Thanks, covered all the important points.
[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Question for @Dellmassive if I may.
I have a T6 Shuttle and have an AGM leisure battery under the driver's seat, to charge phones, power 12v lights and to run a Vevor diesel heater. I have the Solar Suitcase from Renogy, which works great. To charge the leisure battery when driving, is the simplest thing the Renogy DCC50S? I see it will simply connect the vehicle battery to the leisure battery and I can plug in my solar if it's a sunny day.
I know I may need to supply a live feed from the ignition to only switch the until on when the ignition is on, but I'm sure I can learn more about that when it comes time to fit and commission it.
Cheers, Dave C
I have a T6 Shuttle and have an AGM leisure battery under the driver's seat, to charge phones, power 12v lights and to run a Vevor diesel heater. I have the Solar Suitcase from Renogy, which works great. To charge the leisure battery when driving, is the simplest thing the Renogy DCC50S? I see it will simply connect the vehicle battery to the leisure battery and I can plug in my solar if it's a sunny day.
I know I may need to supply a live feed from the ignition to only switch the until on when the ignition is on, but I'm sure I can learn more about that when it comes time to fit and commission it.
Cheers, Dave C
Yep basically as you say.
You can also run it alongside you existing Renogy suitcase as it is....
You don't have to wire your solar panels into the DC-DC charger.
You will need to install the wire and fuse kit as required....
They also offer two versions, 30A and 50A.....
You may find the 30A version suitable for a 100ah AGM....
Also you can set the charge profile and current limit from the APP.... So you can set at 10 or 20A if you wish.
Thanks again Dell,
I looked at the price difference between the 30 and the 50 and it's something like £20-£30 so buying the larger capacity would future proof it.
Now I need advice on thickness and length of cables. I assume I can hook the neutral of the leisure battery to the chassis to save running a second return line. How long to I need to buy for the live and what guage do people use?
Cheers, Dave C
@DaveCrampton
yes,, id get the 50A too ( i have that version )
download the manual for the unit. . .
it tells you all you need to know wuith cable gauge and fuse requirements. . .
...
yes,, id get the 50A too ( i have that version )
download the manual for the unit. . .
it tells you all you need to know wuith cable gauge and fuse requirements. . .
...
Cheers Dell, I didn't realise the manual give cable lengths also!
id go for 4AWG cable
with MIDI fuses and holders . . .
+++
and crimps . . .
and crimpers. . . .
www.t6forum.com
with MIDI fuses and holders . . .
+++
and crimps . . .
and crimpers. . . .
Battery cable crimping tool recommendation please
As per the title. Lots of options but the reviews are mixed at best, though anything I buy will not see anything more than light use. Been looking at the hydraulic options, like this ColdShine Hydraulic Crimper Tool Kit Tube Terminals Lugs Battery Cable Wire Crimping Force: Amazon.co.uk...
Hi Dell, quick question please.
Anderson connectors. The smallest is 50A, but online suggests the max cable size is 14mm. I have 16mm. Do you think the smallest Anderson connectors would be enough for the Renogy DCC50V?
Thanks. Dave C
Anderson connectors. The smallest is 50A, but online suggests the max cable size is 14mm. I have 16mm. Do you think the smallest Anderson connectors would be enough for the Renogy DCC50V?
Thanks. Dave C
I use the SB50 grey Anderson connectors, on the Renogy dcc50s charger.
Not sure on the max cable size as it depends on the supplier as some have larger openings.
You can use thicker cable for a longer run, then use a midi fuse connector to change cable gauge for the last bit .
Not sure on the max cable size as it depends on the supplier as some have larger openings.
You can use thicker cable for a longer run, then use a midi fuse connector to change cable gauge for the last bit .
I will place my question again.
I have playstation 10A, two fridges 5A + 5A and ctek 250 dc-dc charger and 110ah AGM leisure battery.
So if i start with empty (15-20%) battery and keep useing around 20A i will never be able to charge my leisure battery?
I have looked at cteck smartpass 120s, it can give 120A. Can my AGM battery take this charge?
I would like to have my battery (110ah) full after 2 houers of driveing.
I have playstation 10A, two fridges 5A + 5A and ctek 250 dc-dc charger and 110ah AGM leisure battery.
So if i start with empty (15-20%) battery and keep useing around 20A i will never be able to charge my leisure battery?
I have looked at cteck smartpass 120s, it can give 120A. Can my AGM battery take this charge?
I would like to have my battery (110ah) full after 2 houers of driveing.
Simple answer, no. You’re asking too much of a 110Ah lead acid battery. For a start, regardless of the charger, you won’t put 120A into a 110Ah battery. The battery simply won’t accept it. If you upped the charging voltage to force 120A (the Ctek won’t) into the battery, you’ll boil it dry in a very short time. A 110ah battery would take around 15-20 amps max.
PS5 is rated at 350w
Thats
But the PS5 will need an inverter to get the 240vac... Then factor 85% conversation efficientcy.
So I'd expect 10-25A draw from the 12v system when it's running..... That's a fair load on a SLA battery.
You won't get much run time..... May 3-5hrs untill the battery will be flat.
..
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350w @ 12V is close to 30A
It is 350w at 220v.
My AEG 1500w inverter display reads 110w at 12v.
Talking about cteck smartpass 120s, the main feature is it can feed the electrical devices from the generator and at the same time charge the leisure battery.
At the moment useing the cteck 250se at 20A chargeing current I am useing 20A at the same time, so very little chargeing is taking place?
Yes.
But watts in power is the same either on 12v or 240v.... Granted the current will change.
Anyway to answer you question....
If your drawing 20A from the battery bank.
And your CTEK recharge at 20A then the net effect as you say will be next to nothing.
Adding the smart pass to the setup will allow up to 120A to be pulled from the starter battery / alternator while the engine is running.
But the smart pass is effectively just a fancy relay and not a smart charger.
How much current your leisure battery will pull in addition to your loads depends on its internal resistance.
Its normally that a good charge current would be 10/20% of the battery capacity. (So 10-20A for an 100ah AGM,)
....
You might be better off looking at upgrading to a lifepo4 battery and fitting a more powerful dc-dc charger.
Personally I’d buy a pack of cards & a colouring book
With the Renogy DCC50S, when I connect my solar suitcase, would I bypass the MPPT attached to the solar panel?
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