[Guide] Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
Excellent - I knew I'd seen similar done. Ta muchly. I've ordered the 100W and a BM gizmo, so will hopefully test some winter sun soon and report back.
Should there not be a fuse in there at the battery end?
EDIT: Re-reading further, it's already answered pages ago - no fuse needed between solar and CTEK.
Last edited:
Yes as above..
Fusing and isolation switches are important on domestic and commercial systems due to the very high power they can generate.
Traditionaly what we would have on the van or mobile is bellow 400w and classed as much safer and shouldn't cause an issue.
Having said that a safe means of PV disconnection should be part of any system, even if its just an insulated MC4 PV connector on the incoming line.
Also note that all PWM and MPPT controllers state the the PV conection is "last on, first off" meaning that the battery must always be connected to the controller before the PV side... (or PV controller damage could be possible)
Fusing and isolation switches are important on domestic and commercial systems due to the very high power they can generate.
Traditionaly what we would have on the van or mobile is bellow 400w and classed as much safer and shouldn't cause an issue.
Having said that a safe means of PV disconnection should be part of any system, even if its just an insulated MC4 PV connector on the incoming line.
Also note that all PWM and MPPT controllers state the the PV conection is "last on, first off" meaning that the battery must always be connected to the controller before the PV side... (or PV controller damage could be possible)
PMW vs MPPT
have a quick look here.
Solar PWM & MPPT Controllers - How I Done It -
Solar PWM & MPPT controllers - How I Done It - There is a lot of talk about Solar at the moment, and with spring not to far away i wanted to go over the whole Solar controller thing. The main components are the Panels themselves, the charge controller (whether that be stand alone or...
My personal Fav MPPT controller is the Victron Blue Smart for the Bluetooth and APP available for monitoring
Victron Energy MPPT 75|15 Charging Controllers : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive
Buy Victron Energy MPPT 75|15 Charging Controllers at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.
amzn.to
.
have a look at page 6 - loads there.
Link to Page-6 : https://www.t6forum.com/threads/guide-mobile-solar-panels-how-i-did-it.13225/page-6
and post #102 : https://www.t6forum.com/threads/guide-mobile-solar-panels-how-i-did-it.13225/post-265689
and post #105 : https://www.t6forum.com/threads/guide-mobile-solar-panels-how-i-did-it.13225/post-265768
continued from above: . . . . .
to test things i swapped out the controller for a Victron 75/15. MPPT . . . . . then BOOM !
.
My DOKIO 100W flexi folders arrived. Very lightweight, easily store between drivers seat and fridge and includes all the leads I'll need for now. All good so far. The sun disappeared behind cloud about 30 minutes before delivery.
The supplied controller looks a bit low rent/budget, but I'll be connecting via the CTEK mainly.
The supplied controller looks a bit low rent/budget, but I'll be connecting via the CTEK mainly.
It looks as though you can just plug USB devices in - says so on the controller. I'm testing it with the minimal sun we have to avoid a fireball, and the phone looks interested. I'll give a day on the dashboard tomorrow, croc clipped to the starter battery as a test.
excellent, shame about the sun thought.
that's a nice feature with DOKIO re the USB charging and is kind of unique to them from what I've seen.
Most stand alone solar controllers either PWM or MPPT require the battery to be connected.
post some more pics of the setup. =]
Bought & installed. Certainly has made the most of the sunlight today even if we got less than forecast it did better than the pwm one last week in all day sunshine.
Top tip, it needs the screws tightened up more than you realise for it to work properly.
Turns out, of course, I didn't have all the cables/connectors for the CTEK. These arrive tomorrow:
SAE to SAE 25' extension and Ring terminal to SAE for the CTEK. Plus a second BM monitor so I can leave one on each battery.
No sun here today, but I left it connected to the starter battery through the supplied controller. It was only producing 0.7A, but did some charging.
Sat on the screen facing south to the overcast Cumbrian sky
Showing some charging going on and the battery at 12.8V
Huge 0.7A harvest
and the record. I drove into town and back between 9am and 10am, then plugged the panels up. The two or three drops are the lights going on internally as I needed into the van a couple of times. So, it works without sun and through the PWM controller, but not much. I'll hook it up to the CTEK and leisure battery when/if the cables arrive. That battery's more in need of charge.
