Barn-door To Tailgate Conversion

[HoopDub]

Another small update. Managed to code the tailgate, so thats good.
Also got a release switch fitted inside. I did want an oem T6 switch, but there must be unicorns trained to poope them out given the prices asked for them. Near £100 groats for the switch and plastic surround!! No thanks, so i went for the Audi A8 boot release switch and surround for £10 and the corresponding connection plug housing for £4. Pin out the blue VW plug, fit the new one, and the switch. All works fine and my wallet lives to fight another day.

 

[Beadley]

To anyone that has recently completed a barn door to tailgate conversion, I don't suppose you have the upper and lower catch (striker) plates and door stays that you want to sell do you? I'm struggle to get these. I'm converting a disability T5.1 which has auto opening doors and these bits have been removed.

 

[HoopDub]

To anyone that has recently completed a barn door to tailgate conversion, I don't suppose you have the upper and lower catch (striker) plates and door stays that you want to sell do you? I'm struggle to get these. I'm converting a disability T5.1 which has auto opening doors and these bits have been removed.

I've got both top and one bottom striker plates, and both stays.

 

[djmeeg]

Hi everyone, I thought as I am still having issues with the electrics of my tailgate after conversion. I would post abit more as no iam reall stumped and feel that I am missing something.

Previously I posted that my tailage

To be honest, if you don't remember doing it, chances are you didn't. It's not a 5 minute job, to run the wires you have to take down the headlinging throughout, the A pillar trim, lower dash trim, etc etc.
So, no matter how much coding you do it will never work. Having it partially work in certain circumstances is a sign that kind of backs up the probability of it being wiring.

I have taken the time to run wires from the bcm to the tailgate. I have the correct pins as stated in the guide. I can confirm when testing the Acuator works. The external handle is also connected to the bcm as per guide. I can also confirm when the handle button is pressed using vcds modules I can see it does see the press and shows activated when pressed. So all seems good. However the tail gate test on the vcds doesn’t work if the latch of the tailgate is fully closed! Nor does the handle open the tailgate when the van is unlocked. So I am now really scratching my head. There are 3 wires that come from the latch I have jumper wires in between the connectors I used in electronics projects. So iam able to switch the wires around if need be much it doesn’t make much difference. Switch the 2 signal wires around. Earth seems to be pin 2.


For some reason the latch needs to be open or in the first position door ajar in order to work. I have attatched the vcds settings and screen shots but I don’t seem to be able to get it work correctly.

 

[djmeeg]

Latch and jumper wires for testing

 

[HoopDub]

Your coding has some conflicts.
Uncheck byte 0 bit 1 and bit 2

When i get home i will check my laptop for the other ones, can't remember off top of my head.

 

[mmi]

Hi everyone, I thought as I am still having issues with the electrics of my tailgate after conversion. I would post abit more as no iam reall stumped and feel that I am missing something.

Previously I posted that my tailage

I have taken the time to run wires from the bcm to the tailgate. I have the correct pins as stated in the guide. I can confirm when testing the Acuator works. The external handle is also connected to the bcm as per guide. I can also confirm when the handle button is pressed using vcds modules I can see it does see the press and shows activated when pressed. So all seems good. However the tail gate test on the vcds doesn’t work if the latch of the tailgate is fully closed! Nor does the handle open the tailgate when the van is unlocked. So I am now really scratching my head. There are 3 wires that come from the latch I have jumper wires in between the connectors I used in electronics projects. So iam able to switch the wires around if need be much it doesn’t make much difference. Switch the 2 signal wires around. Earth seems to be pin 2.


For some reason the latch needs to be open or in the first position door ajar in order to work. I have attatched the vcds settings and screen shots but I don’t seem to be able to get it work correctly.

Would always be helpful to have full VCDS Auto-Scan as text.

At first glance you need to change the following BCM codings:
byte 1 - change from FC --> A8
byte 2 - change from 09 --> 39
byte 7 - change from 31 --> 11

byte 0 - change from EE --> 62 (if you do not have safe-lock), or EE --> A0 (if you have safe-lock)
verify everything works and then separately adjust Auto-Lock & Auto-Unlock functionalities (bits 3&4)

 

[djmeeg]

Your coding has some conflicts.
Uncheck byte 0 bit 1 and bit 2

When i get home i will check my laptop for the other ones, can't remember off top of my head.

Hi, thanks for the input. Yes I am hoping someone might spot what I’ve done wrong.

I changed the settings you mentioned but it made no difference.

 

[djmeeg]

Would always be helpful to have full VCDS Auto-Scan as text.

At first glance you need to change the following BCM codings:
byte 1 - change from FC --> A8
byte 2 - change from 09 --> 39
byte 7 - change from 31 --> 11

byte 0 - change from EE --> 62 (if you do not have safe-lock), or EE --> A0 (if you have safe-lock)
verify everything works and then separately adjust Auto-Lock & Auto-Unlock functionalities (bits 3&4)

Hi

Ok so I have safe lock. A switch drivers side to lock and unlock the doors.

