Andrew Wilkinson
Member
Thanks. Are they an easy fix? Easily accessible? Or job for an auto electrician?
Heater only working at maximum
- Thread starter HHO
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I think everything is an easy fix but I design cars. This thread might help
www.t6forum.com
Heater Blower Speed
Hi Chaps Just noticed tonight my heater blower is only working on speed 4. I’ve got the manual Air Con, rather than climate. All other functionality works ok, just nothing blowing out until you select the fan blower at speed setting 4. Anything obvious to check? Any known issues? Thanks
Andrew Wilkinson
Member
Thanks Littleblackflash that's really helpful. I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend.I think everything is an easy fix but I design cars. This thread might help
Heater Blower Speed
Hi Chaps Just noticed tonight my heater blower is only working on speed 4. I’ve got the manual Air Con, rather than climate. All other functionality works ok, just nothing blowing out until you select the fan blower at speed setting 4. Anything obvious to check? Any known issues? Thanks
Looks like I've just been affected with this....
Never had this issue before with the other vans.
No blower speeds 1.2.3... only 4.
MY18 35k . . . (2yrs old)
So new blower resistor pack reqd.
It a warranty job so will book in and report back.
(Also need the drivers window looked at again as its loose and keeps dropping )
Service not due for 7k so too cold to wait for then . . . .
FYI I normally have the blower on 22 and 1st speed all the time.
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Never had this issue before with the other vans.
No blower speeds 1.2.3... only 4.
MY18 35k . . . (2yrs old)
So new blower resistor pack reqd.
It a warranty job so will book in and report back.
(Also need the drivers window looked at again as its loose and keeps dropping )
Service not due for 7k so too cold to wait for then . . . .
FYI I normally have the blower on 22 and 1st speed all the time.
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I also thought about the same thing but in my opinion it is safer approach to have single trip device rather than multiple.
On the other hand this resistor pack itself is a very robust component but I am convinced that VW purposely uses low quality thermal fuses (even though rated for correct temperature of 192°C). And this obviously works for VW cause they keep on making money on spare parts.
On the other hand this resistor pack itself is a very robust component but I am convinced that VW purposely uses low quality thermal fuses (even though rated for correct temperature of 192°C). And this obviously works for VW cause they keep on making money on spare parts.
I doubt it’s to do with making money in this case as the poor reliability will affect reputation rather than boost the coffers.
If the failure statistics do not reach the VW engineering department nothing will happen, big organisations despite thinking they are the best in class can be cumbersome when it comes to engineering change.
My last employer was a prime example, equipment failures costing a fortune but reporting procedures were not followed at all sites. When the engineering department finally spotted the issue their own complicated (self inflicted) procedures caused massive delays in getting some pretty simple changes.
Just saw this post. This happened on my van. Took it into a VW garage for them to have a look. I had already googled the problem, which told me it was probably the resistor. I don't really like messing about with motors so hence the visit to the garage. They managed to get the quote up to circa £550. I did it myself for the cost of the resistor.
550 quid??? That must be a typo, it’s a 15 min job.
No typo, the guy I spoke to went out to speak to a fitter who said that if the resistor had blown, then the chances are the fan blower would be faulty, so that would need replacing, plus fitting, hence the quote. The thing is, If I had a asked them to do it, a new fan blower would have been fitted as it would have been on the job sheet. As you can se, I don't have much faith in VW customer service.
Everybody check to see if we all have "MUG" on our foreheads! The motors surely cannot be failing so much in all these vans to cause all these fuse trips.
I bought a cheapish folding grill which expired after its second use, stripped it down and lo and behold the thermal fuse had blown. Work of the devil these non-resettable fuses - electric kettles have auto-resettable ones so why not use them more widely? Can't be safety as they will still keep cutting out if needed indicating that service is required.
I bought a cheapish folding grill which expired after its second use, stripped it down and lo and behold the thermal fuse had blown. Work of the devil these non-resettable fuses - electric kettles have auto-resettable ones so why not use them more widely? Can't be safety as they will still keep cutting out if needed indicating that service is required.
See the videos on page one of this thread, the blower motors can start to seize up through lack of lubrication and that's what draws more current, which in turn blows the fuse.
Anyone who repairs the resistor pack should take the time to give the blower motor the once over to ensure it's not just going to do the same thing again with the new pack.
Though I would use something like engine oil rather than WD40 on the bearings as it's not a good lubricant.
Anyone who repairs the resistor pack should take the time to give the blower motor the once over to ensure it's not just going to do the same thing again with the new pack.
Though I would use something like engine oil rather than WD40 on the bearings as it's not a good lubricant.
Yet the old motors would give up to 30 years service before reaching this stage - possibly the result of finer manufacturing tolerances?
Where is the motor in relation to the heating and cooling elements? Does it blow air through them or suck air through them. Could heat or cold or moisture be adding an element of lubrication drying or corrosion to the mix?
Another possible reason could be the cabin air filters that are fitted nowadays, as they become blocked it will impede airflow which the motor has to work harder to overcome.
Another possible reason could be the cabin air filters that are fitted nowadays, as they become blocked it will impede airflow which the motor has to work harder to overcome.
Oh sod it, just open a window!
Ian241
New Member
Just had this problem so inspired by the YouTube video from Aaanon, I did mine this morning and now its all working again. I can confirm the screws are a pig to get out as is the plug. Breeze VW quoted £433 - for the resistor and fan ! The resistor from GSF car parts cost me £12.74 bought a wiper blade whilst at it so free postage.
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My non-auto experience of electric motor maintenance is check the insulation, measure the current draw and monitor the bearing vibration. Only then do you start pulling things apart and replacing. Admittedly bigger units than a VW ventilation fan but the combined parts and labour isn’t cheap, faulty bearings should show as a high current draw.
My heater is now only working on '4' so it looks like the thermal resistor has gone (my T6 is 4 years old 33k).
Having read many of the posts on this thread I am shocked by some of the comments and the service some seem to have had from VW, this is a disgrace and not what we VWT6 users expect (they are far from being cheap vehicles) from the company.
Two questions that others may be able to answer: 1) Are VW still using the same thermal resistor if one buys a replacement from VW (in which case won't it just fail again in an unreasonable short period of time)? and 2) Can anyone recommend the best replacement that's proven to be reliable if one chooses a non VW one (where to get a part No)?
IMO as this is clearly a known VW fault VW should sort this for T6 owners FOC as that's what I'd call service!
Thanks
Having read many of the posts on this thread I am shocked by some of the comments and the service some seem to have had from VW, this is a disgrace and not what we VWT6 users expect (they are far from being cheap vehicles) from the company.
Two questions that others may be able to answer: 1) Are VW still using the same thermal resistor if one buys a replacement from VW (in which case won't it just fail again in an unreasonable short period of time)? and 2) Can anyone recommend the best replacement that's proven to be reliable if one chooses a non VW one (where to get a part No)?
IMO as this is clearly a known VW fault VW should sort this for T6 owners FOC as that's what I'd call service!
Thanks
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