[Guide] Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -

This is what I was expecting. I couldn’t see why CTEK would spec the same gauge of cable on input and ground unless there was current flow in both.
Now I see.... certainly true when the solar panel feed (also the negative) is brought via CTEK terminal- was expecting it to be connected to common chassis ground (missed that part in early post - apologies) to minimize number of connections/losses. So actually the cable requirement would be just the same as for the solar panel feed?
 
Basic question so apologies in advance.

I just want to use a small 50w panel to keep the starter topped up and then also buy a larger foldable panel for topping up the leisure when camping.

For the time being If I buy a 50w panel plus a Victron 75/15, can I simply connect them using suitable connectors and plugging into the dash top 12v socket. ?

Can this set up be left permanently connected so no reverse battery drainage occurs or do you have to disconnect each evening?

Also what size cabling would be required?

A panel like this perhaps?
 
Last edited:
Basic question so apologies in advance.

I just want to use a small 50w panel to keep the starter topped up and then also buy a larger foldable panel for topping up the leisure when camping.

For the time being If I buy a 50w panel plus a Victron 75/15, can I simply connect them using suitable connectors and plugging into the dash top 12v socket. ?

Can this set up be left permanently connected so no reverse battery drainage occurs or do you have to disconnect each evening?

Also what size cabling would be required?

A panel like this perhaps?
Dash top 12V socket works when there is only starter battery installed (no factory installed second battery). Victron can be left permananetly - the drain is not significant, approx. 20mA.

For short runs I'd use 1.5mm² wire - it carries safely up to 10 Amps but is still flexible (could go even down to 1.0mm²).

What I have found tricky even at these current levels is the connection between the plug and 12V socket. Quite often the (cheapish) plug is making surprisingly poor contact and thus significantly warm up - usually just the center pin of the plug. So check yours after 30 mins of sunshine - first time.
 
Dash top 12V socket works when there is only starter battery installed (no factory installed second battery). Victron can be left permananetly - the drain is not significant, approx. 20mA.

For short runs I'd use 1.5mm² wire - it carries safely up to 10 Amps but is still flexible (could go even down to 1.0mm²).

What I have found tricky even at these current levels is the connection between the plug and 12V socket. Quite often the (cheapish) plug is making surprisingly poor contact and thus significantly warm up - usually just the center pin of the plug. So check yours after 30 mins of sunshine - first time.
Many thanks. I don’t have a factory 2nd batt but I do have a leisure batt and ablemail DC-DC etc etc. My thinking is a 50w panel will effectively trickle the starter without triggering the ablemail DC-DC. Rather than the dash cig socket I’m happy to connect straight to the starter batt via a quick connect with the ground to a suitable earth and not the neg side of the batt. Does that make sense?
 
Many thanks. I don’t have a factory 2nd batt but I do have a leisure batt and ablemail DC-DC etc etc. My thinking is a 50w panel will effectively trickle the starter without triggering the ablemail DC-DC. Rather than the dash cig socket I’m happy to connect straight to the starter batt via a quick connect with the ground to a suitable earth and not the neg side of the batt. Does that make sense?
Makes sense - of course could try the dash socket - there are also good plugs. Certainly good point to not to use battery negative - not to confuse van's energy management too much.

I'm pretty sure the DC-DC charger will be triggered to charge the leisure battery (if it is of that type which is triggered when input voltage is high enough). The 50 W (about 4 Amps) panel is quite powerful and will pretty soon raise the starter battery voltage high enough. So that's good thing - two birds...one stone.

I have a kind of similar setup - 4 Amp charger (EHU) connected into starter battery and second battery is "behind" CTEK Smartpass. Pretty soon the CTEK is triggered and the "overflow" will be fed into second battery. I use this setup to keep both batteries topped up (mainly my concern in winter).
 
Suns out again...

So showing the love for these semi flexible panels.

They are waterproof and are designed to be outside indefinitely.

These Lensun flexible panels have been outside for the last few months now.. and working great. (The others have been on the roof for a year or so now.)

I'm starting to prefer the flexible panels over folding panels in the situation where they can be left outside in the rain etc.



The max these will take on is 50w ...

So its good to see them making the most of the panel.

20200621_133858.jpg

One box is on the flexible 110w.

The other is on the 50w folding panel .
.
20200621_133855.jpg


There both out in the sun...