So I changed the bytes as you suggested

byte 1 - change from FC --> A8
byte 2 - change from 09 --> 39
byte 7 - change from 31 --> 11

byte 0 - change from EE --> 62 (if you do not have safe-lock), or EE --> A0 (if you have safe-lock)

I ran a output test on the lid and it opened great but now it doesn’t seem to be working. Also my central locking via remote become completely unresponsive to lock and unlock button on the fob I have to then do it via the key in the door

 

[djmeeg]

Full scan

 

[mmi]

Full scan

Well, the scan doesn't have the modifications?
Please make a new one with the coding changes - as it sounds the central locking is disabled.

 

[djmeeg]

ok here is a full scan with the changes made as described above.

I am concerned by the number of errors i seem to be getting. I have also reto fitted parking sensors to the rear which is all working fine with oem parking sensor unit although i can see errors for the parallel parking module which i dont have. I wonder if i have selected items i didnt need.

I tend to intermittently get the light bulb arrow as i have now got led license plate lamps. But changing that also doesnt seem to stop the fault coming back.

 

[mmi]

Also my central locking via remote become completely unresponsive to lock and unlock button on the fob I have to then do it via the key in the door

Hmmm... the central locking installed/uninstalled would be in byte 0 (bit 5) but currently it's as it should be. Also the other coding proposals (bytes 1, 2, 7) were factory codings.

Are you sure you have got the safe-lock - but you do not have the alarm system (according to the scan)?
Of course you could reinstate byte 0 back to EE - as the byte 0 is not directly related to tailgate settings as are bytes 1, 2, 7.

But as @HoopDub mentioned the byte 0 had conflicting bits in it???

 

[djmeeg]

Hmmm... the central locking installed/uninstalled would be in byte 0 (bit 5) but currently it's as it should be. Also the other coding proposals (bytes 1, 2, 7) were factory codings.

Are you sure you have got the safe-lock - but you do not have the alarm system (according to the scan)?
Of course you could reinstate byte 0 back to EE - as the byte 0 is not directly related to tailgate settings as are bytes 1, 2, 7.

But as @HoopDub mentioned the byte 0 had conflicting bits in it???

hi, regarding safe lock i have somthing that looks jdut liek this on drivers side like i said. which allows me to lock and unlcok the doors when i am in the van. the issue with the remote seems to work some times and not others its becomign quite annyoing. the tailgate i still cant get it to open at all usong the handle or using the test in vcds to open rear lid

hi, regarding safe lock i have somthing that looks jdut liek this on drivers side like i said. which allows me to lock and unlcok the doors when i am in the van. the issue with the remote seems to work some times and not others its becomign quite annyoing. the tailgate i still cant get it to open at all usong the handle or using the test in vcds to open rear lid

 

[HoopDub]

Few questions regarding your van spec.

Do you have twin sliding doors or just left side?
Is your sliding door manual, pull to open/close or is it electric open/close?

If your have only one sliding door and it is manually operated you need to remove "0D sliding door left" from your can gateway installation list as this module is for electrically operated sliding doors.

Looking atbone of your tailgate faults, short to plus, could be a wire isn't in the correct place. Can you confirm your wiring is correct at the plugs on he tailgate. Do you have the wiring diagram to confirm what goes to what pins?

 

[djmeeg]

Hi, thanks for the response. I will remove the sliding door from the gateway as that is a mistake. I only have manual door thank you for this.

Regarding the wiring I followed the guide exactly. Using the tailgate and barn door images of the pin layouts in the guide to ensure the correct pins are connected to the harness in the b pillar where the tailgate wiring loom meets the connector. Once I tried to program however I couldn’t get it to work. It behaved just as it does now. So my next step was to check the bsm. I didn’t have pins in the exact place described in the guilde. So I spent a long time with the correct wire gauge connecting the corrected pins of the bsm.
Ran the 2 wires 1 for the door handle soft button on the outside and 1 to power the actuator to unlock the tailgate.

Got the wiring loom into the tailgate. Great ! Handle registers activated when pressed from the outside in the tailgate. I am not actually sure where the wires went that was on the lock. I must have used the same wire which unlocked the barn doors but didn’t go to the bsm pin described in the guide. This however had the same behaviour as the wire I’ve just ran from the correct pin on the bsm. Which is the actuator doesn’t work when the tailgate is fully closed.

What I notice that is different to mine from the guide is the message blocks.

On the guide the row 006 i notice mine says not installed. And only one box changes from open to close when tailgate closes. Could this be the source of the confusion for the van ?

 

[HoopDub]

Ok so wiring, just to confirm the extra 2 wires required in the tailgate swap run from the BCM T73a Black plug, pin number 23. This wire is for outer handle release switch. This wire needs to go to the tailgate wiring harness plug T17o, 17 pin connector at pin number 13.

The next wire from the BCM T73a Black plug pin number 10. This wire is for the rear lid release motor. This wire needs to go to the tailgate wiring harness plug T17o, 17 pin connector at pin number 14.

