ha, sounds like the dealer saying you can’t retrofit cruise control.... wink
Ordered some resistors . I will fit them away from the tail lights so I can screw them to a metal surface for heat dissipation as I use the hazards a lot.

So just a few things to tidy up, the lights are working as expected but I get a parking light 58 L/R open circuit fault code as the terminals at the bcm we’re disconnected and moved.
@Robert or @Pauly do you know which bit to turn off so the output is no longer sent to the disconnected terminals?
I have turned off the bulb monitoring, but I get irritated with a fault being present even though it doesn’t affect the operation.

C3CE3133-E1FC-46BA-84D6-2F55F51677C1.png
 
...
I know you need to run six wires but for 58L and 58R I used the wire at the T10/10 plug to link to T14/9 and just swapping those wires from the black plug over to the white plug so from T73a/41 now goes to T73b/5 for 58L (MX1) and from T73a/40 to T73b/6.
...
...
So just a few things to tidy up, the lights are working as expected but I get a parking light 58 L/R open circuit fault code as the terminals at the bcm we’re disconnected and moved.
@Robert or @Pauly do you know which bit to turn off so the output is no longer sent to the disconnected terminals?
I have turned off the bulb monitoring, but I get irritated with a fault being present even though it doesn’t affect the operation.
...
Before I ask you for your current and your original BCM coding, can you let me know how did you separate your tail lights from the front sides?
See green arrows below.
Zrzut ekranu z 2020-05-12 23-30-09.pngZrzut ekranu z 2020-05-12 23-30-16.png

Do your tail lights operate correctly? Is there any difference (luminosity-wise) when you switch from sides to DRLs?
 
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Just been out to check, first time I’ve seen the tail lights it in the dark since the front LED fit.
The tails DO have two brightness levels depending if DRL or sides used.
The wires to tail lights are still connected in the loom.
The 58L and 58R were unpinned from T73a 41/40 and moved to T73b 5/6
So I need to run wires direct from T73a 41/40 to the tail lights, of better still reconnect the factory wires to 41/40 so tails are connected again and run separate wires to T14/10 on MX1 and MX2.
That’s an easy fix then, thanks Robert
VAG helper heading your way if you want a copy.
 
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Just been out to check, first time I’ve seen the tail lights it in the dark since the front LED fit.
The tails DO have two brightness levels depending if DRL or sides used.
The wires to tail lights are still connected in the loom.
The 58L and 58R were unpinned from T73a 41/40 and moved to T73b 5/6
So I need to run wires direct from T73a 41/40 to the tail lights, of better still reconnect the factory wires to 41/40 and run separate wires to T14/10 on MX1 and MX2.
You still should be able to avoid running your unwanted 6th core ;).

RHS
I would separate 2 wires(grey/red) at T73a/40(58R) and I would leave the wire(grey/red) going to the tail light connected there.
Then the other wire(grey/red) should be connected to T73b/6 (as you have planned originally).

LHS
I would reconnect the factory wire(grey/black) back to T73a/41(58L) and by doing that your tail lamp will be also getting correct feed again.
Then I would use spare wire(red/blue) (halogen manual range control - originally T10aq/2) and connect it to the lamp pin T14h/10.
Next at the other end disconnect T6ac/2 from E102 (halogen headlight range control unit) and connect this wire to T73b/5.

Job done, no need for any extra wires and no faults in the BCM :thumbsup:.
 
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Effectively by following the above procedure you could complete LED headlamps retrofit without running any new cables at all.
PWM signal can be ignored and lamps will work 100% correctly.

But because of no automatic range control I strongly recommend not to proceed that way and I suggest to sacrifice for the sake of few meters of 5 or 6 core cable and few other bits ;) .
 
