Heater only working at maximum

Thank you 'Search' box and another 'fault' club i've just joined :mad:

For reference 2017 T6 75k fan only working on speed 4 as all the above. Still under warranty, so might just let VW sort it out.
 
Wow a bit of googling shows it’s been a very common and longstanding Transporter problem for years. The old T5 forum is full of loads of discussions, some finding that replacing the fuse solved the problem, some finding it didn’t and needing a full resistor pack. Other posters pointed out that the thermal fuse is there to pull the power in the case of the motor jamming or stopping working, a very valid point as if that’s the issue then replacing the fuse would just cause it to blow again.

Anyway, a couple of useful videos, again thanks to links in the T5 forum (not transporter specific but it looks like VW use the same kit across all their vehicles, just the access to it would change)

Good find:thumbsup: and looks like a pretty simple job to do myself, albeit the fan motor a little more awkward to remove.
 
So glad I found this post. Mine is 4 months out of warrenty. Fan is only working on number 4.
I will be showing my dealership all the messages and asking it to be fixed on a goodwill as it's a common problem.
Thanks everyone. Xx
 
So glad I found this post. Mine is 4 months out of warrenty. Fan is only working on number 4.
I will be showing my dealership all the messages and asking it to be fixed on a goodwill as it's a common problem.
Thanks everyone. Xx

Mine goes in on Monday for new fan and blown resistor, all under warranty. The fix isn't difficult or expensive if you just follow the YouTube clips added within this thread.
 
Just found my replacement resistor pack has blown! So reading through the thread, I plan to service the blower bearings as this is obviously causing the fuse to blow.

Does anyone know the value to the thermal cutout fuse? Seems there are quite a few options.

Luckily, I kept the old resistor pack, so I plan on changing the fuse on that one (once I find the right value one to order) and then will extract the blower and see if I cant get that to run more freely. Come to think of it, I did notice that the blower sometimes ran faster when I put it in reverse for example???
 
The thermal fuses are 216 deg C I believe. Take a look at this thread: Blower Resister - How To Get To It?

The change in blower speed when going into reverse is the automatic vent shut off coming on. This is normal and is done to prevent fume intake.
 
The thermal fuses are 216 deg C I believe. Take a look at this thread: Blower Resister - How To Get To It?

The change in blower speed when going into reverse is the automatic vent shut off coming on. This is normal and is done to prevent fume intake.

Thanks for the fast reply - 5 on their way from a well known site. Should be with me on Wednesday. I look forward to lieing on my back hanging out the passenger door very soon.
 
Just found my replacement resistor pack has blown! So reading through the thread, I plan to service the blower bearings as this is obviously causing the fuse to blow.

Does anyone know the value to the thermal cutout fuse? Seems there are quite a few options.

Luckily, I kept the old resistor pack, so I plan on changing the fuse on that one (once I find the right value one to order) and then will extract the blower and see if I cant get that to run more freely. Come to think of it, I did notice that the blower sometimes ran faster when I put it in reverse for example???

Original thermal fuse has identifier 192KR1 which indicates 192°C ;)
 
Hi guys, this thread made me join up. Really good read, very interesting to know that position 1 heats things up so will try to avoid as was my normal setting and nice to see some experiments being conducted . I bought the T5 resistor pack (thanks T66 RUB) from eBay as it's cheaper than the T6 named version for the same thing. Anyway, replaced it today and works (for now) ..I also modified the airbox to allow better airflow cooling of the resistor. Pics attached.

Screenshot_20200417-150850.jpg
 
Welcome to the forum.

I also modified the airbox to allow better airflow cooling of the resistor

I don't really understand how that helps. The resistor pack is cooled by the flow of air flow in the duct across the device when the fan is running. Hence when on speed 1 there is less flow when there is also maximum resistance (more power to dissipate) and the pack could get hotter.

Drilling holes in the duct will reduce air pressure and flow in the duct and most likely will make things worse. :oops:
 
Thanks for the welcome..

It's not reducing any flow past the resistor, some escapes taking heat with it through the holes afterwards, the rest carries on as normal with a negligible loss of blown pressure.

IMG_20200417_124224.jpg
 
Did anyone with the "only works on 4" problem keep the faulty blower resistor pack please? Happy to pay postage
Thinking of making a plug-in PWM board for the blower, maybe make it variable rather than 1,2,3,4
Unless its already been done?
[Edit: its ok I bought one]
 
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I have just had mine repaired under warranty. The diagnosis over the phone was correct. They ordered the part in advance and all sorted. Always a sign of a common issue.
 
5.5mm seems to be the accepted size and usual culprit is the thermal fuse, I would suggest taking the blower motor out and cleaning up the motor and bearings as this is the likely cause of the fuse blowing.
 
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