Yes. You need to connect the suitcase panels direct to the dcc50s, and not use the suitcase controller.
Most people install a quick disconect under the seat for this purpose.... So you can add in panels as needed when camping or other.
[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Most people install a quick disconect under the seat for this purpose.... So you can add in panels as needed when camping or other.
Yes, I did this, this afternoon. I need to double check I have got the cables the right way around before connecting though.
Panel POS to the controller solar input.
Panel NEG to body ground, 0v point, either chassis, battery or dc-DC neg connection.
Use a multimeter to check polarity from the panel in day light.
Oh, I know this. But I fed the cables out and from memory of which connector was the live, cut that in isolation, popped on a fuse and then the Anderson crimps. Then popped them into the connector. Then cut and crimped the neutral and popped them into the connector. I know I have the right cables on the right connections to the DC to DC charger, I'm just unsure if I put the fuse on the right cable to the PV. It appears easy enough to remove the Anderson terminals if I haven't put the correct ones in the pos & neg.
Nipped out to the garage to ensure the red cable from the PV is the opposite to the fused cable end in the van.
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I got this answer from Cteck support:
"Thank you for contacting CTEK!
D250SE and Smartpass will charge your AGM battery in a smart way"
I guess "smart" meaning it will not "boil" the battery.
I presume, if i am useing D250SE and 120S together I will get the power straight from car alternator to the consumers (inverter) and charging of the leisure battery will happen at maximum possible amps.
Hi @Saffa365 you don’t run a negative to starter battery on T6.1 you run the negative from the Dc to Dc charger to an earth point. I have a Sterling B to B fitted by a professional and they ran a negative to the starter battery but info I got off the forum said to run the negative to an earth point which mine now does under the drivers seat.
John
Chassis or chassis side of an earth shunt if you have one.
I didn't when I installed mine. If you are concerned you could and also install a star washer to ensure a good conductive contact. But I didn't, as I said, and my DCC50 is working well under my passenger seat.
Durite DC-DC charger - That looks suspiciously like a REDARC BCDC1240D?
including the same 32v VOC and wire connection fly leads - - hmmmm?
i think they are OEM the Redarc. . . either way it looks great, and the Redarc is an awesome charger
+++++++++++++
This new 40A charger from Durite featured dual inputs, combining both alternator and solar charging into an efficient, compact and rugged unit. It works with 12V or 24V alternator systems (both standard and 'smart' alternator types) to provide a suitable 12V, 3-stage charging profile for all lead-acid batteries and LiFePO4 batteries. Installation is straightforward with no configuration required - simply select your battery type and you're ready to go (smart alternators require an ignition feed) - and the charger is fully automatic in operation.
The in-built solar controller can convert up to 400W of solar power and uses Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology to get the best possible performance from your panel(s). A series of LEDs indicates the active charging source, the charge status and enables fault-finding, and there are multiple protection features built-in including over-voltage at input/output, under-voltage and high temperature. Designed for harsh environments and with an IP66 protection rating, this charger features an aluminium body and fan-less cooling and can work in temperatures up to 80°C (although it is recommended to install away from heat sources to maintain full charge output).
The charger is supplied with splice connectors and heat-shrink sleeving, should you need to extend the cables, and should be installed as close to the auxiliary/leisure battery as possible to minimise the effects of voltage drop on the charger output.
Features
including the same 32v VOC and wire connection fly leads - - hmmmm?
i think they are OEM the Redarc. . . either way it looks great, and the Redarc is an awesome charger
Durite DC-DC Charger & MPPT Solar Controller - 12/24V 40A
Durite DC-DC Charger & MPPT Solar Controller 12/24V 40A. Accepts up to 400W of solar & works with standard & smart alternators. Suits all battery types 0-852-30
www.12voltplanet.co.uk
+++++++++++++
This new 40A charger from Durite featured dual inputs, combining both alternator and solar charging into an efficient, compact and rugged unit. It works with 12V or 24V alternator systems (both standard and 'smart' alternator types) to provide a suitable 12V, 3-stage charging profile for all lead-acid batteries and LiFePO4 batteries. Installation is straightforward with no configuration required - simply select your battery type and you're ready to go (smart alternators require an ignition feed) - and the charger is fully automatic in operation.
