Too Many OBDii Faults For My Liking!

[BrianK]

I used the 16mm2 cable for +/- starter battery to redarc and leisure battery to redarc (with 50A / 100A midi fuses as intermediate connection points) also for leisure battery to chassis ground cable and leisure battery to inverter ( under driver seat)
I made up a ‘hydra’ cable out of 10 x 14awg wires that feed a 10 way fuse box (via a 30A midi fuse and a 50A cut off switch so I can isolate the fuse box to turn everything off in one go)
I used the 14awg cable for diesel heater (15A) feed wire (via a relay so I can isolate the heater to avoid current drain when I don’t need it)
Everything else uses 17awg wire (led lights/usb sockets) as they are all under 6A feeds.
I have yet to add cables for a fridge, but that will be of a suitable size for current and length as well.
I can’t see any obvious issues with the readout, I do notice the starter battery is at 80% which is normal for a stop/start battery, so if you were using the split charge relay, your leisure battery would never fully charge either (even if the cable was up to it)

I only intend to tackle the leisure battery/DC charger and cabling, working on the basis I have used the van a few times since I bought it and the fridge/lights/heater don’t seem to have caused a fire as of yet. Presumably if i cable and fuse correctly then that makes problems with these appliances even less likely?!

There are two things that baffle me (probably my thickness in both cases)
1, I can’t understand how the main fuses can be so large 50/100amps! It seems at the most I will be drawing 6 to 8 amps with the equipment I have installed!

I have just been reading Dellmassives extensive write-up at the link below but still can’t understand the fuses!
Installing 12v Socket /s - How Its Done -

2, What is a hydra cable?

 

[BrianK]

What was the fault code that returned?

It is: 1.1 U100800 Diagnostic interface for data bus Passive/Sporadic Read out DTC. Which if you recall I had along with the huge list of others on my first ever post on this thread.

 

[Grim Reaper]

The alternator can push out quite a bit of current (as shown by one of your previous screen shots where the battery was being charged at 20.2A) but the battery can push out a lot more (typical starter motor current is around 250A under load, that's why the cables from the battery to the starter and the battery to the chassis are thick, they need to be able to cope with the current draw of the starter motor and not melt)
The Redarc BCDC1240D is, by its designation, able to charge a leisure battery at 40A (I have a Lithium leisure battery so it is quite capable of taking all that the Redarc can supply)
Say you have been using your leisure battery a lot, then in effect connect that flat battery to the van's starter battery when you start the van and the split charge relay clicks in, or the DC-DC charger fires up, the two batteries will try to even out their charge level between themselves (more so in the case of a split charge relay as the only limiting factors are the thickness of the wires and the rating of the fuse), so you can get a very high current through the wires connecting the two, this is why you need a cable substantial enough to cope.
Depending on the size of inverter you choose, the DC side connection from the leisure battery to the inverter, takes a huge amount of current. My Victron 800W is capable of taking 100A at peak load, a 1500W or 2000W inverter could take up to 200A, so it would need very thick cables even if the distance was short, 2awg, 1awg, or even 00awg (up to 70mm2 cable!)
A hydra cable is something like this but I made it from copper wires into a crimp lug at one end and lucar blade connectors at the other to go onto the blades on the back of the fusebox

 

[Grim Reaper]

As for the code, it would seem a few people get this one, might need to clear codes in other systems first, or it could just be its way of telling you something is not coded right but I'd get your battery coded correctly first.

 

[BrianK]

The alternator can push out quite a bit of current (as shown by one of your previous screen shots where the battery was being charged at 20.2A) but the battery can push out a lot more (typical starter motor current is around 250A under load, that's why the cables from the battery to the starter and the battery to the chassis are thick, they need to be able to cope with the current draw of the starter motor and not melt)
The Redarc BCDC1240D is, by its designation, able to charge a leisure battery at 40A (I have a Lithium leisure battery so it is quite capable of taking all that the Redarc can supply)
Say you have been using your leisure battery a lot, then in effect connect that flat battery to the van's starter battery when you start the van and the split charge relay clicks in, or the DC-DC charger fires up, the two batteries will try to even out their charge level between themselves (more so in the case of a split charge relay as the only limiting factors are the thickness of the wires and the rating of the fuse), so you can get a very high current through the wires connecting the two, this is why you need a cable substantial enough to cope.
Depending on the size of inverter you choose, the DC side connection from the leisure battery to the inverter, takes a huge amount of current. My Victron 800W is capable of taking 100A at peak load, a 1500W or 2000W inverter could take up to 200A, so it would need very thick cables even if the distance was short, 2awg, 1awg, or even 00awg (up to 70mm2 cable!)

Thanks for the detailed description although still wouldn’t know how to choose the Ampage of the fuses for my own
I’m not aware that I need an inverter, I don’t think there’s anything I need that I don’t already have or isn’t available in 12 volt.

A hydra cable is something like this but I made it from copper wires into a crimp lug at one end and lucar blade connectors at the other to go onto the blades on the back of the fusebox

So a safe way to split from one to several cables?

 

[BrianK]

As for the code, it would seem a few people get this one, might need to clear codes in other systems first, or it could just be its way of telling you something is not coded right but I'd get your battery coded correctly first.

Yes I will definitely try to get the battery coded properly first. This is certainly intermittent, I had to drive around a fair bit to force it to happen again this morning.

