T6 OEM LED-headlight retrofit
I don't think he is making them anymore, he hasn't responded to any of my PMs I've sent to him about the headlight loom and the power latching kits.
Oh that's not good.. I won't be able to do this without that!
So putting the feelers out, who would be interested in a few months old genuine UK TPS sourced LED headlights, headlight LED ecu’s x4, looms (made by myself using genuine later type connectors (not the 1J0 14 pin plug used on the T5), level sensors and ecu for headlight levelling?
The headlights and led ecu,s x4 have the remainder of the two year warranty on them.
Loom set up for tailgate not barn door version.
The headlights and led ecu,s x4 have the remainder of the two year warranty on them.
Loom set up for tailgate not barn door version.
I would be interested if the price is right!
£2500 Lights ecu x4, light looms, level sensors, level sensor looms, level sensor ecu.
OR
£2100 for just lights without the level sensor setup.
Not cheap, but you know it all works, has TPS warranty, all the donkey work has been done. Quality looms. Fitting photos.
OR
£2100 for just lights without the level sensor setup.
Not cheap, but you know it all works, has TPS warranty, all the donkey work has been done. Quality looms. Fitting photos.
@scotia and @spyker ,i had a loom for the headlights made from @Pauly not too long back so i think he probably does still make them and they make the job pretty straightforward. I did have to wait a while for it because he is just so busy all the time but it was well worth the wait. Keep trying him and im sure when he gets a minute,he will tell you one way or the other
Hello, so yep Pauly is still doing the looms when he has time (hes a busy man though!) but is not sure it'll work for a LHD..
So im probably going to bite the bullet and try to copy @Robert ...i think i understand whats needed with regards to the cabling..
Some questions though (and others may well have them.. if not im the only stupid one
)
1. Im ok with taking the exisiting 10pin plug and swapping the wires out to repopulate the 14pin and piggy back some 6 core to take the new wires to the bcm.. but what do i need to do with the 6R0907357C? headlight range control module - is this detailed in the post i didnt see..
2. the levelling sensors - I've seen that they are positioned on the wishbones it seems right? Is there a concensus as to which to use for LHD?
3. the cabling of said sensors.. what do i do with these cables once i get them into the van (side note - what is the best route for this?)?
thanks in advance people!
So im probably going to bite the bullet and try to copy @Robert ...i think i understand whats needed with regards to the cabling..
Some questions though (and others may well have them.. if not im the only stupid one
) 1. Im ok with taking the exisiting 10pin plug and swapping the wires out to repopulate the 14pin and piggy back some 6 core to take the new wires to the bcm.. but what do i need to do with the 6R0907357C? headlight range control module - is this detailed in the post i didnt see..
2. the levelling sensors - I've seen that they are positioned on the wishbones it seems right? Is there a concensus as to which to use for LHD?
3. the cabling of said sensors.. what do i do with these cables once i get them into the van (side note - what is the best route for this?)?
thanks in advance people!
A big tip to save you some money, buy the terminal ends and a good terminal crimp tool rather than using repair wires and the ferrules, it looks much neater and will save you a fortune. Those wires are expensive for what they are, they were produced as some of the shocking repairs the dealers made by techs unfamiliar with how to use the then Wurth terminal kit properly, and to get rid of black wire corrosion by allowing the wire to be cut back to clean wire.
This is not necessary as you are building new looms.
If you can, get a range ecu with a cut off plug with already populated wires this again will save you a lot in repair wires and you will have the correct colours.
Yes you can re pin some wires but read through the threads as this too will save you time as those who carried out the conversion have been through the pitfalls and most are already covered which will save you time.
This is not necessary as you are building new looms.
If you can, get a range ecu with a cut off plug with already populated wires this again will save you a lot in repair wires and you will have the correct colours.
Yes you can re pin some wires but read through the threads as this too will save you time as those who carried out the conversion have been through the pitfalls and most are already covered which will save you time.
I went through the wiring diagrams comparing my 10 pin H7 headlights to the 14 pin LED type.
I used the later type 14 pin plugs used on the later vans rather than the 1J0 numbered plugs, the terminals are much more substantial reducing contact resistance.
Also use grommets and blanks to seal the plugs.
I used the later type 14 pin plugs used on the later vans rather than the 1J0 numbered plugs, the terminals are much more substantial reducing contact resistance.
Also use grommets and blanks to seal the plugs.
ok thanks - do you happen to have the part numbers for these 14 pin plugs?
I have part numbers for everything somewhere. I will see if I can find my info.
That is the old 14 pin plug, new one has much more substantial terminals, the old one will work though.
New one used from factory is 3C0 973 737 with the range motor and signal wire terminals smaller than the main light supplies and earths.
Also use the specified engine bay repair tape NOT the fluffy flocked tape which is only for interior loom use these days. N 105 920 02
NB the terminal pins used in the 1J0 plug are different and DONT FIT the newer 3C0 plug housing.
