Brake disc and pad upgrade options

Opie oils Bosch brand pads though I think ECP / GSF are reasonable - just go for a brand you recognise like brembo, pagid, mintex

I’ve always avoided EBC after a poor experience 40 years ago so possibly ill founded now!
 
The plastic hose clamps are about a tenner and you’re just pumping out the surplus fluid in the caliper via the bleed nipple. Clamped off stops dirty fluid going back up the pipe and air getting in as you wind the piston back in.

Its definitely clockwise to wind it back in! No need to remove the hose - just clamp it and open the bleed nipple like you would bleeding the brakes. Sounds complicated but fairly straightforward.
 
 
Good link. I have mine to do T32 so the bigger front disks. Pads and new disks sitting in garage after VW said they were on the limit .... guess what they are not! worn yes but a few thousand left and fronts probably at 50%. I will grab some of the above as better than using mole grips

in the past I have just pushed fluid back into the reservoir and collected over spill but the idea of just letting it bleed out makes sense

To the original OP - I looked at Euro Car Parts etc and prices vary but in the end went to Nutexa Frictions Ltd. They are trade members on here and usually offer a discount to forum members. Have some very good reviews and their customer service was excellent. Product looks good but not got round to fitting yet

Not sure how to post a link but dive onto their web site
 
I’ve recently done my rears and used the discs and pads from Nutexa who feature on here. I’m very pleased with them. The discs have a high carbon content and don’t get surface rust even when the van stands for a week or more. Can’t really say they have improved braking performance as the rears do so little.
However, good quality, British made and cost £150 for rear discs and pads next day delivery. Came with the caliper bolts too.

 
Let me get this straight in my miniscule brain. If i clamp the break hose and open the bleed nipple, when I wind the piston back in, the tiny volume of break fluid between the piston and the nipple will be forced out through the nipple. No air will get back in so no bleeding required...
 
Correct - clamp, open the bleed nipple, wind it in, tighten bleed nipple.

I’d have all your kit ready to go incl bit of tube and a bottle for the waste fluid. I wouldn’t go make a brew mid process but open long enough to wind the piston in is fine.
 
No air will get back in so no bleeding required...
I would recommend bleeding, it’s no extra work as is changing the brake fluid.
Not one of the jobs to get wrong or miss steps.
You have VIP membership, the manual is available to download.
The caliper bracket bolts need to renewed not re-used as they are stretch bolts.
Torque settings need to be followed.
Brake disc wear needs to be measured.
Disc run out should be checked with a DTI whether they are renewed or not.
 
I would recommend bleeding, it’s no extra work as is changing the brake fluid.
Not one of the jobs to get wrong or miss steps.
You have VIP membership, the manual is available to download.
The caliper bracket bolts need to renewed not re-used as they are stretch bolts.
Torque settings need to be followed.
Brake disc wear needs to be measured.
Disc run out should be checked with a DTI whether they are renewed or not.
I have none digital vernier callipers and no torque wrench... and am getting overwhelm... :confused:

Will have to get this all figured out somehow and formulate a plan.

Thanks to all
 
I have none digital vernier callipers and no torque wrench... and am getting overwhelm... :confused:

Will have to get this all figured out somehow and formulate a plan.

Thanks to all
The costs of running a vehicle need to be considered when purchasing, especially a needy T6.
Tools are a good investment and the £12 for VIP membership is cheap access to the necessary info’.
 
Thanks DXX. I obviously considered the costs. However, I didn't budget for an £800 outlay in the 1st month - this is after purchasing ghost The van is off the road til payday. I have already got VIP membership so no need to sell it to me.

Will hopefully have this sorted out soon and more tools :grin bounce: .

Thanks once again to all for kind advice.
 
When I did my fronts I bought all the parts including torque wrench, axle stands, hydraulic jack, long 9mm(?) allen key and performance discs and pads for less than I was quoted by the garage just to do the swap.
Draper torque wrench from tool station is about £35.
 
T28, 6.1 150

My fronts are looking a bit low, so what are you guys using when replacing OEM or aftermarket?

Any recommendations welcome, thanks in advance
 
T28, 6.1 150

My fronts are looking a bit low, so what are you guys using when replacing OEM or aftermarket?

Any recommendations welcome, thanks in advance
 
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