With the supplied controller, you can set the voltage at which it goes into float mode (irrelevant today obvs). Default is set to 13.7V - is it worth fiddling, or just leave at that?
SAE to SAE 25' extension and Ring terminal to SAE for the CTEK. Plus a second BM monitor so I can leave one on each battery.
No sun here today, but I left it connected to the starter battery through the supplied controller. It was only producing 0.7A, but did some charging.
Sat on the screen facing south to the overcast Cumbrian skyShowing some charging going on and the battery at 12.8V Huge 0.7A harvest and the record. I drove into town and back between 9am and 10am, then plugged the panels up. The two or three drops are the lights going on internally as I needed into the van a couple of times. So, it works without sun and through the PWM controller, but not much. I'll hook it up to the CTEK and leisure battery when/if the cables arrive. That battery's more in need of charge.With the supplied controller, you can set the voltage at which it goes into float mode (irrelevant today obvs). Default is set to 13.7V - is it worth fiddling, or just leave at that?
I've only just noticed that some panels are 18v and some 12v. If A=W/V, and we're after aH, what's the advantage of 18V? I presume they work 50% harder for any light levels, or remain useful at lower light levels?? Or, we're after W and so for any particular Ampage output, the extra 6V makes it 50% more bettered??
I'll freely admit I'm a Physics numpty.......
I'll freely admit I'm a Physics numpty.......
All the panels are slightly different... it depends on the individual cell voltage, then how they are individual connected inside the panel...all manufacturers are a bit different.
The main thing is the Watts the panel can generate. As you say w=v*a so two different 100w panels could have different native voltage. Whether it be 12v or 18v but the amps will differ to equate the same 100w output at test conditions.
The solar controllers job is to take that 100w and turn it into battery charge power via a charge profile.
Charging amps over time will equate to Ah....
An MPPT controller will eek out much more power than a PWM controller with the same panel.
For a basic PWM controller and panel setup.... the panel voltage needs to be at least 4v above battery voltage....so if you want to charge the battery to 14v, then you need 18v from the panel.... this is because PWM controllers just switch the panel voltage directly to the panel very fast.
If you have MPPT they can boost a lower panel voltage (say over cast day for example) and still charge the battery.
As you start looking into panels you will start to see subtle differences is the max voltage and max current they can generate..... and how that translates to its max power output.
Sun came out today, so had a proper play around, while doing domestic stuff. Connected the pigtail to the CTEK (ring terminal +ve/-ve and SAE connector poking out the front of the drivers seat). This didn't charge - just had a flashing power light which the manual suggests is "Current saving mode, no charging in progress". From what I can see this happens if the battery is under 5V - which it isn't as it runs the fridge/diesel heater. BM monitor attached to leisure battery indicates over 12V.
I connected the panel through the supplied PWM controller and croc clips straight to the leisure battery and the panels were giving up to 4.2A, with the battery charging up, to 13.75V over a couple of hours (cloudy intervals).
I added in the 8m extension cable I'd been using to the CTEK to check it was OK - all good, no volt drop apparent (it's 16AWG, though CTEK suggest 10AWG). There is a 10A fuse on the pigtail to the CTEK - not required, but surely not in issue (fuse looks fine).
It has to be:
a) connection problem on the pigtail (bought, not DIY and looks sound)
b) problem in the CTEK, though it works fine through the alternator.
I'll try to find time to refit the pigtail and check connections, but is there anything else it could be? The CTEK manual doesn't give too much away
I connected the panel through the supplied PWM controller and croc clips straight to the leisure battery and the panels were giving up to 4.2A, with the battery charging up, to 13.75V over a couple of hours (cloudy intervals).
I added in the 8m extension cable I'd been using to the CTEK to check it was OK - all good, no volt drop apparent (it's 16AWG, though CTEK suggest 10AWG). There is a 10A fuse on the pigtail to the CTEK - not required, but surely not in issue (fuse looks fine).
It has to be:
a) connection problem on the pigtail (bought, not DIY and looks sound)
b) problem in the CTEK, though it works fine through the alternator.
