Too Many OBDii Faults For My Liking!
I thought it might be 595 901 085 as per link below but had feeling the serial number should be 10 digits!
595 901 085 | Varta Automotive
595 901 085 | Varta Automotive
Just use any 10 digits, it's not used by the ECU, it's just a way of determining that a battery has been changed should the new one be exactly the same spec as the old one.
I used the last 10 digits of the barcode 7025244367
I used the last 10 digits of the barcode 7025244367
What about changing the type? Can your kit do that?
Hello chaps,
Had a better run of two and a half hours today and did a battery test again after (below). I can see one improvement in that the charge current is now down to 3.1 amps, I’m not sure about anything else.
I do however still have the problem of the battery type, which I can’t find on the Autel device anywhere and the manufacturers support team aren’t bothering answering!
Had a better run of two and a half hours today and did a battery test again after (below). I can see one improvement in that the charge current is now down to 3.1 amps, I’m not sure about anything else.
I do however still have the problem of the battery type, which I can’t find on the Autel device anywhere and the manufacturers support team aren’t bothering answering!
Have you cleared all the fault codes and seen if any have returned again?
Hello all,
I would like further advice from you kind folk on the forum if possible. I have been away and inflicted with man flu but hopefully I can get somewhere with this now.
Having reported above that I successfully cleared all my faults I noticed today after a drive of about 3 hours that the number 1 engine control module fault which I have had before was back. As I have always been suspicious of the split charge relay I disconnected it, ran the engine for a few moments, cleared the faults and then tested again when zero faults were found.
Another thing I’d like to ask, which may or may not be connected with the above, is whether a split charge relay (pic attached below), and the wiring, should get hot, well I suppose very warm would be nearer the mark. This after a drive of about 45 minutes and cables both in and out of the relay are noticeably very warm, enough to make the wires sheath to feel slightly softer if you get my meaning.
It is my intention to go into a local garage with the ability to recode the battery correctly. May I also ask if there is anything else I should get them to do/check at the same time.
Many thanks.
I would like further advice from you kind folk on the forum if possible. I have been away and inflicted with man flu but hopefully I can get somewhere with this now.
Having reported above that I successfully cleared all my faults I noticed today after a drive of about 3 hours that the number 1 engine control module fault which I have had before was back. As I have always been suspicious of the split charge relay I disconnected it, ran the engine for a few moments, cleared the faults and then tested again when zero faults were found.
Another thing I’d like to ask, which may or may not be connected with the above, is whether a split charge relay (pic attached below), and the wiring, should get hot, well I suppose very warm would be nearer the mark. This after a drive of about 45 minutes and cables both in and out of the relay are noticeably very warm, enough to make the wires sheath to feel slightly softer if you get my meaning.
It is my intention to go into a local garage with the ability to recode the battery correctly. May I also ask if there is anything else I should get them to do/check at the same time.
Many thanks.
Thanks Loz
The original post was about whether the relay is doing the job it is intended to do and the inevitability of changing to a DC/DC charger, if I can ever resolve the other issues I have encountered as I've gone along!
I didn't feel these cables should be getting this warm as I have a fair bit of experience with home electrics and it wouldn't be tolerated then. I presume the installer should have maintained a diameter roughly that of the part with the fuse in it? I realise it isn't safe to leave this in situ but would the wire thickness make any difference to how it works?
The original post was about whether the relay is doing the job it is intended to do and the inevitability of changing to a DC/DC charger, if I can ever resolve the other issues I have encountered as I've gone along!
I didn't feel these cables should be getting this warm as I have a fair bit of experience with home electrics and it wouldn't be tolerated then. I presume the installer should have maintained a diameter roughly that of the part with the fuse in it? I realise it isn't safe to leave this in situ but would the wire thickness make any difference to how it works?
The size of cable used is dependent on the expected load and the distance it has to travel.
I have used 16mm2 twinflex between the starter battery and the Redarc DC-DC charger under the passenger seat, with Anderson SB50A connectors to allow quick disconnect and fused at both ends with 50A fuses.
TWINFLEX 16mm2 6 AWG Ideal for jump leads Two cables bonded together in a figure 8 configuration ALT TWINFLEX16
I have used 16mm2 twinflex between the starter battery and the Redarc DC-DC charger under the passenger seat, with Anderson SB50A connectors to allow quick disconnect and fused at both ends with 50A fuses.