 

[BrianK]

Grim Reaper,

This below I just found is interesting. I'd forgotten to mention I've had a message on the display for days saying inspection due in 4 / 3 / 2 / 1 days! And this ended today so it now says Inspection Now! Perhaps I should have taken a bit more notice of warnings Although I find it unlikely it's connected with the U1008 fault code.

U1008 Engine Trouble Code - U1008 OBD-II Diagnostic Network (U) Trouble Code | Engine-Trouble-Code.com

Do I believe the link or does the Inspection message mean something else in the UK?

 

[Grim Reaper]

So a safe way to split from one to several cables?

The back of the fuse box looks like this

So I thought the best way to feed it was with individual wires, lucar connector and cover on the fusebox end, commoning them up at the other end into a lug.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I've seen one explanation of U1008 as the flap that allows fresh cold air into the engine bay is faulty.
Don't know if that might apply?

 

[BrianK]

I saw a couple or references to it too on a Google search but can't find enough info anywhere so I know what/where to look

 

[mmi]

In VCDS:

U1008 00 - Please Check DTC Memory in CAN Gateway (J533)
[Data bus on board diagnostic interface - J533 Read out DTC]
​

Can you read fault codes individually from each control module? Interesting ones are: 19-CAN Gateway and 61-Battery Regulator.

 

[BrianK]

In VCDS:

U1008 00 - Please Check DTC Memory in CAN Gateway (J533)
[Data bus on board diagnostic interface - J533 Read out DTC]
​

Can you read fault codes individually from each control module? Interesting ones are: 19-CAN Gateway and 61-Battery Regulator.

I'm not sure, will taker a look and see if this is possible.

 

[BrianK]

I should be able to check later today if I can get into faults on a individual basis.

In the meantime I discovered the PDF below last night (see page 38 specifically) from a Google search after which it occurred to me that on my van (originally a Kombi) has a rear wiper that hasn't worked since I've had the van, I haven't worried ass I tend to. reverse with the mirrors anyway.
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_307_d2.pdf

Do we think this could be caused by the rear wiper?

 

[mmi]

I don't think the rear wiper is the cause. Do you get reversing lights when reversing? Any faults of actual rear wiper should be recorded under control module 09 - BCM.

If interested, full document is available here ---> The Touran Electrical System | SSP 307 Online | Free Download or ---> VAG SSP 307 – The Touran Electrical system - Pdf Online Download

Some similarities with similar control modules with your fault U1008 here ---> VW Passat b7 Fault Codes need help

On your yesterdays' screenshots seems that the alternator is still not communicating with battery management (see the yellow ones below) which would explain earlier Battery Management Fault 02252:


Corresponding readings using VCDS (Group/Field: 14-2, 14-3, 26-1, 26-2 below):

 

[BrianK]

Thanks mmi,

Looks like I have some bed time reading

I have reversing lights, on checking today I have one rear fog only not working.

It seems I don't have the ability to read fault codes individually, I have attached the output from Engine Control Module 1/Live data like I did for the battery before but doubt it will be of much help. I hope you can open it OK.

EDIT: Equally I doubt these other PDF's will help but though worth adding in any case.

 

[BrianK]

mmi,

I just wanted to check something.

Since installing the new battery it seems to have charged OK, for instance today when I first drove the van the stop/start wasn't workingwomen I started but after 10 minutes driving it did work just fine. Does this have any bearing on what you say above?

 

[oldiebut goodie]

"I have reversing lights, on checking today I have one rear fog only not working."
I thought that there was only one the same as other VW vans? Should there be 2 on the T6?

 

[mmi]

Thanks mmi,

Looks like I have some bed time reading

I have reversing lights, on checking today I have one rear fog only not working.

It seems I don't have the ability to read fault codes individually, I have attached the output from Engine Control Module 1/Live data like I did for the battery before but doubt it will be of much help. I hope you can open it OK.

EDIT: Equally I doubt these other PDF's will help but though worth adding in any case.

Thanks. Yes, they all open ok.

Interestingly Engine Live Data is actually missing almost all live data. However, there seem to be a few long term statistics remaining.

Especially I was expecting to see e.g. on lines 96-103, 143-148, 1069-1087 meaningful data. However, elsewhere seems to be some random data - not sure if they are only leftovers in testers memory, e.g line 518. Fuel level = 47 liters. Actually I'm expecting to see all the fields (1-1823) populated.

Also Central Electrics Live Data is missing a lot of data e.g. door status data - lines 17-23. However, not sure if you have cruise control as its data is empty.

So, hard to tell if all the above that is missing is just a shortcoming of Autel or real CANBUS communication issue.

mmi,

I just wanted to check something.

Since installing the new battery it seems to have charged OK, for instance today when I first drove the van the stop/start wasn't workingwomen I started but after 10 minutes driving it did work just fine. Does this have any bearing on what you say above?

I don't think the start/stop -thing gives us any more information. The battery management reports excellent charge level so it doesn't inhibit start/stop to kick in.

 

[mmi]

"I have reversing lights, on checking today I have one rear fog only not working."
I thought that there was only one the same as other VW vans? Should there be 2 on the T6?

I think the van in question is a T5.
However, my T6 has two reversing lights and two rear fogs (LHD). I think these configuration differences between countries are "caused" by national VW HQ's setting up their preferences of "baseline" for vehicles.

 

[BrianK]

"I have reversing lights, on checking today I have one rear fog only not working."
I thought that there was only one the same as other VW vans? Should there be 2 on the T6?

Hello,
I just assumed there should be two as there is a place for it to the left as well as the right but for no other reason than this.