Hillside Birchover

[Anakin]

@Phil TL where did they put the Victron MPPT in your install?

 

[Phil TL]

@Phil TL where did they put the Victron MPPT in your install?

In the large wardrobe the rear. Discussed a few options and that worked for us. I know I now cant ram the wardrobe chock full off clothes and bedding, potentially smothering and overheating the MPPT, which might be a concern for others who don't pack light.

 

[Captain Quick]

I’m in the process of installing solar into my Birchover. Having spent several months exploring the habitation electrics, I’ve decided to fit the MPPT controller (Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100 /30) on the vertical panel into the rear wheel arch locker (where the the water pump is sited) and replace the existing CBE hook up charger (with a Victron Smart IP65 Charger). Like you, I don’t want to put the controller in the wardrobe. (@EAN ‘s post #211 shows this).

I think it should be straightforward to connect the MPPT output to the +ve feed connector (the lower spade connector) at the back of the CBE fuse block (shown at the bottom left corner in the picture below), and the -ve to the rear chassis ground post (located in the water-heater cubby). I’ve calculated that this existing (6mm2 I think) red wire that runs from the leisure battery to the CBE fuse block should be sufficient to handle the output from the Victron controller. In your case, as you’re using a larger solar array, it might be necessary to run a larger diameter wire through the side of the van to the leisure battery. Speaking of which, I’ve decided to replace the factory-fitted Varta AGM with a Roamer 160Ah LiFePO4 fitted into the same location under the passenger seat along with a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger.

 

[Phil TL]

Exactly what the Solar Shack guy did, he found the cable from the charger to the leisure battery was 8mm^2 and was able to use that like you say, so didn't have to route another cable round the van.

I havent got into the void where the wheel arch is yet. EANs post looks like he got down to it from the cupboard above, I will look at it tomorrow.

 

[Captain Quick]

I havent got into the void where the wheel arch is yet. EANs post looks like he got down to it from the cupboard above, I will look at it tomorrow.

It’s really easy to access the water-pump locker. Open the rearmost locker under the countertop, then lift out the drop-in bottom panel. It’s a little bit awkward to work in there but certainly not impossible to install the Victron MPPT controller in there (as @EAN has shown with his EHU charger install). I figure that there’s enough airspace in there to keep the charge controller within its specified operating temperature range.

 

[EAN]

It’s really easy to access the water-pump locker. Open the rearmost locker under the countertop, then lift out the drop-in bottom panel. It’s a little bit awkward to work in there but certainly not impossible to install the Victron MPPT controller in there (as @EAN has shown with his EHU charger install). I figure that there’s enough airspace in there to keep the charge controller within its specified operating temperature range.

Yes, easy enough; I removed the hinged door from the external cupboard so it didn’t accidentally get damaged whilst I worked in there. I’m going to put my 2nd MPPT in there too (30A Victron - all planned out), but using the van has taken priority, so likely not to be done until this camping season is over now.
@Phil TL From working on my van, the main feed from front to rear was no bigger than 6mm2. If it was larger the crimp connectors wouldn’t have fitted. I’m definitely going to rewire front to back with larger and additional cabling, when time allows.

 

[Phil TL]

Yes, easy enough; I removed the hinged door from the external cupboard so it didn’t accidentally get damaged whilst I worked in there. I’m going to put my 2nd MPPT in there too (30A Victron - all planned out), but using the van has taken priority, so likely not to be done until this camping season is over now.
@Phil TL From working on my van, the main feed from front to rear was no bigger than 6mm2. If it was larger the crimp connectors wouldn’t have fitted. I’m definitely going to rewire front to back with larger and additional cabling, when time allows.

Thanks guys, will take a look and measure up to see what I can do about upgrading my charger in there.

Even with 6mm it is fine for mine as although it is 315W rated panel, he put a 100/20 MPPT in (290W rating), which he explained that the efficiency losses and actual chance of it generating 100% rating are low in the UK most of the time. Seemed reasonable but I will be checking in summer what it is generating in peak hours.

 

[Jamesie]

Hi, posted a question in the Electrics thread but will try here as I have a T6.1 Birchover. My electrics are currently completely standard but I'm planning to swap out my SCR for a Victron Orion XS DC to DC this week, ready to go Lithium in the near future (will de-rate the amps to 20A or so for now). Just looking for a bit of sense checking before I start on the electrics. So I've looked at the T6.1 wiring schematics and it looks like I can isolate the cable between the starter battery and the existing SCR under the passenger seat by disconnecting at SJ2 which is the left most red cable in the pic below...


Next on to the seat base. I've trimmed the plastic factory fit fuse / relay holder that bolts under the front passenger seat. Once I've isolated the SCR from both batteries, I'll remove the relay and connect the engine and leisure battery lives up to the Orion DC to DC, and I have a new earth cable to run from it to the under-seat earth point. Will also move the engine running wires over to the new Orion too. I have an A5 piece of perspex ready to bolt on to the plastic fuse / relay cradle and bolt the Orion DC to DC to that. I was a bit surprised to see the cable from the VSR to the leisure battery has a 200A Midi fuse (SG1) and was planning to follow Victron suggestions by changing this fuse to a 60A. Am I missing anything? thanks