If you have cut off the 17 pin plug and now don't remember what wires were in pin 13 and 14, (made more difficult as they are all white wires into the tailgate, as you know). You can use a multimeter and continuity check where the wires go.
Pin 13 at the 17 pin connector, van side, this wire then splits, one runs to pin number 1 on the outer handle release switch connection. Pin 2 of this connector will be ground. The other wire splice goes to the childproof lock switch via a 2 pin connector, pin number 1. Then out of that connector (now a grey wire) into the switch.
Pin 14 at the 17 pin connector, van side, runs to pin number 2 on the door release motor/actuator. Pin 1 of this connector will be ground.

It may be worth checking your BCM that no pins have been bent when you were putting the plugs back into it. Easy thing to do, I did it recently on my one and lost all comms with the door locks, was a bent pin not making contact with anything. Its real easy to do especially with the tight location of the BCM and connecting them blind.

The only other wire from the barn door loom that is needed is the rear lid contact switch, located in the latch itself. This is Pin 9 on the barn door loom, van side, Brown wire with blue trace stripe. this needs to be connected to the tailgate loom 17 pin plug at pin number 9.

The above is just for confirmation for you. As I said the "short to plus" makes me think that you may have 13 and 14 the wrong way around (just a thought).

 

[HoopDub]

here is what I have on the BCM coding with regards to the tailgate swap. The Bits with check marks and no description I haven't changed and were checked when i had the van in its original state. So I have no idea what they do.

 

[djmeeg]

Ok so wiring, just to confirm the extra 2 wires required in the tailgate swap run from the BCM T73a Black plug, pin number 23. This wire is for outer handle release switch. This wire needs to go to the tailgate wiring harness plug T17o, 17 pin connector at pin number 13.

The next wire from the BCM T73a Black plug pin number 10. This wire is for the rear lid release motor. This wire needs to go to the tailgate wiring harness plug T17o, 17 pin connector at pin number 14.

Ok so I have run these wires to the tailgate from the bcm myself fishing it all the way through the van. I did test before hand with the testing function on vcds. I was able to operate the actuator. I also test the wire for the soft button for the external handle. If I earth it the actuator would trigger. The only problem is I am not sure if the tail gate was open or not ie whether the latch was registered as fully closed. As this seems to stop everything working. Thinking I had it working I installed the loom. To find I am still having the same problem ! To my annoyance. But in short those wires are correct pins in the bcm and do work when you open the latch fully.

If you have cut off the 17 pin plug and now don't remember what wires were in pin 13 and 14, (made more difficult as they are all white wires into the tailgate, as you know). You can use a multimeter and continuity check where the wires go.
Pin 13 at the 17 pin connector, van side, this wire then splits, one runs to pin number 1 on the outer handle release switch connection. Pin 2 of this connector will be ground. The other wire splice goes to the childproof lock switch via a 2 pin connector, pin number 1. Then out of that connector (now a grey wire) into the switch.
Pin 14 at the 17 pin connector, van side, runs to pin number 2 on the door release motor/actuator. Pin 1 of this connector will be ground.

Ok so I am quite confused by this section. I don’t have a child lock ? Also accessing the tailgate plug is pretty much impossible now as it’s fully converted and carpeted etc. I don’t see any mention of any additional wires needing to be run from the bcm in order for it to work. But maybe this is the trick I am missing. Unfortunately I really don’t understand what you’re telling me to do. I thought it was pin 23 at the bcm that if earthed releases the tailgate ? That’s all I need to connect to the handle switch and an earth. That should then have the bcm send signal to power the actuator and release the tailgate ?

It may be worth checking your BCM that no pins have been bent when you were putting the plugs back into it. Easy thing to do, I did it recently on my one and lost all comms with the door locks, was a bent pin not making contact with anything. Its real easy to do especially with the tight location of the BCM and connecting them blind.

The only other wire from the barn door loom that is needed is the rear lid contact switch, located in the latch itself. This is Pin 9 on the barn door loom, van side, Brown wire with blue trace stripe. this needs to be connected to the tailgate loom 17 pin plug at pin number 9.

The above is just for confirmation for you. As I said the "short to plus" makes me think that you may have 13 and 14 the wrong way around (just a thought).

Pin 13 at the 17 pin connector, van side, this wire then splits, one runs to pin number 1 on the outer handle release switch connection. Pin 2 of this connector will be ground. The other wire splice goes to the childproof lock switch via a 2 pin connector, pin number 1. Then out of that connector (now a grey wire) into the switch.
Pin 14 at the 17 pin connector, van side, runs to pin number 2 on the door release motor/actuator. Pin 1 of this connector will be ground.

I am not sure how I can mix pin 14 and pin 3 up. As I have ran the wires directly from the bcm into the tailgate now. There is a size difference due to voltage being sent over the wire which powers the actuator. I definitely have the wires going to the correct place.

What I don’t get is why it only works when either the latch is either ajar or open. I can activate the actuator either by pressing the handle on the outside of the tailgate or by pressing the unlock button on the fob. Nothing works when the latch is fully closed.

 

[HoopDub]

The child lock switch is in your picture, post #305, well, the back of it is, its near the latch, you can only access it when the tailgate is open, you use your key to operate it.