L/Battery - go large or go lithium?
- Thread starter Chris1983
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- dc - dc charger victron vsr
Won't doing that allow the solar to charge the battery in really cold weather though?
I wasn’t sure whether a scenario would present whereby I may want leisure electrics off, but Solar on? Or am I overthinking it? Instead should just add a small switch to turn DC to DC off on the occasion I am using van but want leisure battery sat at 50%,
Am I grasping? Or overthinking
Am I grasping? Or overthinking
Overthinking 
A small switch in the ignition signal to the DC-DC is an easy retrofit if you need to do it later. Get it done, use it, find out what works for you.
A small switch in the ignition signal to the DC-DC is an easy retrofit if you need to do it later. Get it done, use it, find out what works for you.
So stick Solar positive into busbar near lb?Overthinking
A small switch in the ignition signal to the DC-DC is an easy retrofit if you need to do it later. Get it done, use it, find out what works for you.
And do I need battery protect Victron?
Thanks so much
Yep, just make sure it's got the 20/25a fuse next to the busbar.
And the battery protect - keep it if it's already in place, it will cut off your 12v devices if the battery gets low - I don't have one but if I've ever used 200+ah of battery (plus solar) then I think I'll know about it!
Random beeping might be carbon monoxide sensor?
Yeah, straight to busbar near LB with fuse as mentioned above. You already have a cut off switch for the solar on the incoming side. Also your battery has built in heater and a BMS to prevent any cold weather issues.
Hadn’t bought battery protect won’t if not essential
That's more like it, now the voltages match.
Remember to set your shunt settings!
Remember to set your shunt settings!
Cool, and do I need to buy battery protect you think? My usage is quite low compared to others it would seem
I wouldn't bother, they were more used for AGM batteries as you didn't want them to go below 50% - with LiFePO4 you can discharge to 0% without much impact (although don't do it all the time).
Aim for 20% as your "I should charge soon" and 10% as your "turn everything you can off" level.
If you run a LiFePo to the level the BMS cuts off you can sometimes have an issue getting them to charge - as there is no voltage at the battery terminals many chargers will assume they are disconnected and shut down - and without an incoming voltage the BMS will not reconnect the terminals. There are ways around it but easier to avoid that situation.
Don't stress about it, just remember not to run it dead flat, like you wouldn't drive your van until it was out of fuel, and life will be easy.
If you run a LiFePo to the level the BMS cuts off you can sometimes have an issue getting them to charge - as there is no voltage at the battery terminals many chargers will assume they are disconnected and shut down - and without an incoming voltage the BMS will not reconnect the terminals. There are ways around it but easier to avoid that situation.
Don't stress about it, just remember not to run it dead flat, like you wouldn't drive your van until it was out of fuel, and life will be easy.
You say don’t run out of fuel but I must admit I playing diesel roulette trying to get the wife to fill her up
Only been caught out once haha
I understand your thinking but I think you may be thinking too hard!
LB isolator is primarily for totally isolating the LB for maintenance or the rare occasion you may want to turn the leisure system off completely.
Solar panel isolator again is for maintenance and to prevent solar charging when you don’t want it.
A switch on the ignition signal to the DC-DC is purely to prevent it charging when the engine is started.
Your ip65 mains charger is also switched at the plug so you can stop it charging if you plug in EHU.
I find I only ever use the main LB isolator for maintenance as I want to be able to use the LB regularly, even if it’s just to pop a light in in the back while rummaging in the dark.
I use the DC-DC and solar switches regularly as I don’t need or want the LB constantly topped up to full every time the sun comes out or I start the van. When I am off camping I just pop them on to top up. In reality the DC-DC is vary rarely needed and I’ve not even bothered to fit my ip65 as I don’t use EHU now I have lifepo4 and solar. Freedom from EHU was the whole point for me.
As RT says the ignition signal switch is a very easy upgrade at a later date so don’t worry now.
That looks much better. Nice one
Heroes every one of you!I understand your thinking but I think you may be thinking too hard!
LB isolator is primarily for totally isolating the LB for maintenance or the rare occasion you may want to turn the leisure system off completely.
Solar panel isolator again is for maintenance and to prevent solar charging when you don’t want it.
A switch on the ignition signal to the DC-DC is purely to prevent it charging when the engine is started.
Your ip65 mains charger is also switched at the plug so you can stop it charging if you plug in EHU.
I find I only ever use the main LB isolator for maintenance as I want to be able to use the LB regularly, even if it’s just to pop a light in in the back while rummaging in the dark.
I use the DC-DC and solar switches regularly as I don’t need or want the LB constantly topped up to full every time the sun comes out or I start the van. When I am off camping I just pop them on to top up. In reality the DC-DC is vary rarely needed and I’ve not even bothered to fit my ip65 as I don’t use EHU now I have lifepo4 and solar. Freedom from EHU was the whole point for me.
As RT says the ignition signal switch is a very easy upgrade at a later date so don’t worry now.
I’ll tidy up all wires tomorrow and fit a switch to Dc to Dc and then that’s me done!
Bloody marvellous the support received !
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