Just adding to my cable install. The hardest part was to come. Tracking the OEM cable from the rear light on my pop top inner to the tailgate. Again 1.5mm cable core used along with my LED endoscope to see where the light passed through to help me guide. Once at the tailgate i ran through the OEM rubber protector (quite a tight and difficult passage to get through. Earth cable helped me there ). Then down the rear door. Along the tailgate and out through a hole near where the rear wiper motor would sit. Positioned above the rear motor position on the tailgate glass.
Reversing Camera - wiring harness route
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On the plus point an interior camera won't pick up road grime, but you'd need to ensure it was in the area swept by the rear wiper as, at least on my Caravelle, the airflow quickly covers the rear window in spray in rain.
Generally if you pull off the tailgate seal you should be able to get some access to the rear roof area.
Photo dump inbound.
Working from rear do I assume I would need to drill a hole into plastic around rear wiper housing?
I have also pulled rubbed off tailgate and shone a torche from a popped out spot light and can just about detect the light. So there is a tortuous route through.
Uncertain I would have skill to pick through that with cabling/ wire.
The plastic seatbelt bit in b pillar then can be peeled back to see into void going backwards into main van and forwards into cab (so presume that is the way to go).
Working from rear do I assume I would need to drill a hole into plastic around rear wiper housing?
I have also pulled rubbed off tailgate and shone a torche from a popped out spot light and can just about detect the light. So there is a tortuous route through.
Uncertain I would have skill to pick through that with cabling/ wire.
The plastic seatbelt bit in b pillar then can be peeled back to see into void going backwards into main van and forwards into cab (so presume that is the way to go).
If you pull off this seal (arrow - it's a grip seal so don't worry) you should be able to get more access, you don't have to do it all through the small hole for the tailgate flexible conduit.
You do seem to have a rear panel with lights and speakers that I think things would be much easier if you can drop that (circled)
You do seem to have a rear panel with lights and speakers that I think things would be much easier if you can drop that (circled)
Thank you.
I need to investigate further. Dash cam and extension wire for rear and low volt protection kit in route.
Can I ask, if I aim to run parking mode, I presume best to leisure battery rather than starter? Battery seems to live under drivers seat, so guess I’d need to find a fuse box served by leisure and piggy back off that?!
I need to investigate further. Dash cam and extension wire for rear and low volt protection kit in route.
Can I ask, if I aim to run parking mode, I presume best to leisure battery rather than starter? Battery seems to live under drivers seat, so guess I’d need to find a fuse box served by leisure and piggy back off that?!
If you have a secondary battery then yes using that for the camera would be wise if practical and you intended to use parking mode a lot.
I wouldn't piggy back though I would make sure that it's on its own circuit with a switch. There may be times when the you want to store the van for a while and minimise drain or you might want to make sure you get maximum runtime when camping (when a camera would be waking up all the time to record movement)
I wouldn't piggy back though I would make sure that it's on its own circuit with a switch. There may be times when the you want to store the van for a while and minimise drain or you might want to make sure you get maximum runtime when camping (when a camera would be waking up all the time to record movement)
If you get the wiring through you've done a lot of the work yourself. If you're really not confident with electrics then an auto electrician is a good idea, however you are talking relatively low current circuits here rather than battery charging so it's in the range of confident DIY.
Post some pics of your existing electrics (battery, fuse box, any switch or control panels) and folks can advise.
Post some pics of your existing electrics (battery, fuse box, any switch or control panels) and folks can advise.
I don’t know if any of the following pics of any use?!
Essentially. Think I have the leisure battery under driver seat with diesel heater.
A ‘house like’ breaker box in rear presumably for immersion heater thing and lights/ fridge etc.
And then near gear stick fuses which I used to have live feed for old front facing cam.
Essentially. Think I have the leisure battery under driver seat with diesel heater.
A ‘house like’ breaker box in rear presumably for immersion heater thing and lights/ fridge etc.
And then near gear stick fuses which I used to have live feed for old front facing cam.
If anyone has ANY thoughts on best way to power dash cam in parking mode (switches on when detects movement mode if that is how it works). Presumably leisure battery. But have only piggy backed off a fuse before. So if anyone has an idea re: switch as poster above has mentioned.
Of course all dependent on getting the bloody wires routed first!!!!
Of course all dependent on getting the bloody wires routed first!!!!
My plan ultimately will be to try and sort Solar too (split charging leisure and a battery pack (eco flow). Got a quote from hillside but seemed very high for a 100w panel (when I think more would be more sensible and I ‘think’ you can source full diy packs for a decent chunk less). I don’t know where the best site for Solar charge controller would then be too?! Sorry for all questions. I am but a new (and excited member of the t6 club!!
