Orion 12/12/18 keeps switching off

View attachment 268829Driving back today. Changed nothing. All seems to be charging fine, no intermittent switching off.

For clarity. Which voltages should match? Presumably the DC to DC input is the alternator (so 14v) but the mppt and shunt should be the same as leisure battery? Is that correct?
Sorry, alternator is the input so lower than output?!
 
View attachment 268829Driving back today. Changed nothing. All seems to be charging fine, no intermittent switching off.

For clarity. Which voltages should match? Presumably the DC to DC input is the alternator (so 14v) but the mppt and shunt should be the same as leisure battery? Is that correct?
The output voltage on the DC-DC (when on) and the ‘battery voltage’ on the shunt and MPPT should all be the same as they are (should!) be showing the voltage of the LB. It’s odd that they are all showing very different voltages and the differences seem to change randomly. That it me indicates a connection issue. If they were consistently different that would lean more towards a voltage drop / resistance issue.
 
There seem to be some issues, either perceived or real around the Orion DC-DC charger.
Here’s my theory:-
When using an ignition live to trigger the Orion.
The charger basically runs to suit the demand of the LB, regardless of what the SB or Alternator is doing. If the alternator is charging, then it will draw from the alternator. If the alternator is off, the Orion will draw from the SB and appear as any other load would, e.g heated screen, seat heaters etc. this will cause a drop in the SB & the alternator will kick in, and so the cycle continues.

Using the “Engine Detection” facility built into the Orion.
This is totally dependent on what the alternator is doing, ergo the SOC of the SB.
So if the SB is charged, the alternator shuts down & the engine detection in the Orion shuts down the charger, DEPENDING ON THE VOLTAGE SETTINGS IN THE ORION.
In this scenario, the Orion is controlled by the Alternator not vice-versa as in the switched live feed scenario.
I think this could account for many of the odd behaviours that folks see, which might not actually be odd behaviour, just the way the 2 control methods work.

As I said, this is just a theory & may be way of the mark.
Discuss
 
There seem to be some issues, either perceived or real around the Orion DC-DC charger.
Here’s my theory:-
When using an ignition live to trigger the Orion.
The charger basically runs to suit the demand of the LB, regardless of what the SB or Alternator is doing. If the alternator is charging, then it will draw from the alternator. If the alternator is off, the Orion will draw from the SB and appear as any other load would, e.g heated screen, seat heaters etc. this will cause a drop in the SB & the alternator will kick in, and so the cycle continues.

Using the “Engine Detection” facility built into the Orion.
This is totally dependent on what the alternator is doing, ergo the SOC of the SB.
So if the SB is charged, the alternator shuts down & the engine detection in the Orion shuts down the charger, DEPENDING ON THE VOLTAGE SETTINGS IN THE ORION.
In this scenario, the Orion is controlled by the Alternator not vice-versa as in the switched live feed scenario.
I think this could account for many of the odd behaviours that folks see, which might not actually be odd behaviour, just the way the 2 control methods work.

As I said, this is just a theory & may be way of the mark.
Discuss
I wouldn’t know where to begin to discuss. But I do have two new streams of info that may may not help?! Or just raise more questions.

Swapped driving with wife to allow me to study Victron shenanigans.

A) noted when I turned the DC ti DC off in settings, the Solar kicked in (weak sun) and when I switched dc to dc back on, that stopped Solar?! Surely both should be putting energy in at once if driving and sunshine is out?

See pic-8F79BE07-B38F-4CBA-B1E2-A2A38304F708.png

And after driving for approx 2hrs, no the d the input voltage dropped to 12. Something. Which then triggered the five sec on/ off cycling of dc to dc status.

Note at this point the LB did not charge beyond 2-3% over a while, see pics. Is this because of the 80% thing mentioned?! Eg, leaving space for braking regen/ charge thing?

AC1D0392-5943-4B5E-A948-2435DCBC1242.png
AEA4DEB2-256D-4082-8B1E-020235D6E80C.png
 
The output voltage on the DC-DC (when on) and the ‘battery voltage’ on the shunt and MPPT should all be the same as they are (should!) be showing the voltage of the LB. It’s odd that they are all showing very different voltages and the differences seem to change randomly. That it me indicates a connection issue. If they were consistently different that would lean more towards a voltage drop / resistance issue.
So same guidance, work from LB and check every connection?

