Too Many OBDii Faults For My Liking!

BrianK

BrianK

Member
T6 Pro
Hello All

After having problems with a split charge relay not working on my 2014 T5 I Have bought a shiny new Autel MaxiAP AP200 (couldn’t stretch to VCDS/VAG) but I’m a little concerned about the amount of faults I have discovered, list at bottom of this post.

One thing I have wondered is whether the split charge relay itself (which currently doesn’t seem to be doing much) may be causing all/some of this. As a starting point should I consider disconnecting it at least temporarily.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.

EDIT: The less important reverse sensor fault only started yesterday when they suddenly stopped working!


1. 01 - Engine Control Module 1---(6)

1.1 U100800 Diagnostic interface for data bus Passive/Sporadic Read out DTC

1.2 P305400 Starter does not turn Passive/Sporadic Mechanically blocked or electrical malfunction

1.3 P066A00 Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Control Circuit Low Passive/Sporadic

1.4 P066C00 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Control Circuit Low Passive/Sporadic

1.5 P066E00 Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Control Circuit Low Passive/Sporadic

1.6 P068A00 ECM/PCM Power Relay De-Energized Performance - Passive/Sporadic


2. 10 - Parking Assistance 2---(2)

2.1 B107614 Left rear park assist sensors Passive/Sporadic Open circuit/short circuit to ground

2.2 B107631 Left rear park assist sensors Passive/Sporadic


3. 56 - Radio---(1)

3.1 03138 Input AUX IN-Open circuit


4. 61 - Battery Regulation---(1)

4.1 02252 Generator-No signal/communication Passive/Sporadic
 
Another thought.

The last owner replaced the starter battery just before I bought the van. Is there a chance any of this could be caused by the replacement not being registered properly?
 
I have seen many errors from a low voltage starter battery. I would suggest you clear them and see what reappears.
 
As above....

Agreed, reset and see what comes back
 
Will the Autel let you see what is currently coded for the battery? If the PO has changed size/capacity or type (AGM/EFB/LA) then making sure the battery is coded correctly is the only way to be sure.
Even a straight swap needs some input to reset the charging profile from an old worn out battery to a fresh new one.
 
Evening all

I’m finding it really hard to believe this and do have to double check I’m using the scanner correctly but I cleared all faults and re-scanned tonight and had NO faults at all!

If this is indeed the correct result and no faults are forthcoming does this mean there is no need to investigate the battery being installed/registered?

Grim Reaper - I'm still investigating if I've found the correct bit of the app to tell me this. I have pasted below this post an output I had from control unit/battery regulation but find it highly unlikely this is what you were revering to but correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks again everyone



Diagnostic Path: Automatic selection\7E/7F - Transporter 2010 >\Multivan\CAAC 2.0l TDI-CR / 103kW\Control unit\61 - Battery Regulation\ECU information\

VAG Number: 7H0907534
System Designation: Batt.regelung
Software Coding: 030B7A73
Software Version: 0725
WSC: 02737
IMP: 00790
Geraet: 0000000
Hardware Part Number: 7H0937090
Hardware Version: H75
ECU Protocol: KWP2000CAN20
 
Reread your first post and I now see you have a T5, is it a Start/Stop version? If not it may not require battery coding.
Start/Stop enabled vans require battery type and capacity to be known by the ECU so it knows how much to charge the battery to leave 20% capacity free for the regenerative braking charge.
I can’t see any reference in the screenshot to a manufacturer so it is either not there or your reader isn’t getting the part needed.
There’s a video about how to recode a battery using VCDS, have a look and see if any of the coding looks the same in your device, note the manufacturer codes MLA, JCB etc and the fact the battery should have a BEM code sticker on it to assist coding.
 
Grim Reaper,

Does that mean what pasted above does mean something to you?!

Having watched the video I can’t recall anything in the Autel setup that looks similar, but I will try going through it again ASAP.

My story started many week ago by discovering the 60A split charge relay doesn’t seem to charge the leisure battery, and I concluded I may have to fit a B2B charger, and to be honest whatever alternator I haveI wonder if this might be wise anyway.
I believe all of my research went approximately in the order below:
After I got the van I found that even a drive of 3 to 4 hours didn’t seem to improve the leisure battery in the slightest, but plugging into the EHU definitely charges it to about 13.6/13.8 volts

Even though a VW specialist (who I think posts on the VWT4 Forum) said the presence of a shunt on my negative terminal meant I had a smart alternator, as well as the original main dealer/supplier of the van saying the van DOES have the smart alternator, If I drive the van with a multimeter plugged into the cig lighter the voltage seems to remain at 14.18 volts although this hasn’t been re-tested since clearing the faults. Additionally many people have said smart alternators weren’t installed on T5’s until 2016!

I have since done another test drive of about three quarters of an hour each way with the multimeter connected.
As explained before when driving normally voltage stays at almost exactly 14.18 Volts. I found reasonable hard braking can make voltage go down to about 14.13 but only temporarily.
Went down fractionally (to 14.17/14.16) when changing down to third, for instance when approaching roundabouts, but didn’t seem to be affected with the other gears.
If I hold back on the gearbox only (no touching brakes) going down fairly steep hills in third gear the voltage goes down to around about 14.13, then if I change up to fourth once reaching the bottom of the hill the voltage seems to have a further drop temporary say to 14.10/14.11 but only for a second or two before going back up to its normal place.