The in-built solar controller can convert up to 400W of solar power and uses Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology to get the best possible performance from your panel(s). A series of LEDs indicates the active charging source, the charge status and enables fault-finding, and there are multiple protection features built-in including over-voltage at input/output, under-voltage and high temperature. Designed for harsh environments and with an IP66 protection rating, this charger features an aluminium body and fan-less cooling and can work in temperatures up to 80°C (although it is recommended to install away from heat sources to maintain full charge output).
The charger is supplied with splice connectors and heat-shrink sleeving, should you need to extend the cables, and should be installed as close to the auxiliary/leisure battery as possible to minimise the effects of voltage drop on the charger output.
Features
- DC-DC charging and MPPT solar charging combined
- Can be used with standard and 'smart' alternators (Euro 5 / 6)
- Suitable for 12V or 24V alternators (auto-detection)
- 12V charging profile
- 40W maximum continuous charge current
- Max. solar open circuit voltage of 32V DC (N.B. do not exceed)
- Suits all battery types including LiFePO4
- Supports up to 400W of solar power
- Multiple protection features
- Lithium battery BMS 'wake-up' function
- Low standby current (<15mA)
- 95% efficiency
- Plug & Play installation (requires ignition feed for smart alternators)
- Robust construction for tough operating environments
- IP66 protection
Is it possible to connect a smart charger to this so that it charges my starter battery or would I have to run cables back to the battery?.Durite DC-DC charger - That looks suspiciously like a REDARC BCDC1240D?
including the same 32v VOC and wire connection fly leads - - hmmmm?
i think they are OEM the Redarc. . . either way it looks great, and the Redarc is an awesome charger
Durite DC-DC Charger & MPPT Solar Controller - 12/24V 40A
Durite DC-DC Charger & MPPT Solar Controller 12/24V 40A. Accepts up to 400W of solar & works with standard & smart alternators. Suits all battery types 0-852-30www.12voltplanet.co.uk
View attachment 187758
View attachment 187755
+++++++++++++
This new 40A charger from Durite featured dual inputs, combining both alternator and solar charging into an efficient, compact and rugged unit. It works with 12V or 24V alternator systems (both standard and 'smart' alternator types) to provide a suitable 12V, 3-stage charging profile for all lead-acid batteries and LiFePO4 batteries. Installation is straightforward with no configuration required - simply select your battery type and you're ready to go (smart alternators require an ignition feed) - and the charger is fully automatic in operation.
The in-built solar controller can convert up to 400W of solar power and uses Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology to get the best possible performance from your panel(s). A series of LEDs indicates the active charging source, the charge status and enables fault-finding, and there are multiple protection features built-in including over-voltage at input/output, under-voltage and high temperature. Designed for harsh environments and with an IP66 protection rating, this charger features an aluminium body and fan-less cooling and can work in temperatures up to 80°C (although it is recommended to install away from heat sources to maintain full charge output).
The charger is supplied with splice connectors and heat-shrink sleeving, should you need to extend the cables, and should be installed as close to the auxiliary/leisure battery as possible to minimise the effects of voltage drop on the charger output.
Features
Important - only to be used with solar panels that have an open-circuit voltage (Voc) of 32V or less. Greater voltages may damage the unit and will void the warranty.
- DC-DC charging and MPPT solar charging combined
- Can be used with standard and 'smart' alternators (Euro 5 / 6)
- Suitable for 12V or 24V alternators (auto-detection)
- 12V charging profile
- 40W maximum continuous charge current
- Max. solar open circuit voltage of 32V DC (N.B. do not exceed)
- Suits all battery types including LiFePO4
- Supports up to 400W of solar power
- Multiple protection features
- Lithium battery BMS 'wake-up' function
- Low standby current (<15mA)
- 95% efficiency
- Plug & Play installation (requires ignition feed for smart alternators)
- Robust construction for tough operating environments
- IP66 protection
I was then going to plug the charger in as I have a socket behind the drivers seat so then when I plug the van into hook up it will charges the main battery.
