T6 OEM LED-headlight retrofit
It is at the beginning of page 9
T6 OEM LED-headlight retrofit
Any chance you could do a parts list, for £1400 I could probably justify the cost. I would also carry out the conversion myself saving labour charges. Of course. I will put together full list with part numbers and prices (I mean, what I paid) within next few days.
Interesting thing is that high beam lenses(inner ones) produce/project upper half of the beam only.
So when low beam is switched ON, the outer lenses project lower half of the beam and therefore low beam (obvious!).
But when high beam is switched ON both outer and inner lenses project light, producing lower and upper halfs that overlap each other a little bit.
See below the sequence(sides, DRLs, low beam, high beam, low beam, high beam, low beam, DRLs, high beam ONLY/flasher, high beam, etc. )
So when low beam is switched ON, the outer lenses project lower half of the beam and therefore low beam (obvious!).
But when high beam is switched ON both outer and inner lenses project light, producing lower and upper halfs that overlap each other a little bit.
See below the sequence(sides, DRLs, low beam, high beam, low beam, high beam, low beam, DRLs, high beam ONLY/flasher, high beam, etc. )
Do you have a price for these bud...I have a set of headlights, my local TPS have provided me with a load of different plugs and terminals but be nice if there’s already a pre made loom to allow me to plug and play.
PM me if need be
Thanks
Only thing that’s going to explode is your wallet!Why minefield? Is there anything going to explode? Should I be concerned?
I have priced all components for a complete LED retrofit for @rafa and allowing some preowned components and including self levelling I ended up at approximately £1100.
After selling old lamps you could easily close the whole project below £1000.
I know it is still expensive but final result pays back for itself. You will not regret.
After selling old lamps you could easily close the whole project below £1000.
I know it is still expensive but final result pays back for itself. You will not regret.
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Would this be fitting the whole kit yourself? I’m not that confident I could fit the level kit tbh
Yes, whole project DIY and it really is very simple, especially when everything has been shown in this thread.
I might have a look at this then.
Which are the pre owned parts you would be using?
How did you route the wiring to the level-sensors?
Did you need to re-pin anything at the BCM?
for the pre owned parts just go to page number 9
Hello everybody,
Is Albert from Barcelona, first of all sorry for my English….
Well, I’m decided to change headlights from H4 to LED in my '17 plated California T6 and founding this thread has been the key to begin with the process. Beyond this forum, there isn’t so much information about how to DIY (or at least, useful information) and posts here from Pauly and Robert as well as the contributions from other users are nice and clear enough to carry on a successful on retrofit (I hope)
Anyway, I am wondering at some points. I will explain my doubts as much as I can do to try to clarify it for me as well as for other users that could reach some questions.
Of course, I promise to upload pics about the process once it will be completed (I hope to have it ready before October).
Points were I’m “roundabouting” now are:
1- Dear @Robert , why you leave pin 8 empty at 14 pin RHS LED connector image?
Checking the schemas, pin 8 on T14 connector (for both LED hands) is routed to SC30 fuse through B278 15a positive bridge.
It is exactly the same condition meet by H4/H7 original 10 pin conector / pin 1 (also for both sides)
So I don’t understand why it is empty at the image with all the stuff working on the headlight because, according the diagram, there is a +12 connection remaining here.
According the schema only pin empty at new 14 pin connector is the 13th...
Another point is:
2- On LED diagram 23/9 sheet, appears a “J1069 Diagnosis wire relay” what is connected to both LED headlights trough deviation on T14 connector pin 14 (which is a new cable from Headlights to BCM).
This relay is on the other side connected to BCM T73b connector pin 28 and gets positive from SF9 fuse line:
Checking Elsawin, this relay is placed on central dash fuse box and should to be type 479 relay. This place could be also occupied by type 646 relay doing another function.
Looking on my van (LHD, as Clarkson say with the steering wheel on the wrong side) there is nothing here…
Well picture is bad as hell but is possible to guess the hole without relay on positions 2a & 3a
Did you added this new relay @Robert / @Pauly ? I guess that it’s only useful to LED checking purposes and anything bad will happen if I don’t install it, but I’m not sure at all.
To finish:
Robert kindly made a list of required parts, but I have doubts about how to plug the new cables (x2 on every headlamp side + 2 for range control module CAN) on 73 pins b connector of the BCM. Crimps for this connector looks tiny in regards to 24 pins connector ones.
