Seat Base Electric + EHU + Solar Install + Charger + DC-DC -- How We Done it --

[Deaky]

Deak's can ya share the MPPT load output/voltronic standby circuit diagram please?

many thanks

Ha not enough

thank you !!

stu

Load output +ve to Votronic l (BORD).
Votronic ll (START) to Starter battery +ve

the -ve connections on the Victron MPPT are common so no need to connect this

then configure the load output to switch on at a set battery voltage eg when your LB is full

 

[Soundz]

@Deaky....buddy first up apologies for the slow reply ,ha life is a train ride just now.......................second, thanks for the reply above !! 3rd....... we have a 230 Ah roamer seat base.so LiFe PO4.an mppt victron 75/15 ( 150 W panel ) and the same orion B2B..so all in all a similar set up to your self slightly bigger batt tis all on looking at the voltronic it specificially states for use between lead acid or gel batts and specifically states not for use with a lead acid LiFe Po4 combination.........mate how are you getting around that?

I wired up the Mppt load out put ran cables to starter batt in my T5 but found when not in use power flows back through the load out put circuit and through the Mppt into my positive bus bar...............hence linking the 2 battery chemistries....made me think I either needed a diode( to stop current flowiing back or a device IE some form of battery charger to achieve similar results.

what am I missing ?

Thanks again

 

[Dellmassive]

An awesome rear cabinet build in a Ford Transit . . . #teamBlue

Lithium LifePo4 12v Batteries - Time For An Upgrade?

and a B2B charger a solar panel an MPPT some cable some heat shrink bus bars chrimper cable cutter stripper( we'll talk about that one later :rofl: ) mega or midi fuses..........it don't matter which type of van you have a combi a camper what ever.....there always gonna be a whole host of...

www.t6forum.com

.


.

 

[Deaky]

@Deaky....buddy first up apologies for the slow reply ,ha life is a train ride just now.......................second, thanks for the reply above !! 3rd....... we have a 230 Ah roamer seat base.so LiFe PO4.an mppt victron 75/15 ( 150 W panel ) and the same orion B2B..so all in all a similar set up to your self slightly bigger batt tis all on looking at the voltronic it specificially states for use between lead acid or gel batts and specifically states not for use with a lead acid LiFe Po4 combination.........mate how are you getting around that?

I wired up the Mppt load out put ran cables to starter batt in my T5 but found when not in use power flows back through the load out put circuit and through the Mppt into my positive bus bar...............hence linking the 2 battery chemistries....made me think I either needed a diode( to stop current flowiing back or a device IE some form of battery charger to achieve similar results.

what am I missing ?

Thanks again

The Voltronic is essentially just a big diode so if you are getting current flowing from the starter back to your MTTP then it's either faulty or connected the wrong way round.

With regards to the Lithium/Lead acid incompatibility. It's been said that because a lithium battery shows a higher voltage throughout it's charge cycle this could have a detrimental effect on a lead acid battery. However, and this is my opinion only, in this instance the voltronic is not connected to the lithium battery, it's connected to the MTTP load output. So rather than being connected to the leisure battery and ON 24/7, the voltronic is only on under certain conditions. Therefore if it is slightly higher voltage than it should be it will be less likely to cause any long term damage. Time will tell and this is a risk I'm willing to take.

 

[Soundz]

Thank you for your patience.............. that makes sense Deaky. I hadn't physically connected a voltronic in the path from load out put to starter battery just a fuse at both ends That's how I realized the current could flow back through the MPPT and then I immediately disconeccted said circuit when I realized what was happening.

Using the load out put like you have just to trickle charge the starter battery seems really logical ....that's why I ran the cables through , I'd been told it was possible ,.

We can just switch the load out put off in the connect app..so I figured I'd only need to use this circuit now and again.when the bus wasn't in use say for an extended period , so yes I understand your logic or opinion if you prefer.



