What Have You Done To Your Van Today?

That looks smart
Been looking at the same kind of thing, can you tell me if VF units are built around a wooden frame or are the furniture boards just fixed together with brackets ?
also are you able to secure them to to lashing points
thanks
 
@Panch think flat pack furniture cnc cut lightweight ply. They do need a good sanding. Ran out of light today to investigate fixing them to the lashing points. Will update when I sus it out.
 
@Panch think flat pack furniture cnc cut lightweight ply. They do need a good sanding. Ran out of light today to investigate fixing them to the lashing points. Will update when I sus it out.
cheers @Fozzer ..it’s definitely the way I want to go. It would work with carrying my MTB between the two side units
 
@laidbackian what paint or product did you use?
After removing the trims, I gave them a good clean clean in warm soapy water, followed with a final clean with IPA. Then masked them, which is the most time consuming part of the process, before applying:
  • 2 x coats of plastic primer.
  • 2 x coats of paint.
  • 2 x coats of clear lacquer.
The colour I choose was to match the furniture in the rear, and it took a couple of days prep and waiting for the layers to dry, before applying the next. Here are the products I used.

3D6DCDA0-3662-43CB-AEE0-C2BB9BF59908.jpeg
 
Fitted a makeshift exhaust shield from a length of plastic drain pipe.

My diesel heater's exhaust sticks out from a cut out in the underside plastic panel. I don't like the idea of water ingress etc as the hole is larger that the exhaust. So I cut a length of plastic drain pipe and then sliced it length ways. Then heated and shaped to fit under the van to shield the gap. I'm quite happy with the result.
IMG_20221122_125314.jpgIMG_20221122_125323.jpgIMG_20221122_125337.jpgIMG_20221122_125352.jpgIMG_20221122_125400.jpgIMG_20221122_130527.jpgIMG_20221122_130535.jpgIMG_20221122_130945.jpg
 
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@Salty85 - How is this done? Any specific downloads needed?
I followed this guide here...


They have a text file you can download to USB which tells the head unit what to display on boot up and you just need to save an image to the USB in the right format.
 
After removing the trims, I gave them a good clean clean in warm soapy water, followed with a final clean with IPA. Then masked them, which is the most time consuming part of the process, before applying:
  • 2 x coats of plastic primer.
  • 2 x coats of paint.
  • 2 x coats of clear lacquer.
The colour I choose was to match the furniture in the rear, and it took a couple of days prep and waiting for the layers to dry, before applying the next. Here are the products I used.

View attachment 179963
After removing the trims, I gave them a good clean clean in warm soapy water, followed with a final clean with IPA. Then masked them, which is the most time consuming part of the process, before applying:
  • 2 x coats of plastic primer.
  • 2 x coats of paint.
  • 2 x coats of clear lacquer.
The colour I choose was to match the furniture in the rear, and it took a couple of days prep and waiting for the layers to dry, before applying the next. Here are the products I used.

View attachment 179963
Many thanks, looks really good
 
Fitted a makeshift exhaust shield from a length of plastic drain pipe.

My diesel heater's exhaust sticks out from a cut out in the underside plastic panel. I don't like the idea of water ingress etc as the hole is larger that the exhaust. So I cut a length of plastic drain pipe and then sliced it length ways. Then heated and shaped to fit under the van to shield the gap. I'm quite happy with the result.
View attachment 179967View attachment 179970
I like the fabrication from drainpipe, I can think of some other uses for that technique. On the exhaust, on my old van the silencer is behind the undertray, and a length of pipe goes on the end to poke out through a small hole, pointing down and backwards.
 
Sheared of the threaded lug to the passenger seat base when refitting nut after adding some silicone grease, to hopefully address squeaks. Instructions made no mention of avoiding over-tightening. If anyone can offer any solutions they'd be greatly received. I did think drilling out out replacing with conventional nut and bolt may be a solution, but can see this being a ball-ache (inevitably needing to remove seat base to drill out to avoid swarf entering electrical components), a b*gger to hold in place from beneath and wouldn't want to compromise on safety at all.

tempImagems5xl7.png
 
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