I'll try to find time to refit the pigtail and check connections, but is there anything else it could be? The CTEK manual doesn't give too much away
Pics, pics, pics.
get some pics posted of the ctek and setup. so we can see what you can see.
sound like the d250 isnt seeing the panel . . . .
make sure the red tag/sticker is removed.
make sure the solar pigtail lead is metal to metal contact.
make sure the pigtail lead is correct polarity - so the panel POS is going to the solar connection on the d250
make sure the SAE connector has metal to metal connection.
+++
To Test:
get a multimeter and set it to Volts DC, like this : https://amzn.to/3sYBgdn
put the probes across the SAE connector on the panel, you should see 18v or similar.
now add the extension lead to the panel,
test for the same voltage again at the end of the extension lead,
conect the pitail lead to the end of the extension lead . . test again for the voltage.
if you have followed the voltage from the panel all the way down to the pigtail lead. . . . then connect to the CTEK solar input and ground
+++
connect panel here SOLAR POS to panel IN and SOLAR NEG to the common ground/ top right.:
...
see here for similar issue before:
CTEK D250SE - Still having dramas, despite the very helpful forums!
Hi, Hoping someone can shed some light on my issues below please... hoping to go away soon! DC-DC CTEK D250SE New charger (with NO smartpass). 2x 100ah AGMs, 2x 100W (19v) Solar in series. My solar is intermittent every 70 seconds or so, but the correct lights are showing. It seems like this...
.
Cheers @Dellmassive - it's connected correctly, red tag removed etc. I'll admit to doing it without removing the seat......so will check connections tomorrow. Battery had gone in my little multimeter and it's a funky size, so I'll sort one tomorrow. Hoped it would be a quick job. Pleased to see the supplied PWM took the battery from 21% to 100% in a couple of hours though. If the CTEK is more efficient, it's job jobbed. The panels are just the same height as my kitchen pod, so 'disappear' between that and the driver's seat. Also they fit really nicely on the dashboard, with space either side to avoid partial shading as the sun swings round. Even a small amount of shade really drops the output, so panels running right across the dash would suffer shading from the A pillars.
* New Panels for 2021 *
Exciting times . . . I've added another two Lensun 100W Black flexible panels to my collection.
This is so i can now run 4x 100w on the one Victron 100/30 MPPT. (400W ish) - to charge the 138ah Lifepo4`s
The setup worked well over the last couple of camping trips using a mix of panels on one controller . . . now we have a nice matched set .
which leaves the other panels to setup a second Solar station (Disco Tent)
The aim is to get 2x separate mobile 400W systems running. (800w to 1KW ish) . . . via two Victron 100/30 MTTP that should charge the Lifepo4 battery banks @ 30A max each.
+++
Lensun 100W 12V ETFE Semi-Flexible Mono Solar Panel with Fiberglass back sheet which is much stronger than the White PET back sheet.
Perfect for RVs,Campers,Bus,Cars,Cabin,Boats,Yachts
Made of Newest Hight Efficiency 22% Monocrystalline PERC Solar Cells
Feature of PERC Monocrystalline solar cells
A High performance solar cells is the decisive factor for top quality solar modules.
* First-rate efficiencies and excellent output consistency.
* The uniform color of the cell surface looks more beautiful.
* PERC is a good improvement on the conventional standard solar cell, density of energy increases and also ROI.
* Advanced diffusion technique ensuring the homogeneity of energy conversion efficiency of the cell.
* PERC solar cells component efficiency is as high as 22%, generating more power per unit area. The conventional standard solar cell is only 18-19%.
The 5BB(5-busbar) technology that optimizes electricity collection and ensures optimal electricity yield from your system. And 5BB technology batter performance against crack than the other 2BB, 3BB or 4BB technology.