20200621_133831.jpg


This is the 50w Bluefusion. (Similar to the ACOPower one)

.
20200621_133824.jpg


I made up some 3mtr MC4 to MC4 extension cables out of 2.5mm2 2 core so I could put the boxes in the shed out the direct sunlight and possible rain shower...
20200621_133815.jpg


.

Loving the free power.....

One of the boxes will be powering the fathersday Garden party later today.... phones, lights, speaker etc.

20200621_132127.jpg
 
Yes it is...

That's one of the two.... 50w dash panels I use (just for that purpose) ..

Just out on the floor and charging the battery pack.
 
The lensun 110w panel is too large for the dash....

But works great on the roof... with a magnet or two.

.
 
Keep reading the threads and finding some more info I'd missed.
Does the Ctek 250 have auto VSR function. I'm planning on a 50w dash panel?
 
The CTEK has an MPPT solar input. Provided the open circuit voltage of the panel is below the max acceptable by the CTEK you can wire it in. It’ll charge the leisure and when charged will trickle the starter. I use a 50w Blue Fusion on the dash wired to the CTEK.
 
The CTEK has an MPPT solar input. Provided the open circuit voltage of the panel is below the max acceptable by the CTEK you can wire it in. It’ll charge the leisure and when charged will trickle the starter. I use a 50w Blue Fusion on the dash wired to the CTEK.
Ditto
 
Due to it being a Shuttle un converted the lights are working off the main battery so wanted the 50 panel via cig socket to charge that first and the check to open the current up to the leisure then starter battery is full.

Plan on a 200w portable panel to go into the Ctek controller to do the leisure. So hoping the Ctek will allow excess current both ways ?
Dell called this Auto VSR function from main Battery to leisure when no ignition on and engine not running.
 
I referred to the "Auto VSR"

As a feature of the dc-dc chargers I've tested where when static and say the doors and van is locked etc.

When the solar is connected to the dc-dc charger is will start charging the aux battery automatically, (without the IGN on)....

And then on to reverse charge the starter battery once the aux is full...

So "Auto VSR" does the ctek start charging automatically when the solar is connected and the ignition is off...
 
I referred to the "Auto VSR"

As a feature of the dc-dc chargers I've tested where when static and say the doors and van is locked etc.

When the solar is connected to the dc-dc charger is will start charging the aux battery automatically, (without the IGN on)....

And then on to reverse charge the starter battery once the aux is full...

So "Auto VSR" does the ctek start charging automatically when the solar is connected and the ignition is off...
Yes mate when static and locked and no panels connected to the Ctek directly only the 50w running on the dash board and via the cig socket. Just wondering if the Ctek will detect a full main battery and divert to leisure automatically.
 
if it’s plugged into the cigarette socket, the CTEK won’t switch between batteries. It’ll only charge the one that’s connected to the cigarette socket.

The CTEK needs a +12v signal from the ignition to start up.
 
if it’s plugged into the cigarette socket, the CTEK won’t switch between batteries. It’ll only charge the one that’s connected to the cigarette socket.

The CTEK needs a +12v signal from the ignition to start up.
Thanks mate, not trying to be a bumb ass. Just wanted to check. I'll run another cable to the Ctek so I can switch over as required (as suggested) :thumbsup:
 
if it’s plugged into the cigarette socket, the CTEK won’t switch between batteries. It’ll only charge the one that’s connected to the cigarette socket.

The CTEK needs a +12v signal from the ignition to start up.
Double check that as the other dc-dc chargers WILL startup WITHOUT the +IGN signal.

Provided the starter battery voltage is raised to around 13.2v ish. (Renogy & Redarc)

I've not tested a ctek.
 
Double check that as the other dc-dc chargers WILL startup WITHOUT the +IGN signal.

Provided the starter battery voltage is raised to around 13.2v ish. (Renogy & Redarc)

I've not tested a ctek.
I guessed you hadn't checked the Ctek, shame on you ;)
 
Hmm. Not sure now. If it’s on a (non smart) alternator it needs >13.1v for >5 secs for it to kick in. I could plug my van in to the mains, charge the starter to 13.8v and watch the CTEK I guess.

323FE80E-3DDA-4579-A9F9-7748351B5B5F.png
 
Back
Top