Retrofitting powered Tailgate

Thankyou - I found your post on the VCDS forum about those issues. I'll modify the Kufatec loom, and start collecting parts.

Has anyone else had the same problem as you? I wonder if it could be caused by the old generation (7E0) PDC module. Some of us upgraded to a later one as part of the side assist retrofit, and it engages whenever there is an obstacle detected and you are stopped or travelling at low speed - not just when in reverse like the 7E0.
Yeah, I've done this mod but still failed to get PDC to integrate with the tailgate. I've gone through loads of scans of other vans with a factory powered tailgate both coding and adaptations. Mine is coded no differently to factory but I can't get it to work.
 
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Thankyou - I found your post on the VCDS forum about those issues. I'll modify the Kufatec loom, and start collecting parts.

Has anyone else had the same problem as you? I wonder if it could be caused by the old generation (7E0) PDC module. Some of us upgraded to a later one as part of the side assist retrofit, and it engages whenever there is an obstacle detected and you are stopped or travelling at low speed - not just when in reverse like the 7E0.
I decided not to complete PDC integration as it would affect my KESSY retrofit(foot operation - convenience tailgate opening).
 
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Hi all.
I am trying to finalise the setup of the powered tailgate this winter.
Could someone post more detailed pics of the cutouts you need to do to modify the non-powered tailgate for this mod?
We're spraying the car soon so it might be a good chance to make the cutout first and the paint over it as well...
 
Hi all.
I am trying to finalise the setup of the powered tailgate this winter.
Could someone post more detailed pics of the cutouts you need to do to modify the non-powered tailgate for this mod?
We're spraying the car soon so it might be a good chance to make the cutout first and the paint over it as well...
Have a look here

 
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Hi all.
I am trying to finalise the setup of the powered tailgate this winter.
Could someone post more detailed pics of the cutouts you need to do to modify the non-powered tailgate for this mod?
We're spraying the car soon so it might be a good chance to make the cutout first and the paint over it as well...
If you get a kit from Autoease you don't need to do any cutting, just a three holes for cables and a switch.
 
Have a look here

thanks!

If you get a kit from Autoease you don't need to do any cutting, just a three holes for cables and a switch.
I have gone a very long way to install the original parts - everything is purchased already so there is no way back, the investment was significant.
I have been following this thread for a while and was aware about the kits, just wanted to do it using original parts.
 
I did a kit install. Didn't have any cut outs to do. Only a few holes to drill for running new wire & fixing the button.
 
I have finally started. The two cout-outs are done. Just like Deaky's version, I didn't touch the second layer and hope it will be fine.

I do have a question about the ball studs.
The original ones at the top of the door don't seem to be long enough for the new struts (see pic). Do I need to get another part number for these? (Robert mentioned 7E5827439 - they go here?)

Also do I need to make the cutouts in the body? (door frame)

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I have finally started. The two cout-outs are done. Just like Deaky's version, I didn't touch the second layer and hope it will be fine.

I do have a question about the ball studs.
The original ones at the top of the door don't seem to be long enough for the new struts (see pic). Do I need to get another part number for these? (Robert mentioned 7E5827439 - they go here?)

Also do I need to make the cutouts in the body? (door frame)

View attachment 139083

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View attachment 139086

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You need to cut the other skin too. Yes, you have to change the balls on the tailgate. There is no modification required to the body of the van.

Are you using the custom brackets as detailed in @Robert and my threads?
 
You need to cut the other skin too. Yes, you have to change the balls on the tailgate. There is no modification required to the body of the van.

Are you using the custom brackets as detailed in @Robert and my threads?
It's a pity but I think I will manage the second layer as well.
Just to confirm, the studs need to be replaced with the part numbers given by Robert and then old ones go on the custom brackets?

Yes, I will be making the custom brackets as per the drawing. Thanks to all who worked on it!
The only thing I am not yet clear about is how to bend it with accuracy as per the diagram...

Another mod is also on the way (photo).

20211211_140957.jpg
 
Yes, I will be making the custom brackets as per the drawing. Thanks to all who worked on it!
The only thing I am not yet clear about is how to bend it with accuracy as per the diagram...
Maybe I can help with that. PM me your address and I'll post you a Christmas present :p
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Ok, the second layer is off. Whoever wants to repeat this process - take extra care not to damage the wires going through the tailgate to camera, lock etc.
I drilled right through, damaged a few wires and cut thru the screen washer tube. The tube was easy to repair - I installed a valve from toyota. This will prevent the fluid going back and thus I won't have to wait a long time for the washer to start working each time. Same valve is also installed for the front washers.

Looking forward to receiveing the Christmas present from Deaky to proceed with the install. Meanwhile another colour has been added to the car body :)
 
This retrofit is proving to be tricky so I wouldn't recommend it to the novice even if you get the kufatec loom.

First of all, the loom doesn't cater for parking aid. It is briefly discussed in this thread but I thought I'd mention that it is a useful feature in case you try to accidentally open the tailgate with another car behind you. We're past this part of the install and parking aid is now integrated using the standard schematic and a relay.

Secondly, the lower studs (which used to be upper studs before the retrofit) are snapping out from drives. This is quite dangerous in case both of them snap out and there is somebody under the tailgate.
I am going to order another pair of 7E5827439's to fit as the bottom studs onto the custom made bracket.

Also, I have had to make a longer cut in the tailgate (will post pics later).