Electrical Information:
Peak power: 100W
Solar cell efficiency: 22%
Maximum power voltage: 18V
Maximum power current: 5.56A
Open circuit voltage: 21.24V
Short circuit current: 6.11A
Power allowance range: +/-3%
Maximum system voltage: 500V
Values at standard test conditions: Air Mass - AM1.5, Irradiance - 1000W/m2, Cell Temperature - 25°C
Material Information:
Laminated for weather resistance
Laminated with fiberglass + ETFE + Silicon cell + EVA + Tedlar
Solar cells: Monocrystalline
Dimensions: 960 x 670 x 2.5mm/38.6 X 26.4 X 0.1 inches
Net Weight: 3.5kg/7.7 lbs
Back sheet: Fiberglass
J-Box: IP 68 rated
Package Includes:
1x 100W ETFE semi-flexible solar panel with fiberglass back sheet
2x 1m x 2.5mm2 cables with MC4 connectors
+++++++++
for reference, here is the first two from last year . .
which are still here chilling out in the back garden . . . . Hanging out on the side fence.
They have been there through summer and winter, snow, rain and storms and are still good as new and in perfect condition.
The two new panels will be worthy additions.
+++
Exciting times . . . I've added another two Lensun 100W Black flexible panels to my collection.
This is so i can now run 4x 100w on the one Victron 100/30 MPPT. (400W ish) - to charge the 138ah Lifepo4`s
The setup worked well over the last couple of camping trips using a mix of panels on one controller . . . now we have a nice matched set .
which leaves the other panels to setup a second Solar station (Disco Tent)
The aim is to get 2x separate mobile 400W systems running. (800w to 1KW ish) . . . via two Victron 100/30 MTTP that should charge the Lifepo4 battery banks @ 30A max each.
+++
Lensun 100W 12V ETFE Semi-Flexible Mono Solar Panel with Fiberglass back sheet which is much stronger than the White PET back sheet.
Perfect for RVs,Campers,Bus,Cars,Cabin,Boats,Yachts
Made of Newest Hight Efficiency 22% Monocrystalline PERC Solar Cells
Feature of PERC Monocrystalline solar cells
A High performance solar cells is the decisive factor for top quality solar modules.
* First-rate efficiencies and excellent output consistency.
* The uniform color of the cell surface looks more beautiful.
* PERC is a good improvement on the conventional standard solar cell, density of energy increases and also ROI.
* Advanced diffusion technique ensuring the homogeneity of energy conversion efficiency of the cell.
* PERC solar cells component efficiency is as high as 22%, generating more power per unit area. The conventional standard solar cell is only 18-19%.
The 5BB(5-busbar) technology that optimizes electricity collection and ensures optimal electricity yield from your system. And 5BB technology batter performance against crack than the other 2BB, 3BB or 4BB technology.
Electrical Information:
Peak power: 100W
Solar cell efficiency: 22%
Maximum power voltage: 18V
Maximum power current: 5.56A
Open circuit voltage: 21.24V
Short circuit current: 6.11A
Power allowance range: +/-3%
Maximum system voltage: 500V
Values at standard test conditions: Air Mass - AM1.5, Irradiance - 1000W/m2, Cell Temperature - 25°C
Material Information:
Laminated for weather resistance
Laminated with fiberglass + ETFE + Silicon cell + EVA + Tedlar
Solar cells: Monocrystalline
Dimensions: 960 x 670 x 2.5mm/38.6 X 26.4 X 0.1 inches
Net Weight: 3.5kg/7.7 lbs
Back sheet: Fiberglass
J-Box: IP 68 rated
Package Includes:
1x 100W ETFE semi-flexible solar panel with fiberglass back sheet
2x 1m x 2.5mm2 cables with MC4 connectors
+++++++++
for reference, here is the first two from last year . .
which are still here chilling out in the back garden . . . . Hanging out on the side fence.
They have been there through summer and winter, snow, rain and storms and are still good as new and in perfect condition.
The two new panels will be worthy additions.
+++
@Dellmassive - Sorry to keep with the questions - I've done a fair bit of reading on this, without shedding much light on it........
On a dull day (like here today), would you expect the 100W panel to register no voltage on a multimeter? It briefly shows a figure which then returns to zero (meter set to 20V). It would show the current - only around 0.5A, which matched the reading on the display when run through the PWM controller. This was the same for any combination of wiring, so my cables are fine. Should I not expect a Voltage reading if really overcast, even though there is current (or is it the brief reading which drops to 0)?
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