The advantage of going with Hillside is they probably have a designed solution in their layout, so there may be a space in the equipment in your van already if it was a "factory" option from them.
The regular converters will have optimised the use of space in the layout and know how everything goes together. That might be worth the premium over DIY - plus it will have a warranty on the work.
You're probably better off charging just your installed battery via installed panels. You can than charge your Ecoflow off one of the folding portable panels directly.
The regular converters will have optimised the use of space in the layout and know how everything goes together. That might be worth the premium over DIY - plus it will have a warranty on the work.
You're probably better off charging just your installed battery via installed panels. You can than charge your Ecoflow off one of the folding portable panels directly.
I'd investigate if you can access the rear of the small CBE fuse box here:
It should look like this on the rear with standard blade terminals (from 12voltplanet)
![CBE-4-fuse-module-grey[1].jpg](https://www.t6forum.com/data/attachments/223/223455-5d34b0f59352092f1927bcbf89c8fae4.jpg "CBE-4-fuse-module-grey[1].jpg")
You can get piggy back blade terminals that should fit on the outer 2 fuses or you can make up a short Y cable.
For switching as it's the CBE range a luxury solution might be to widen the existing cut out and put a 2 module surround in and a switch module, failing that a simple round on off should be an easy fit.
It should look like this on the rear with standard blade terminals (from 12voltplanet)
You can get piggy back blade terminals that should fit on the outer 2 fuses or you can make up a short Y cable.
For switching as it's the CBE range a luxury solution might be to widen the existing cut out and put a 2 module surround in and a switch module, failing that a simple round on off should be an easy fit.
You only have a 70ah leisure battery, which is about as small as they get. A 100w panel will generate a peak charging current somewhere around 7-8 amps which is about right for charging that capacity battery (0.1C)
What’s your thoughts on the external panel for the eco flow? (I am a relative Luddite so if obvious excuse me)
For Ecoflow and solar the person with extensive knowledge is @Dellmassive try this thread
www.t6forum.com
You can use any panels you like so long as they fit the requirements of the MPPT input (wattage and max voltage) and the solar DC terminals are pretty standard - the only proprietary bit tends to be the short lead from the power packs that present the solar DC terminals but that's often included.
The advantage of doing both is flexibility, you can take your power pack and panels to other events without the van or use them at home. You can also set up more panels than will fit on the van roof. And it needs no install work.
The downside is that you may not be comfortable leaving a set of panels charging the power pack set up outside if you leave the van for long periods on a campsite as they are not very securable.
Portable Solar Panel
Hi all, I have recently purchased a Bluetti AC200Max Portable Power Station and I’m looking to pair it with some equally portable solar panel or panels. I’m very much a novice when it comes to anything electrical hence I was hoping you might be able recommend me some good options. I was...
You can use any panels you like so long as they fit the requirements of the MPPT input (wattage and max voltage) and the solar DC terminals are pretty standard - the only proprietary bit tends to be the short lead from the power packs that present the solar DC terminals but that's often included.
The advantage of doing both is flexibility, you can take your power pack and panels to other events without the van or use them at home. You can also set up more panels than will fit on the van roof. And it needs no install work.
The downside is that you may not be comfortable leaving a set of panels charging the power pack set up outside if you leave the van for long periods on a campsite as they are not very securable.
It really depends on your use case.
A low voltage cut off is useful but it depends where it cuts off. If you regularly rely on it it's not ideal, it's more of a final safety net. The AGM starter battery in a modern 6/6.1 is worked hard so regular taking significant charge off it isn't ideal. The starter battery in a start stop van will never be fully charged anyway whereas I would hope your leisure battery is charged via DC-DC so will be.
Looks like the cutoff is 11.6v which is very low, about 20%
If you are only going to leave the van for "daily driver" periods then going for the main fusebox is simple and will work, but if you are wanting the camera to run for longer than that sort of period then either use the leisure or get yourself a hardwire kit with a more forgiving cut off or a configurable one.
A low voltage cut off is useful but it depends where it cuts off. If you regularly rely on it it's not ideal, it's more of a final safety net. The AGM starter battery in a modern 6/6.1 is worked hard so regular taking significant charge off it isn't ideal. The starter battery in a start stop van will never be fully charged anyway whereas I would hope your leisure battery is charged via DC-DC so will be.
Looks like the cutoff is 11.6v which is very low, about 20%
If you are only going to leave the van for "daily driver" periods then going for the main fusebox is simple and will work, but if you are wanting the camera to run for longer than that sort of period then either use the leisure or get yourself a hardwire kit with a more forgiving cut off or a configurable one.
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