Could I throw some £ at an electrical auto engineer? Would this detective work be a simple task for someone with the skill/ kit/ experience?
 
I wouldn’t know where to begin to discuss. But I do have two new streams of info that may may not help?! Or just raise more questions.

Swapped driving with wife to allow me to study Victron shenanigans.

A) noted when I turned the DC ti DC off in settings, the Solar kicked in (weak sun) and when I switched dc to dc back on, that stopped Solar?! Surely both should be putting energy in at once if driving and sunshine is out?

See pic-View attachment 268836

And after driving for approx 2hrs, no the d the input voltage dropped to 12. Something. Which then triggered the five sec on/ off cycling of dc to dc status.

Note at this point the LB did not charge beyond 2-3% over a while, see pics. Is this because of the 80% thing mentioned?! Eg, leaving space for braking regen/ charge thing?

View attachment 268837
View attachment 268838
What charging profiles are you using on the various Victron devices. They should be all the same profile. I have a custom profile for my SuperB battery & I shared it across my Mains/solar/Orion, this means they are all singing from the same hymn sheet & not fighting each other.
 
What charging profiles are you using on the various Victron devices. They should be all the same profile. I have a custom profile for my SuperB battery & I shared it across my Mains/solar/Orion, this means they are all singing from the same hymn sheet & not fighting each other.
Is this from app settings?
 
Is this from app settings?
Yup, in the app, each device will have a dropdown box with the charging profiles. There are some “stock” profiles that will suit most purposes. Each device needs to be using the same profile.
 
As above, think forum members where helpful on how to set those up in initial install.

Is it a problem I mentioned whereby dc to dc seems to overuse MPPT (deduced by switching DC to DC off and solar jumping to life?)

Is that how that should work?
 
As above, think forum members where helpful on how to set those up in initial install.

Is it a problem I mentioned whereby dc to dc seems to overuse MPPT (deduced by switching DC to DC off and solar jumping to life?)

Is that how that should work?
Typo not overuse but kinda take precedent, and cause MPPT to stop allowing Solar charge in?
 
I wouldn’t know where to begin to discuss. But I do have two new streams of info that may may not help?! Or just raise more questions.

Swapped driving with wife to allow me to study Victron shenanigans.

A) noted when I turned the DC ti DC off in settings, the Solar kicked in (weak sun) and when I switched dc to dc back on, that stopped Solar?! Surely both should be putting energy in at once if driving and sunshine is out?

See pic-View attachment 268836

And after driving for approx 2hrs, no the d the input voltage dropped to 12. Something. Which then triggered the five sec on/ off cycling of dc to dc status.

Note at this point the LB did not charge beyond 2-3% over a while, see pics. Is this because of the 80% thing mentioned?! Eg, leaving space for braking regen/ charge thing?

View attachment 268837
View attachment 268838
As previously mentioned the “Battery Voltage” readings all look wrong. They should be virtually the same. Are all the outputs of the devices connected together very close to the smart shunt. The Orion & MPPT need connecting to the Smart shunt as close as possible with the same size & length of cable. Something is amiss currently (see what I did there?)
 
Typo not overuse but kinda take precedent, and cause MPPT to stop allowing Solar charge in?
In an ideal world the devices would work in parallel & not override each other. My Orion & Solar work in tandem. On a sunny day whilst driving, I can get 40A into the LB. 30 from the Orion & 10 from the solar. They shouldn’t be mutually exclusive. I have the voltage fractionally lower on the mains charger, so that when I’m parked up on EHU & it’s sunny, the solar takes precedent. I think your issue is rooted in the discrepancy in the output voltages. Sort that & I think your problem will go away.
 
So as @ginkster suggests, manually check all connections starting from the LB working outwards. And if feeling fruity, after that, try and use a multi meter to discern discrepancies?

any thoughts on how straightforward this would be for an electrical engineer? Presume quite easy to unpick?
 
I have a suspicion some issue may link back to my rear wardrobe.

In that thread posted pictures of initial piggy backs etc and then introduced a bus bar.

The red cable from
MPPT ended up being routed through cupboards to battery under driver seat.

This obviously isn’t the same length (much longer) as negative cable. Could that account for anythjng?
 
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