Thanks mate a great help

 

[ChrisWatson]

Had a bit of an update to my underseat setup

100ah Renogy LiFePo4
Victron Orion 12-12-30 DC-DC charger
Victron Bluesolar 75/15 MPPT charger
OEM and new leisure circuit fuses relocated into a new fuse box with a bank of relays for switching circuits

View attachment 170773

Just down the side of the battery is a Victron Smart Shunt and a Votronic stand by charger to keep the starter battery topped up, controlled by the load output of the solar charger

View attachment 170772
Under the bonnet is a small CU for switching a charger for the leisure and starter batteries, there is no 240v in my van.

View attachment 170775

Theres a 4a Victron bluesmart charger hidden behind the starter battery

View attachment 170774
And a 15a Victron bluesmart charger fitted under the scuttle panel to charge the leisure battery

View attachment 170776
View attachment 170777

Hi @Deaky, I’m new to the forum but can tell you are the man in the know when it comes to batteries & electrics!

Is this the smart lithium battery?

Trying to work out the maximum height of 100ah LiFePo battery I can go to under my drivers seat (T6, no swivel).

The renology smart looks like 187mm tall, but the Roamer equivalent is around 220mm

Any tips welcomed! Thanks!

Chris.

 

[Deaky]

Hi @Deaky, I’m new to the forum but can tell you are the man in the know when it comes to batteries & electrics!

Is this the smart lithium battery?

Trying to work out the maximum height of 100ah LiFePo battery I can go to under my drivers seat (T6, no swivel).

The renology smart looks like 187mm tall, but the Roamer equivalent is around 220mm

Any tips welcomed! Thanks!

Chris.

The maximum height under the seat is 190mm. Both the Roamer and Renogy bluetooth batteries would have to lay on their side to fit. I have the non Bluetooth Renogy battery with a separate Bluetooth dongle. This can stand upright under the seat.

 

[ChrisWatson]

The maximum height under the seat is 190mm. Both the Roamer and Renogy bluetooth batteries would have to lay on their side to fit. I have the non Bluetooth Renogy battery with a separate Bluetooth dongle. This can stand upright under the seat.

Thanks Deaky, I’ve opted for the renology non-Bluetooth with the dongle option. Will add some pics to the seat base thread if I don’t blow myself up

 

[DaveCrampton]

I finally got to install my small AGM leisure battery which will run the diesel heater and power usb for phones etc. No inverter but that may happen if I need a later battery.
I swapped my double for a single passenger seat with swivel. This it turns out is important as the swivel bottom plate is lower than the seat base by some margin. I have a plate the battery is secured to which is bolted down using the middle spare rear double seat base stud. (Never remove anything until you are doubly sure you won't need it).
The carpet had to be removed from underneath to allow the battery to sit low enough so the terminals don't short to the seat base! (The driver's side has risers. I wonder if Kiravans sell risers separately?) Cover on as well! The DC to DC is the Renogy DCC50S and I have a Bluetooth module to monitor charging. Simple enough to install the Renogy App and connect to the BT module. I didn't have enough black 16mm^2 to route the battery to the charger so used red with black heatsink to signify the neutral. I may sway over later or just buy more black heat shrink for that short length. PV leads connected too for summer/sunny days. I just need to head to Halfords for a mini fuse extender to allow the ignition signal to be connected, and put the underbody panels back on when it's dry enough to lay in the tarmac again.

 

[DaveCrampton]

I nipped to Halfords to buy a fuse & piggyback and tested the ignition signal. I found with the DCC50S you only need to give the charger a temporary ignition signal before it remains on for the duration of the time the engine is running. Neat!

 

[drinfinity]

I didn't have enough black 16mm^2 to route the battery to the charger so used red with black heatsink to signify the neutral. I may sway over later or just buy more black heat shrink for that short length.

Like your thinking! I had to do the same the other way round - I was 500mm short of red, and loads of black. Some red tape later and all is good.

 

[ChrisWatson]

It’s in (and working!) after a few attempts to get the electric board right.

I made a simple battery tray that’s riveted to the seat base on the underside and made an aluminium frame to hold the electrical board.

 

[Soundz]

@Deaky buddy could you show me how you configured your load output on the MPPT please?