New one used from factory is 3C0 973 737 with the range motor and signal wire terminals smaller than the main light supplies and earths.
Also use the specified engine bay repair tape NOT the fluffy flocked tape which is only for interior loom use these days. N 105 920 02
NB the terminal pins used in the 1J0 plug are different and DONT FIT the newer 3C0 plug housing.
Last edited:
specbetinvest
New Member
You still should be able to avoid running your unwanted 6th core
RHS
I would separate 2 wires(grey/red) at T73a/40(58R) and I would leave the wire(grey/red) going to the tail light connected there.
Then the other wire(grey/red) should be connected to T73b/6 (as you have planned originally).
LHS
I would reconnect the factory wire(grey/black) back to T73a/41(58L) and by doing that your tail lamp will be also getting correct feed again.
Then I would use spare wire(red/blue) (halogen manual range control - originally T10aq/2) and connect it to the lamp pin T14h/10.
Next at the other end disconnect T6ac/2 from E102 (halogen headlight range control unit) and connect this wire to T73b/5.
Job done, no need for any extra wires and no faults in the BCM.
Hi
I would like to change the lights in my T6 2019 , I had regular bulbs, I bought led lamps without a range module, please write how to connect the wires.
Thank You
Just read through the thread, it’s all there.
Also you will blind oncoming traffic without range adjusters, these lights are very bright.
Have a look below.
T6 LED headlight retrofit?
... And by the way, all of the wiring from the halogen setup(either H4 or twin H7) can be reused for the LED lights except for the side lights. Two new wires have to be run from BCM plug B PIN5 to LHS lamp PIN10 PIN6 to RHS lamp PIN10 The reason is below. This is the voltage produced by BCM...
Hi All
First, I’d like to stay what a great forum with lots of information as proven by my attempt to dive in the deep end and retrofit the OEM LED headlights thanks to everyone that has contributed to this particular post on how to do it (Pauly, Robert in particular).
Thanks to all the information here and with Pauly’s loom I now have the LEDs fitted and working, however, I have an error message on my range controller stating a short to ground:- I’ve attached the picture of the error below.
In my own investigation I have established that I have no voltage going to either Level Sensor. I believe I should be getting 5V across pins 1 & 2 at the sensor end but I have zip.
I have tested continuity at the Controller end and can confirm I have circuit to the front and rear. I am thinking that the range controller is FUBAR’d and although is getting 12volts in, it is not sending the 5V out to the levellers.
Before I condemn my controller and buy another I thought I’d post here to see if there was anything I was missing. Maybe a setting in the coding that switches on the voltage output or PWM for the controller to the levellers or if there was any other specific controller test that I can run. I don’t think so but any ideas are welcome.
Thanks in advance
First, I’d like to stay what a great forum with lots of information as proven by my attempt to dive in the deep end and retrofit the OEM LED headlights thanks to everyone that has contributed to this particular post on how to do it (Pauly, Robert in particular).
Thanks to all the information here and with Pauly’s loom I now have the LEDs fitted and working, however, I have an error message on my range controller stating a short to ground:- I’ve attached the picture of the error below.
In my own investigation I have established that I have no voltage going to either Level Sensor. I believe I should be getting 5V across pins 1 & 2 at the sensor end but I have zip.
I have tested continuity at the Controller end and can confirm I have circuit to the front and rear. I am thinking that the range controller is FUBAR’d and although is getting 12volts in, it is not sending the 5V out to the levellers.
Before I condemn my controller and buy another I thought I’d post here to see if there was anything I was missing. Maybe a setting in the coding that switches on the voltage output or PWM for the controller to the levellers or if there was any other specific controller test that I can run. I don’t think so but any ideas are welcome.
Thanks in advance
What's your 55 coding?
Did you get it new or second hand and if so what vehicle did it come out from?
Hi Robert
It was 2nd hand from Poland. It looks like a newish unit but who knows. Coding was 0FCA and I changed it too CE to see if it would make a difference but it didn’t except it now gives me a calibration error but i assume that because I changed the code and it now thinks it needs re-calibrating. I can do that after but i had the same short to ground error before.
Headlights do all work as expected and even do the little bow when starting up but clearly now accurate level input.
Any ideas? I might try a different Controller And see if I get the 5V output Unless you think its something else?
Cheers
It was 2nd hand from Poland. It looks like a newish unit but who knows. Coding was 0FCA and I changed it too CE to see if it would make a difference but it didn’t except it now gives me a calibration error but i assume that because I changed the code and it now thinks it needs re-calibrating. I can do that after but i had the same short to ground error before.
Headlights do all work as expected and even do the little bow when starting up but clearly now accurate level input.
Any ideas? I might try a different Controller And see if I get the 5V output Unless you think its something else?
Cheers