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Sorted, easiest place for me is to disconnect and isolate at T17n 9/7 for 58 L/R rear tail lights, then fit terminated two core at T17n at the removed pins and run the other end of two core to T73a 41/40
My reasoning is I don’t want to cut the wires so when I sell it, it can go back to standard and look unmolested.
For others looking at the thread, this is only necessary as I used 5 instead of six core cable which I had ordered for another project otherwise I would have used six core and this would not have been an issue.
As I was so focussed on getting the wiring and ecu’s in for the fogs range control and LED headlights along with the F/R PDC at the same time, I had lost sight of the 58 L/R feed which on my 69 plate is spliced in the loom not at the T73a terminal (which would have been a big red flag if it was at the terminal as I would have seen it) to the rear, assuming they had separate outputs from J519 as the LED CFD pdf I was working from was on my phone which doesn’t show the feed to the rear as they come off 40 and 41 not 5/6.
Important lesson learned, goes to show don’t try and rush an install. Thanks again to @Robert for pointing out my schoolboy error.
Like I said, use the six core and it won’t be an issue on your retrofit.
The diag for mine with H7 are below.

6B6FB660-823F-4DFF-9C94-D783EF9D6A1E.jpeg

EF413BEA-7841-42CE-879B-F0FF32D88CA0.jpeg
 
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Hello,i am just gathering parts to do this upgrade. Is the C part of the Headlight range controller 6R0907357C the important digit? I see a lot of them for sale that do not have any letter at all after the numbers and a lot with different letters after the numbers. Also,i see a lot with different letters at the start but the same numbers,just wondering if @Robert or @Pauly or anyone else knows if any others are compatible or if the code needs to be exact,thanks very much
 
I got the one listed, you will have less problems if you stick to the suggested list.
Also reading the thread some are for left hand drive and it has been suggested the coding can’t be changed for RHD. It took a while for mine to come up on eBay.
Also get one with a connector and some wires cut off as will save the horrendous cost of repair wires.
I used the terminals and connected to my own wires, but you need a quality terminal crimp tool or the crimp won’t allow it to fit in the connector housing.
Look for 000 979 009 E terminals on eBay for the range adjuster ecu plug if you want to go that route, but it would be cheaper in the long run to get the ecu with the plug and some wires.
 
Thanks for that @Flyingspanner ,i will wait for the right one,i just wondered if any of the others were compatible. I think @Robert used a lhd one without any problems but i could be wrong. I am going to be using a loom from @Pauly so not sure if that incorporates the wiring for the plug or not,i have asked him because someone said it did but again,im not sure,thanks again
 
Hello,i am just gathering parts to do this upgrade. Is the C part of the Headlight range controller 6R0907357C the important digit? I see a lot of them for sale that do not have any letter at all after the numbers and a lot with different letters after the numbers. Also,i see a lot with different letters at the start but the same numbers,just wondering if @Robert or @Pauly or anyone else knows if any others are compatible or if the code needs to be exact,thanks very much
Have a look here ---> T6 LED headlight retrofit?
here ---> T6 LED headlight retrofit?
and here ---> T6 LED headlight retrofit?
 
Thanks @Robert ,i had read it but missed the bit about the B being incompatible,must try harder!

One other thing @Robert ,@Pauly ,if you dont mind. I had a quote from TPS for some of the parts and when they sent the quote,where i had asked for 2 x 7PP941571AE,they had quoted for 2x 7PP941571AC. Are these compatible or not,just wondering why they had done that or if it was just some kind of error as they know what my van is and should really know what i was asking for,thanks very much
 
7PP941571AE is the correct factory supplied part. I have bought 7PP941571A for my retrofit and it worked for me no issues.
I have no idea why your supplier changed part number cause 7PP941571AE are constantly available for sale from other large online retailers.
On the other hand there is a good chance that this last letter has no influence on module functionality (E, C or none) but I can't say that for sure.
 
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Thanks @Robert ,i have asked why they changed it and if the C ones are compatible but have not had a reply yet. Hopefully as you said,the last letter does not matter,we will see
 
Hello,just in case anyone else is interested,Tps got back to me and said that the ones ending in C are the newest model and superceed the AE model. It just so happens that i got a pair of AE ones just before he got back to me but nice to know because there seems to be more of the C ones around
 
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