Did you manage to get your wiper fixed?
Starter Battery Wiring - VW Disagreement
- Thread starter Ann3x
- Start date
Yes as above. Went with @Dellmassive and fitted a distribution fuse box at the same time. Much more tidy solution.
Yep. Got lucky and got a second hand mech from ebay. It got damaged in transit and the seller refunded me, didn't want it back tho. I was able to strip it down and reuse the wiper post which was not too bent.
So net cost to me nil, bit crap for the seller but he did package it terribly. Got a spare wiper motor now if anyone needs too!
Hi all my battery is draining really quickly. I only use once a week but I do have a solar trickle charge on it. I’m worried the conversion company (Big Wave Campers) may have wired incorrectly. Twice I’ve had a completely flat battery. So I’m looking for any other connections to the negative terminal? I borrowed a meter and it showed Battery 11.9 and
Engine running 14.6.
Engine running 14.6.
Moll Battery.
So, the battery failed on me 4 times, and VW still insist on having their dealers do “tests”. The last time, I had finished a survey on top of Mendip. Phoned local dealer about my appointment the following day for the tests, and went to start and nothing, with their service department actually...
It’s a Moll battery - there is a known issue with that make - VW have been replacing them.
Also, what is that black cable attached to the negative battery for ?
Pete
That’s on the positive looks like the converter has just used black cable for split charge feed not the best practice
Moll batteries have a known issue.
If in warranty call vw assist, they may change it for you.
If in warranty call vw assist, they may change it for you.
Replacement AGM battery for Bluemotion vans | travelvolts
Please note that replacing the battery on vans with intelligent alternator will require the ECU to be re programmed.
www.travelvolts.net
Thank youReplacement AGM battery for Bluemotion vans | travelvolts
Please note that replacing the battery on vans with intelligent alternator will require the ECU to be re programmed.
If its a moll issue and you are in warranty vw will replace free of charge. Give vw assist or your dealer a call before you buy I suggest.
Hi all, I posted on another thread possible issue with my brand new van starter battery, I have noticed a sluggish crank couple of times now after vehicle not been run for few days. Having a Lazer lights installation done few weeks ago in noted on this thread that nothing really should be earthed to the negative starter battery terminal. Just went to have a look at my installation and noticed that the company who fitted the lights have connected earth wire to the negative terminal on my starter battery. Could this perhaps cause slight battery drain? I have just unplugged the Ctek 3.8 charger, which I left since yesterday (originally I used the Lidl one but swapped with the Ctek one). It reached float light yesterday evening and I just left it till this morning. Negative clamp was attached to van engine block. Originally I noted that the battery was 12.1-12.2v. now after the charge it's indicating 12.9v measured by multimeter.
Should I shift this lights earth wire to the body?
Should I shift this lights earth wire to the body?
That's the battery clamp so avoid that. To do it properly, I would have removed the battery and opened the main e-box below and used the earth stud there.
If I were the converter, I would have used the spare fuse ways that are there as well and not fitted the block on top of the battery, but what they have done does look substantial.
If I were the converter, I would have used the spare fuse ways that are there as well and not fitted the block on top of the battery, but what they have done does look substantial.
All done now, shifted to the headlamp bracket bolt and it has the earth according to the meter and they work fine. You learn something new every day. Beer for you if ever passing through mid Wales
So in summary, anything attached to the negative starter battery terminal can cause issues with the alternator charging the battery and it's capacity of charge. Have I understood that right?
So in summary, anything attached to the negative starter battery terminal can cause issues with the alternator charging the battery and it's capacity of charge. Have I understood that right?
Hadn't thought of this before, but this thread got me to go check. Low and behold, the company that fitted my towbar connected the -ve feed straight onto the battery terminal. 15 minute fix for me to rectify but now wondering. The vans brain now thinks the battery has more little electrons captive on the -ve side of the battery, than it actually does. Some will have escaped, undetected to supply the light bar on my tow bar mounted bike rack.
Would a few minutes on a charger, by-passing the shunt, be a good idea, to compensate for lost charge?
I believe when a new battery is fitted, it needs coded. What parameters are updated when the new battery is fitted? How is the state of charge determined by the van on the new battery. Is it purely down to voltage detected at the shunt?
Would a few minutes on a charger, by-passing the shunt, be a good idea, to compensate for lost charge?
I believe when a new battery is fitted, it needs coded. What parameters are updated when the new battery is fitted? How is the state of charge determined by the van on the new battery. Is it purely down to voltage detected at the shunt?
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