TWINFLEX 16mm2 6 AWG Ideal for jump leads Two cables bonded together in a figure 8 configuration ALT TWINFLEX16
Thanks grim Reaper
In my case the leisure batteries will be under the seats, the distribution board is just behind the drivers seat and the DC/DC charger will either be with one of the batteries or very nearby.
Installed in the van is as follows:
CBE PC210 Controller
CBE CB516 Mains charger
CBE DS120-S Mains consumer unit
CBE DS300 Distribution board
Waeco CRX 50 Fridge (1.1 to 1.7 amps per hour)
Planar 2D diesel heater - using PU-27 Control panel (apparently 2.4 amps per hour, plus presumably start up amps!)
8 x LED ceiling lights (no idea of amps/watts used, presume negligible)
1 x 550mm LED strip light (no idea of amps/watts used, presume negligible)
Comet submersible pump for cold tap (10 – 24 watts)
Couple of USB charging points for iPad, iPhone and occasional laptop charging.
Any advice on how wire diameter is decided appreciated. I have read before that over specing of the cable can approve efficiently which I’m also willing to consider doing if it seems worth it.
In my case the leisure batteries will be under the seats, the distribution board is just behind the drivers seat and the DC/DC charger will either be with one of the batteries or very nearby.
Installed in the van is as follows:
CBE PC210 Controller
CBE CB516 Mains charger
CBE DS120-S Mains consumer unit
CBE DS300 Distribution board
Waeco CRX 50 Fridge (1.1 to 1.7 amps per hour)
Planar 2D diesel heater - using PU-27 Control panel (apparently 2.4 amps per hour, plus presumably start up amps!)
8 x LED ceiling lights (no idea of amps/watts used, presume negligible)
1 x 550mm LED strip light (no idea of amps/watts used, presume negligible)
Comet submersible pump for cold tap (10 – 24 watts)
Couple of USB charging points for iPad, iPhone and occasional laptop charging.
Any advice on how wire diameter is decided appreciated. I have read before that over specing of the cable can approve efficiently which I’m also willing to consider doing if it seems worth it.
Have a look for dc cable size charts on google, will look something like this
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
Then it’s just a case of working out what current and length and finding the recommended wire gauge for that application .
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpgThen it’s just a case of working out what current and length and finding the recommended wire gauge for that application .
Thanks Grim Reaper
A few other questions if you don't mind:
A few other questions if you don't mind:
- Is it only the length of cable from the starter to the leisure batteries that is allowed for or also to the distribution board?
- Even though the fault number 1 engine control module seemed to clear yesterday, after running the van today it came back yet again. How should I deal with this?
- Would you look at my most recent battery output below and advise if anything further looks wrong?
I used the 16mm2 cable for +/- starter battery to redarc and leisure battery to redarc (with 50A / 100A midi fuses as intermediate connection points) also for leisure battery to chassis ground cable and leisure battery to inverter ( under driver seat)
I made up a ‘hydra’ cable out of 10 x 14awg wires that feed a 10 way fuse box (via a 30A midi fuse and a 50A cut off switch so I can isolate the fuse box to turn everything off in one go)
I used the 14awg cable for diesel heater (15A) feed wire (via a relay so I can isolate the heater to avoid current drain when I don’t need it)
Everything else uses 17awg wire (led lights/usb sockets) as they are all under 6A feeds.
I have yet to add cables for a fridge, but that will be of a suitable size for current and length as well.
I can’t see any obvious issues with the readout, I do notice the starter battery is at 80% which is normal for a stop/start battery, so if you were using the split charge relay, your leisure battery would never fully charge either (even if the cable was up to it)
I made up a ‘hydra’ cable out of 10 x 14awg wires that feed a 10 way fuse box (via a 30A midi fuse and a 50A cut off switch so I can isolate the fuse box to turn everything off in one go)
I used the 14awg cable for diesel heater (15A) feed wire (via a relay so I can isolate the heater to avoid current drain when I don’t need it)
Everything else uses 17awg wire (led lights/usb sockets) as they are all under 6A feeds.
I have yet to add cables for a fridge, but that will be of a suitable size for current and length as well.
I can’t see any obvious issues with the readout, I do notice the starter battery is at 80% which is normal for a stop/start battery, so if you were using the split charge relay, your leisure battery would never fully charge either (even if the cable was up to it)
What was the fault code that returned?
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