because they didnt try unbolting my neighbours cat from his van they just put a load lashing around it then to the back of a 4x4 and drove off, this ripped the entire exhaust off and damaged the underside of the van to the point where its possibly being written off. The cat remained attached though. You can buy an underside engine cover plate that fits manufacturers mountings but doesnt extend back far enough to stop the lashing debacle. Also my van is fully down on the coilovers and it will offer a bit of protection to the underside from any crap on the road.
 
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@Banj you clearly have a more intelligent 'thinking mans' thief from where you come from, cause where im from they dont give a ff how much fight or damage they cause they will to just try ripping stuff off. It didnt come off my neighbours van without a fight so they came back 2 hours later and then tried with the lashing. They got nothing but just caused a mass of damage. The idea as with most security stuff is that the most determined thief can pretty much get anything but just make it so difficult they think move on to something else.
 
What I ment was it's bolted way up high, on the turbo, you'd have to remove the subframe before the cat will come out....
 
I harped on about this thing recently, people look at you as if your mad until something like this happen to them. Mine is fitted with the spare safe. but thought of fitting something like this:
View attachment 18028
Putting it through the hole next to the bolt which doesnt fully come out, it will prevent it from allowing you to slide the piece that holds the wheel up and if tampered give alarm.

View attachment 18029

I have ordered a cheap disk lock to see if I can make this work. Anyone else tried this approach ?

Pete
 
I have ordered a cheap disk lock to see if I can make this work. Anyone else tried this approach ?

Pete
Had play about this morning with a disc lock for a motorbike. It does prevent the carrier from sliding to the side, to drop the wheel down. However the left hand bolt is retained by a thin splayed collar. See picture. This prevents the bolt from being extracted. However I'm sure a smack with screw driver and hammer, (Tea leafs tools of choice) and this would burst the collar off. The bolt could then be fully undone. A 90 degree bracket fixed in front of the collar may prevent access however.

20180218_142301.jpg
 
Not looked at mine. So the bolt stays in position and isn't removed ? Only the bottom nut to allow the carrier to be undone ?
If so how about replacing the bolt with a nut on top then weld the nut on ?
 
If you go right under to where the drop-down wheel retainer is hinged, there are holes and stuff, and holes in the wheel, of course. You can use these to configure a hassle and complete arse to free the wheel, but should you ever need the wheel you would have the time and knowledge of how to free it. It would just take you an extra five mins.
 
@Blitz . I think to weld a bit on the end of bolt would have to be welded with the bolt in situ. Bit tricky.

@tram . Didn't drop the wheel completely today but I'm thinking you mean to run a bike chain or similar through the wheel and holes already in the carrier or close by the carrier.
 
Dieseldonkey. Yes. The thief has to be in a position where they can't easily operate or flee. It needs to be awkward, a tangle, some red herrings, some very good stuff also like maybe a good D bicycle lock. Remember, you as owner can have all the time you need to free it, and be in as awkward and stuck place as you like, the thief can't, so you use that, maybe grease, too. They also on top of this would have to tackle the other usual side of the wheel release, and, again, grease on tools and fingers will make their job more difficult.
 
Pauly just received my locking wheel nut and shroud from T6 forum shop, but not sure what the plastic bits are for ? as if you push cover over when installed you will not be able to remove it when inside shroud plus plastic nut with hole in a plunger ? Engineer here so have a good understanding of parts / equipment, lost me lol
 
The metal cap is to protect the head of the bolt from water/dirt and the plastic cap is for removing the metal cap by pushing it over it (its a force fit) and pulling it down
 
its missing so I can't check.

looking at the below ebay link, it states
"This lock is used in conjunction with the bolt that holds the spare wheel cage in place it does not replace this but sits along side in the second threaded hole."

ZGB701071592E - Anti-Theft Spare Wheel Lock VW T4 T5 2003-2015 VW T6 2015 on | eBay

which suggests the 2nd one in the threaded hole is missing, like mine is

thanks

My Highline came with only the captive bolt fitted as yours did. I bought my van at 12 months old so I don't know whether it was delivered like that.
 
Want to get one of these for my van when it arrives but how do I know if I need the long or short one? Surely its just one bolt length or the only reason I can think of is a difference due to the spare being alloy or steel and if tgats the case, which is which?
 
VW list them as short for steel and long for alloy, if your vans is coming with Devonports it’s the long one
 
I've no idea which wheels it is TBH, pretty sure they're 16" alloys anyway, not sure if the spare is steel or alloy but at least I know which one to buy when I find out now - Cheers :)
 
The metal cap is to protect the head of the bolt from water/dirt and the plastic cap is for removing the metal cap by pushing it over it (its a force fit) and pulling it down
Thanks for the info, just tried it :thumbsup:
 
Scrotes spotted this afternoon around the front of our houses. Mrs told me when I got home so their ether looking at breaking into my neighbors van for tools or mine. Then I rememberd my Spare wheel is in a lovely passition next to the foot path. Went out and removed it tonight. Currently in the Hall way next to my German Shepherd ;)
Knowing my luck iv now pissed them off and they will vandalise the van :cry:

Deffo need a lock or may be just keep it in the boot most of the time
 
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