I've just added the voltronic standby into the equation no current now flows back, as you stated and it's putting a small charge into the starter battery as required, just curious how you configured your load-out put. in case there is something I've missed or could amend

Many many thanks

stu

 

[Jimm]

Here’s mine:
Xtreme 110ah AGM
Renogy DCC30S DC-DC charger with MPPT and bluetooth module (Solar not yet fitted - will probably fit a 120W panel based on our usage)
Victron Battery Protect BP65
Connection from EHU I intend to fit under bonnet (Victron BlueSmart 15A)
Photos are from a few months ago now. I'm in the process of fitting a Renogy Battery Monitor with shunt at the moment.

Pretty snug but fitted quite well in the end.

 

[racerke600]

Here are the tweaks I did to my VW California T6.1

- 2 x 120Watt solar panels
- Victron MPPT 75/15
- Victron SmartBatterySense
- Victron Orion Smart DC DC 12V 30A
- AMT12-2 Ablemail Trickle Charger

The Solar was installed last year, but I noticed that the charge was flowing out of the leisure batteries. Smart alternator and that stupid vw split charge relay seemed to be the cause. So I just installed the victron DC DC and the AMT12-2 . And I added a victron battery sense just because I wanted to

Spent almost 2 entire afternoons fidling with wires and connections.

But all seems fine now, and it looks like it works.
Will need to do some testing how 'full' i can get the leisure batteries.

 

[Gazzbert]

Ok here's mine, it's not a fancy setup as it's a day van and nothing more

Ctek 250se as the dc dc charger and solar input
Ctek mxs3.8 as the top up charger for starter and leisure
Bm2 Bluetooth battery monitors on both batteries
120w folding solar panel (input through din connector)
95ah AGM battery

Setup more than enough to run some leds, compressors fridge, usbs etc. Can use 240v through hookup only.

Ignore masking tape, it's so I don't short it while working View attachment 103733

looks pretty damn fancy to me

 

[temeraire]

Here's mine:
Before:
- Durite Voltage Sensitive Relay
- Lead Acid Leisure battery






After Under Passenger seat:
- Renogy DC/DC Charger with MPPT
- Renogy 100Ah LiFePo battery
After under Drivers seat
- Renogy Bluetooth Hub
- Victron 30A AC Charger
- Additional fuses for fridge etc.




The difference in performance and usability is night and day. Lithium batteries are definitely the way to go if you can.

 

[Muckyboots]

Thought I would post in here rather than create a new thread (sorry if thats not correct).

I recently got the new roamer seatbase lithium battery installed, upgraded the solar panel and mppt and all are working great. Is there a way that you can test if the DC to dc charger is working as it should be?. I didn't upgrade this kept the Sterling BB122430 which was already there. Not sure if I'm simplifying this too much but before setting off on an hour's drive I checked the roamer battery status through the app and by the end of the journey it hadn't increased the charge at all. I was expecting the DC to dc to kick in.

@Dellmassive I know you have the same leisure battery, should I be considering buying a new DC to DC that I can monitor.

 

[Sim60]

Thought I would post in here rather than create a new thread (sorry if thats not correct).

I recently got the new roamer seatbase lithium battery installed, upgraded the solar panel and mppt and all are working great. Is there a way that you can test if the DC to dc charger is working as it should be?. I didn't upgrade this kept the Sterling BB122430 which was already there. Not sure if I'm simplifying this too much but before setting off on an hour's drive I checked the roamer battery status through the app and by the end of the journey it hadn't increased the charge at all. I was expecting the DC to dc to kick in.

@Dellmassive I know you have the same leisure battery, should I be considering buying a new DC to DC that I can monitor.

Isn't the BB122430 12V in 24V out at 30A ? - How do you have this set up?

 

[Stay Frosty]

I'm currently squeezing too many bits under my drivers seat and it occurred to me do I connect the positive output from my Victron smart charger positive to the starter battery input on the Renogy DC 50 or the battery output positive connection?
I'm thinking Renogy output postitive connection as if I double up with the starter battery connection then the Victron will also be charging the starter battery but with the LiFePo4 profile of the Roamer leisure seat battery, then again if I double up on the Renogy output positive will this confuse the Renogy regarding the Roamers state of charge?
Yes I know I was an electrician but this 12 volt malarkey, which will also include solar shortly, is the spawn of santa and breaking the habit of a lifetime by making me think about what I'm doing, advice required please.