It should be done with your listed 1x 000979025E wire?
Or maybe with 10x 000979009E?
In any case I’ve seen that you bought 10 + 1 cable with crimps on both sides when you need to add 6 cables to BCM + 18 cables on range control module 26 pin connector. So, I’m confused with that. I’m thinking in purchase only crimps instead of pre crimped cables, but I’m not sure about which crimp is valid for every connector and how you did it with this 10+1 pre crimped cables.
Any clarification is welcome!!! Thanks in advance.
Is Albert from Barcelona, first of all sorry for my English….
Well, I’m decided to change headlights from H4 to LED in my '17 plated California T6 and founding this thread has been the key to begin with the process. Beyond this forum, there isn’t so much information about how to DIY (or at least, useful information) and posts here from Pauly and Robert as well as the contributions from other users are nice and clear enough to carry on a successful on retrofit (I hope
)Anyway, I am wondering at some points. I will explain my doubts as much as I can do to try to clarify it for me as well as for other users that could reach some questions.
Of course, I promise to upload pics about the process once it will be completed (I hope to have it ready before October).
Points were I’m “roundabouting” now are:
1- Dear @Robert , why you leave pin 8 empty at 14 pin RHS LED connector image?
Checking the schemas, pin 8 on T14 connector (for both LED hands) is routed to SC30 fuse through B278 15a positive bridge.
It is exactly the same condition meet by H4/H7 original 10 pin conector / pin 1 (also for both sides)
So I don’t understand why it is empty at the image with all the stuff working on the headlight because, according the diagram, there is a +12 connection remaining here.
According the schema only pin empty at new 14 pin connector is the 13th...
Another point is:
2- On LED diagram 23/9 sheet, appears a “J1069 Diagnosis wire relay” what is connected to both LED headlights trough deviation on T14 connector pin 14 (which is a new cable from Headlights to BCM).
This relay is on the other side connected to BCM T73b connector pin 28 and gets positive from SF9 fuse line:
Checking Elsawin, this relay is placed on central dash fuse box and should to be type 479 relay. This place could be also occupied by type 646 relay doing another function.
Looking on my van (LHD, as Clarkson say with the steering wheel on the wrong side) there is nothing here…
Well picture is bad as hell but is possible to guess the hole without relay on positions 2a & 3a
Did you added this new relay @Robert / @Pauly ? I guess that it’s only useful to LED checking purposes and anything bad will happen if I don’t install it, but I’m not sure at all.
To finish:
Robert kindly made a list of required parts, but I have doubts about how to plug the new cables (x2 on every headlamp side + 2 for range control module CAN) on 73 pins b connector of the BCM. Crimps for this connector looks tiny in regards to 24 pins connector ones.
It should be done with your listed 1x 000979025E wire?
Or maybe with 10x 000979009E?
In any case I’ve seen that you bought 10 + 1 cable with crimps on both sides when you need to add 6 cables to BCM + 18 cables on range control module 26 pin connector. So, I’m confused with that. I’m thinking in purchase only crimps instead of pre crimped cables, but I’m not sure about which crimp is valid for every connector and how you did it with this 10+1 pre crimped cables.
Any clarification is welcome!!! Thanks in advance.
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1:
Pins number 8 and 13 on LED headlamp are empty/don't exist.
so it is pointless to run any wiring to them.
2:
I have connected both PWM signals directly to BCM/CEM, as per below.
LHS (from LED PIN14 straight to PIN56 on plug B of BCM/CEM)
RHS (from LED PIN14 straight to PIN28 on plug B of BCM/CEM)
On BCM/CEM side I have used 1 off 000979009E, which is approx. 300mm long wire with connectors at each end.
After splitting this wire in half I have connected both connectors to PIN28 & PIN56 on plug B and then extended them to reach corresponding LED headlamp.
Obviously if you buy crimping connectors only you have to get:
2 x 000979025E
20 x 000979009E
And finally, I didn't add any relays.
Pins number 8 and 13 on LED headlamp are empty/don't exist.
so it is pointless to run any wiring to them.
2:
I have connected both PWM signals directly to BCM/CEM, as per below.
LHS (from LED PIN14 straight to PIN56 on plug B of BCM/CEM)
RHS (from LED PIN14 straight to PIN28 on plug B of BCM/CEM)
On BCM/CEM side I have used 1 off 000979009E, which is approx. 300mm long wire with connectors at each end.