Thanks
see here about chargers. . .
Tip: as you say get a smart charger, plug into the 240v when on hook up, then connect to starter battery via clips, quick disconnect, obd2 port, 12v dash socket etc
- Charging:
- Battery Chargers - How I Did It -
- Battery Charging - Main Battery Earth Point -
- Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It --
- [Guide] Battery Maintainer (for Starter battery) -- How I Done It --
- Which Jump Starter?
- Seat Base Electrics, EHU+Charger+solar+install - How We Done It -
- Noco Genius 10 not working correctly
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Dell,
Spot on, Dcdc charger is the way to go so I'm into but have 1 question.
What is the output from the alternator on 2016 T6?
I need to size the cable from the alternator/starter battery to my 30A dcdc charger. Mine is at the back of the van so around a 7m cable run which will be under the chassis.
Thanks again for a great article.
the standard alternator is 140A,
the uprated factory unit is 180A.
as for cable size . . . this is what victron recomend for a 30A charger.
.
16mm2 for 5-10m
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see more here:
Dellmassive’s "How I Done It" blogs.
-- Dellmassive`s -- "How I Done It" -- thread -- ************************************************** Dellmassive`s -- "how I Done It" -- Thread ************************************************** Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --...
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I am currently running a 1200w induction hob off a 230Ah lithium battery - works great but obviously sucks a bit of power. i have a Ctek250se 25A dcdc and 160 w of solar on the roof. i want to get a bit more charging amps into the L battery. recently discovered you can put 2 DCDC chargers together to get say 50A, this should wk ok as i think you have said alternator is putting out 140A.
so if i put say 2 x ctek 250se's together how would i connect these togerther? and would the solar controllers just double up as well? i realise they would be subject to the wattage of the panel/s
or is there a better option??
Thanks
so if i put say 2 x ctek 250se's together how would i connect these togerther? and would the solar controllers just double up as well? i realise they would be subject to the wattage of the panel/s
or is there a better option??
Thanks
Your ctek is 25A max and split with solar... so you feed cables from the engine bay will prob be to small to handle two d260se's.
That would mean running a second new cable set to feed the second charger.
If that's the case then you will better off upgrading your DC-DC charger to say a Renogy 50A or 60A unit..
With new cable feeds. Then run your solar on a seperate mppt controller. Example as a Victron 100/20. That way you can use all the engine charge power, plus all the solar power too .... and with the Victron you can add in another 200w mobile solar panel to get you 360w pv charging.
That's what I would do.
That would mean running a second new cable set to feed the second charger.
If that's the case then you will better off upgrading your DC-DC charger to say a Renogy 50A or 60A unit..
With new cable feeds. Then run your solar on a seperate mppt controller. Example as a Victron 100/20. That way you can use all the engine charge power, plus all the solar power too .... and with the Victron you can add in another 200w mobile solar panel to get you 360w pv charging.
That's what I would do.
If you want to double up dc-dc chargers, you just run them all in parallel along with all other chargers, ie EHU, and solar etc.
Just make sure all power cables are suitable and correctly fused.
They will all run indipentantly at there own pace, Victron will link together with there local BT connection.
Just make sure all power cables are suitable and correctly fused.
They will all run indipentantly at there own pace, Victron will link together with there local BT connection.
The ctek 250se has a cousin that it works well with the ctek smartpass 120s it allows you to pass through up to 120amps. or basically run an item from the alternator.
Just buy it and it comes with the coupling cables. You may need to update your cable from main battery to the DC charger as going from 20 amps to 120 amps.
Just buy it and it comes with the coupling cables. You may need to update your cable from main battery to the DC charger as going from 20 amps to 120 amps.
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