Having seen a few people using dryer duct to feed warm air upstairs, and looking for a more permanent installation, would there be space either inside the metalwork of the pillar or under the trim to run a small duct up from a hole cut in the rear part of the bottom vent up to near roof level and then break it out at the top to direct warm air into the roof bed area?
Some duct like the intake one on the burner side of these cheap chinese diesel heaters? About 25mm dia.
Edited to add... There is enough space to get a length of 25mm duct up inside the two B pillar panels. I am looking at teeing in to the bottom duct feed and putting an outlet up at roof level to feed warm air into the pop top for cold nights
IMG20190124123727.jpg
 
Last edited:
Buy the correctly specified ducting rated at 150° or more, I quite often see hot spots of over 140° when testing heaters. Normally it is too hot up the top! Intake ducting is only suitable for intakes as it is cool air.
 
7AD25DC8-99C2-4B55-A0C5-C3E45B35F571.jpeg
I was thinking of this kind of duct but in a smaller diameter to hide it in the B pillar, either inside the metalwork or between the metal and plastic cover. The inlet ducting I have is the same material.
 
I don't think there is enough room behind the metal nor to pass the seatbelt mechisnum.

Plus,if your using the OEM ducking via B pillar then def no room for additional duct.
 
Last edited:
Think your best bet would be to create a false channel between the rear window and the back of the B'pillar.. and cover it in a material.
 
My plan was to use a 60mm blast gate on ebby ducting and 'T' off below van, run it up into van between window(fixed panel) and B pillar..witu blast gatr at floor level
 
Ultimately; what @Fish said. You’ll never get any duct work right up to the top of the b-post.
 
I just test fitted my Webasto Airtop 3500 this afternoon. I don’t know yet wether to go down the OEM vent route or the two pipes through holes under the drivers seat.
I have used a stainless bracket off eBay but to me seems to place the heater too high and rearwards for the OE ducting to fit or is it that my 3500 is too big to use the OE ducting?
Even if I go the other route it still seems too far back?
Any help or advice graciously accepted (-:
Andy.


upload_2018-12-29_17-3-3.jpeg

upload_2018-12-29_17-2-12.jpeg
 
I didn’t realise the standard one was the 3500. I knew the case size was bigger than the 2000, it’s the same as the 5000 and wondered if the 3500 was going to be too much, but obviously not if that’s the standard one. If you have the bracket that would be great, save me looking for one!
Please let me know what you want for it, appreciated thank you.
Andy.
 
£50 for bracket, correct exhaust silencer and intake silencer. Postage is £11.50 via Parcelforce.
Cheapest I can do it for- even for a fellow Bamboo Green owner!:) ( List price for new bracket = 100 euro, silencer is 139 euro )


img-1009-copy.jpg
img-1011-copy.jpg
 
All my parts arrived from @oldiebut goodie yesterday and started the fitting today. Excellent parts supplied at a great price, knows his stuff also.
 
Back
Top