Another thing, which was not mentioned on this thread is the fact that I will need a new remote key that has a tailgate button. Apparently you can not use the original keys from a non-motorized tailgate car to open the converted tailgate?
Here's a pic of my key:
20220116_174509.jpg

Besides everything, I think there is something wrong with the drives after they snapped out couple of times: they produce very loud noise when operating and I guess I will need to take them apart to see what's going on. @Robert any tips on what to look out for? (I know you took them apart as was shown on the video)

And finally, there are couple of additional parts which I suggest @Robert to add to the original required parts list:
1 x rubber seal at the top. I don't yet know the part number for it. Trying to find out.
2 x countersink bolts for the custom brackets. These can be reused from the original tailagate latch which you won't need if you install a tailgate soft close due to replacing them to longer bolts:
20220116_141104.jpg


Any ideas are welcome at this stage.
 
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... the loom doesn't cater for parking aid. It is briefly discussed in this thread but I thought I'd mention that it is a useful feature in case you try to accidentally open the tailgate with another car behind you. We're past this part of the install and parking aid is now integrated using the standard schematic and a relay.

Another thing, which was not mentioned on this thread is the fact that I will need a new remote key that has a tailgate button. Apparently you can not use the original keys from a non-motorized tailgate car to open the converted tailgate?
Here's a pic of my key:
View attachment 142003


Also tailgate power latching and 3 button key fob are required (I had both already).

Before you consider to upgrade your key fob check this out;)

And finally, there are couple of additional parts which I suggest @Robert to add to the original required parts list:
1 x rubber seal at the top. I don't yet know the part number for it. Trying to find out.
2 x countersink bolts for the custom brackets. These can be reused from the original tailagate latch which you won't need if you install a tailgate soft close due to replacing them to longer bolts:

4 x Hex Socket Countersunk bolt 10.9 M8 x 16mm 0,90 EUR
Rubber seal is irrelevant as I had it on my factory setup with non electric tailgate.
 
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Thanks @Robert, I have seen this video from Evgeni but we have not been able to replicate this so far :-(

The rubber seal does not come with most of the std Caravelles/Multivans without the motorized tailgates. I also never had it from the factory on my German multivan.
 
Where's the rubber seal go?

It definitely a cool mod to do!

I would always recommend the Hansshow kit I used. Comes with everything you need to convert a normal tailgate van into electric tailgate.
Although yes it doesn't work with the parking sensors it does have a low resistance tolerance.
So for example it i stand in the way the boot will stop closing as soon as it touches me and go back to its previous open state.

Think it was about £500/600 with the soft closing latch as-well. I haven't wired up to the remote yet but its easy to do.

The most difficult bit is running the new cables down through the actually metal tailgate. I still haven't gotten them down.
Every time I put some coat hanger style wire down it gets stuck.
Will probably just drill a cheat hole & plug with a grommet.
 
Where's the rubber seal go?

It definitely a cool mod to do!

I would always recommend the Hansshow kit I used. Comes with everything you need to convert a normal tailgate van into electric tailgate.
Although yes it doesn't work with the parking sensors it does have a low resistance tolerance.
So for example it i stand in the way the boot will stop closing as soon as it touches me and go back to its previous open state.

Think it was about £500/600 with the soft closing latch as-well. I haven't wired up to the remote yet but its easy to do.

The most difficult bit is running the new cables down through the actually metal tailgate. I still haven't gotten them down.
Every time I put some coat hanger style wire down it gets stuck.
Will probably just drill a cheat hole & plug with a grommet.

Unfortunately, I don't yet know the part number of the rubber seal. Without it the water from the carwash gets inside and also the snow melting is getting inside too.

I recommend buying one of those specialist pull-through kits, it helps a lot and there are high chances you will use it again somewhere else.

If I was to go back 1 year when I purchased the original parts, I would probably choose non-OEM approach. It's just has been too much for me personally in terms of effort.
 
Hi all.
Some progress here.
Electrics - all done and working nicely. Soft latch works well. Remote key works fine too.
Two alterations to factory setup have been done:

1. I don't think it's fair to the front passenger to have the tailgate open button in the drivers door.
Laser engraving on the differential lock button and here we are:

20220120_200758.jpg

2. I used the drivers door button kit to add another tailgate open button in the luggage compartment.
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This will serve 2 purposes - kids can open the tailgate from the back seat and I will be able to open the tailgate from the bed for a nice view in the morning.

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I also promised to share the part number for the rubber seal. Here it is: 7E0841790.
It is really required in my view - water goes in during the caar wash and snow/ice gets in as well. I will be getting one soon. It comes with self-adhesive tape.
Meanwhile, here you can see how it is installed: Установка уплотнителя ляды — Volkswagen Transporter, 2.0 liter, 2013 year on DRIVE2

The mechanical part is not over yet :-(
The drives keep snapping out from the ball joints and they are also making loud noises during operation. I think I will need to buy the new drives.
 
Folks, am I right in thinking the Kufatec retrofit loom for OEM tailgate runs down the headlining and A/B post?
And if so is the headlining in a Caravelle glued to the roof?
 
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Folks, am I right in thinking the Kufatec retrofit loom for OEM tailgate runs down the headlining and A/B post?
And if so is the headlining in a Caravelle glued to the roof?
Along the head lining and down the b pillar. You’ll need to extend the CAN wires as the loom is for RHD. The headlining is not glued, I doubt you’d need to remove it
 
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