After splitting this wire in half I have connected both connectors to PIN28 & PIN56 on plug B and then extended them to reach corresponding LED headlamp.
Obviously if you buy crimping connectors only you have to get:
2 x 000979025E
20 x 000979009E
And finally, I didn't add any relays.
And to finish completely this LED retrofit.
Headlight range control module 6R0 907 357 C coding for
RHD should be 0FCE020001000000
and for
LHD should be 07CE020001000000
The only difference is bit 3 in Byte 0 and this one is hard-coded and it can't be changed.
This bit changes the side of the vehicle from RHD to LHD set-up for the purpose of indicating, in fault description, the side on which the faulty level sensor is.
Also if someone is lucky enough to have High Beam Assist needs to change
in module 7E0 857 511 G
Byte 0 in hex from 01 to 04
Byte 1 in hex from 01 to 04
Good luck and enjoy the most powerful lights I have ever seen and used!
Headlight range control module 6R0 907 357 C coding for
RHD should be 0FCE020001000000
and for
LHD should be 07CE020001000000
The only difference is bit 3 in Byte 0 and this one is hard-coded and it can't be changed.
This bit changes the side of the vehicle from RHD to LHD set-up for the purpose of indicating, in fault description, the side on which the faulty level sensor is.
Also if someone is lucky enough to have High Beam Assist needs to change
in module 7E0 857 511 G
Byte 0 in hex from 01 to 04
Byte 1 in hex from 01 to 04
Good luck and enjoy the most powerful lights I have ever seen and used!
OMG @Robert you're a Master!!!!
Thank you very much for your clarifying and easy to understand answers (even for dummies like me
)
Really appreciated men, thanks for your time.
Your coding tips al also super, my van has High Beam Assist and these codes will be top in my case. In fact, I though that the current coding for H4 on this module was going to work... (beginner here)
My retrofit will be done in two stages: I am waiting right now for the material to carry on headlights change and until mid November, parts for auto-levelling will not be purchased and installed. So, in the first step I will only carry on the VCDS mods for getting LED working. This are the codes shown @ page 15 1st post, right? (+ today's High Beam Assist tweak)
Rounds of beers for you if come or pass nearby Barcelona. Or Croatia / Bosnia area where I will drive my Cali this whole August (still with the candles at the front)
This is my 4mo 150Hp MY'17 California plated ExxxxJVZ
Shot @ "Delta del Ebro" near Tarragona, where lots of people from across Europe come to practice Kite Surf
@rafa sure! You will have this information form my LHD LED conversion.
As well, I'm pending of install an invent to auto-disable S&S by adding a timer switch what is already in my home (people did it and is fully tested on Tiguan, Leon, and lots of VAG cars)
This information will be also available in a dedicated thread.
Thank you very much for your clarifying and easy to understand answers (even for dummies like me
)Really appreciated men, thanks for your time.
Your coding tips al also super, my van has High Beam Assist and these codes will be top in my case. In fact, I though that the current coding for H4 on this module was going to work... (beginner here)
My retrofit will be done in two stages: I am waiting right now for the material to carry on headlights change and until mid November, parts for auto-levelling will not be purchased and installed. So, in the first step I will only carry on the VCDS mods for getting LED working. This are the codes shown @ page 15 1st post, right? (+ today's High Beam Assist tweak)
Rounds of beers for you if come or pass nearby Barcelona. Or Croatia / Bosnia area where I will drive my Cali this whole August
(still with the candles at the front)This is my 4mo 150Hp MY'17 California plated ExxxxJVZ
Shot @ "Delta del Ebro" near Tarragona, where lots of people from across Europe come to practice Kite Surf
@rafa sure! You will have this information form my LHD LED conversion.
As well, I'm pending of install an invent to auto-disable S&S by adding a timer switch what is already in my home (people did it and is fully tested on Tiguan, Leon, and lots of VAG cars)
This information will be also available in a dedicated thread.
@AlberT6 for the harness, you have two solutions
- @Robert solution is nice and cheap
- but @Pauly can provide a complete home made harness (plug and play) compatible on the first side with old H7/H4 and LED on the other side (unless i'm mistaken because in France and older people like me, foreign languages subtilities are not easy
)
- @Robert solution is nice and cheap
- but @Pauly can provide a complete home made harness (plug and play) compatible on the first side with old H7/H4 and LED on the other side (unless i'm mistaken because in France and older people like me, foreign languages subtilities are not easy
)