So in other words no major difference really at all.

Further specs of the van are:
The van is 2014 T30 Highline 1986cc (but Autel seems to recognise it as 2015)
Halford HB110 75ah starter battery
Bosch S5013 100ah leisure battery
CBE PC210 Controller
CBE CB516 Mains charger
CBE DS120-S Mains consumer unit
CBE DS300 Distribution board
Waeco CRX 50 Fridge
Planar 2D diesel heater
 
The 12V socket is this side of a voltage regulator so you will not see any voltage spikes. You need to connect direct to the battery to see what the alternator is doing.
If the dealer says you have a smart alternator (stop/start technology is the big giveaway) then I can understand why you were not getting a full charge on your leisure battery with a split charge relay, the starter battery is only charged to 80% by the van to leave space for the regenerative braking charge to fit.
I think you need to get your hands on VCDS to check and recode your existing battery if necessary, and change to a dc-dc charger.
 
Thanks

Sorry forgot to say I do have stop/start but wasn't sure that 100% means the van has smart alternator and regenerative braking etc.

If I run a couple of wires temporarily from the battery to the multimeter what sort of output should I expect if the alternator is working correctly?

In the meantime I will investigate further whether I can recode the battery with my current unit or need VCDS/VAGS
 
Voltage will vary widely typically going up when braking or when engine is on overrun, to low voltage on cruise when the alternator is turned off and uses the battery to run things to save energy/drag from the alternator.
Someone has posted a picture of alternator output on here somewhere, I’ll see if I can find it.
 
If your van has Stop/Start, the Halfords HB110 Lead Acid battery is the wrong type for it.
The van should be fitted with either an AGM or an EFB type battery.
Regular Lead Acid batteries are not suitable for the high voltage, high current dumping that the regenerative braking system puts into them.
Your Bosch S5013 is also not a leisure battery, it’s more suited to being a starter battery. (Though unfortunately, not in a Start/Stop installation as it’s still not AGM or EFB)
 
Grim Reaper said:
The 12V socket is this side of a voltage regulator so you will not see any voltage spikes. You need to connect direct to the battery to see what the alternator is doing.
Click to expand...

On my T6, the dashtop 12v outlet appears to be connected "direct" to the battery i.e. a voltmeter shows 12 and a bit volts before starting when vehicle is left for a few weeks, and peaks at 14 and a bit volts on overrun when driving, and 13 and a bit volts when accelerating and battery is full i.e. typical smart alternator behaviour.

Of course, if your battery is struggling, then the smart alternator will output 14 and a bit volts all the time.

Pete
 
Pete,

The outlet I'm using is the same as yours the other one doesn't work yet (another story :(). Hopefully by the end of the day I will know if there is any difference on MY van between connecting via the fag lighter and battery direct.

Thanks
Brian
 
From Delmassive's post on the thread I linked to...
ELSAWIN Quote:
Role of voltage stabiliser:
Voltage dips occur in the onboard supply system each time the engine is started due to the high current draw of the starter. To prevent any failure in the infotainment components and the dash panel insert when the engine is restarted, the voltage supply to the infotainment system and the dash panel insert is protected by means of voltage stabilisation. To do this, terminal 30 is fed through a DC/DC converter during the starting process and the voltage is stabilised at 12V. The DC/DC converter is only active during the actual starting process (terminal 50). For other times, the converter is bridged with the aid of an internal relay and supply comes directly from the onboard supply system (terminal 30).
Effects in case of voltage stabiliser failure:
When the starter is operated and the voltage supply is insufficient for devices like radio, radio navigation or telephone they will perform a reset. If, in start/stop mode, the mentioned electrical consumers are identified as causing a reset for each motor start, this indicates a defective voltage stabiliser. A direct entry concerning a malfunction of the voltage regulator, e.g. in the event memory of the diagnostic interface or the onboard supply control unit, does not occur at present. If radio, radio navigation and telephone units fail together, first check fuse of voltage regulator.
 
Grim Reaper said:
If your van has Stop/Start, the Halfords HB110 Lead Acid battery is the wrong type for it.

The van should be fitted with either an AGM or an EFB type battery.
Click to expand...

This is very interesting and a big surprise, although I should have guessed having read all of DellMassives thread that you linked above last night :oops:

Grim Reaper said:
Your Bosch S5013 is also not a leisure battery, it’s more suited to being a starter battery. (Though unfortunately, not in a Start/Stop installation as it’s still not AGM or EFB)
Click to expand...

This I did realise and had intended when I added it to the list to put ’NOT’ at the end but forgot.

I had intended to fit two Bosch LFD90’s having read much about their robustness?!


So it’s as follows then?:

1. Test direct from battery to see if I can ascertain if I DO have a smart.

2. Assuming I do prove I have smart alternator try to get into the battery details via OBD and see if registered properly.

3. Replace starter battery?

4. Instal DC/DC B2B charger and 2 leisure batteries.


Brian
 
Last edited:
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