TransporterHQ (THQ) Aftermarket Headlights

[dubber36]

I'm wandering if my 19 plate van is wired differently to earlier ones, which is why I've been having problems with flickering and lights not working.

The fact that is is not supported by the VCDS that worked on my 58 plate one makes me think it's different.

 

[RedUn]

I wouldn't mind just seeing pictures of Monaco taken down by the harbour or outside the Jaques Cousteau museum by the Palace, actually I wouldn't mind just having a wander round there people watching this near to Christmas!

Back on topic and yes pictures are required... on a side note @RedUn the canbus decoders are fitted and working apart from still throwing the bulb out warning if I flash the main beam from the headlight stalk switch... changing from dip to main and the dash stays off

Ahh interesting! Have you fitted the beasts to the van then?!

 

[Stay Frosty]

Yes mate, I'll reactivate the H4 thread but I will say holy fork end shirt balls they're a definite improvement over the £19.99 LEDs let alone the Halogen glow worms!

 

[Mikem]

Dipped and mains, on with dipped, don’t forget these are LHD..

 

[Mikem]

A photo for Stay Frosty, with old headlights

 

[RedUn]

Dipped and mains, on with dipped, don’t forget these are LHD..

View attachment 55969

View attachment 55970

They look proper!

 

[Stay Frosty]

@Mikem tell us the bottom half of all stone walls are painted white above Monaco, they're bloddy epic!

 

[Mikem]

Very happy! 5000k is just right!

 

[Mcdubbin]

Very happy! 5000k is just right!

Hi Mikem,
I’ve been following this forum from afar for ages... thanks to you and @dubber36 for doing the experimenting and taking the time to report back. I just bought the car rover hid canbus 55w kit but annoyingly at 6000k- would you recommend I send these back and order the 5000k? Have you got install tips/pics of where you fitted the ballast etc? I’m going to try take this on at the weekend.. thanks in advance

 

[dubber36]

I would go with 5000k. In fact, the 4300k ones that I tried were by far the best, but CarRover don't do those.

As for fitting, I cut a round hole in the rubber cap on the back of the headlight for the grommet to fit into. Stuck the ballast to the side of the head light with double sided sticky pads, then shoved the rest of the gubbins out of sight. Not the neatest, but seeing how many times I've swapped kits in and out, I've never thought of the job as being permanent. Also, it's really quick and easy to swap back to halogens should I need to come MOT time. The hole in the rubber cap can be sealed with insulation tape stuck inside and outside.

 

[Mikem]

I would second the 5000K, really happy with mine. and they colour match the LED mains perfectly.

You don't have to change the entire kit, just get some 5000K / 55w Xenon bulbs, normally, the connectors are all the same.

My bulbs came from internet, but they have metal bases and ceramic inserts, so better quality than the Car Rover items.

The Car Rover ballasts are happy on the T6, so I would just change the bulbs?


My ballasts are hung on little rubbers from the front bulkhead.


Good luck

 

[Mcdubbin]

I would second the 5000K, really happy with mine. and they colour match the LED mains perfectly.

You don't have to change the entire kit, just get some 5000K / 55w Xenon bulbs, normally, the connectors are all the same.

My bulbs came from internet, but they have metal bases and ceramic inserts, so better quality than the Car Rover items.

The Car Rover ballasts are happy on the T6, so I would just change the bulbs?


My ballasts are hung on little rubbers from the front bulkhead.


Good luck

Thanks guys, 5000k bulbs ordered and should be here by the weekend. I don’t have Vcds access so guess will have a bulb warning light to start with but sure I can sort that at some stage..

 

[Mikem]

Thanks guys, 5000k bulbs ordered and should be here by the weekend. I don’t have Vcds access so guess will have a bulb warning light to start with but sure I can sort that at some stage..

The HIDs should not generate a lamp out warning, only LEDs should give you a problem.

 

[nobbyq]

i am lost what bulbs have you got ? any link ? thanks

 

[dubber36]

I've finally managed to send my HID kit back, so anytime soon the correct 35W 4300K with no CanBus issues should arrive. I'm looking forward to testing them out.

In the meantime, a mate has just ordered some retro-fit bi-xenon projectors for his Astra van. If they turn out to be any good, I may be looking at going bi-xenon in the THQ lights, or another mad thought I've just had, quad bi-xenons in the original H7 headlights.

 

[Stay Frosty]

Won't you still have that warm up period to contend with though when you give someone a blast of main beam after they've just cut you up?

Agreed on the many options available to improve even aftermarket lighting, can't help thinking Mikems projector piccies are the benchmark to beat at the moment though.

 

[andys]

I may have got it wrong but I thought the idea behind bi-xenons was that the full beam was permanently on, but covered by a metal mask that flipped out of the way when selected, doing away with the warmup issue?

 

[Stay Frosty]

I thought Dubber was talking about his THQ projectors Andy?

 

[andys]

I thought Dubber was talking about his THQ projectors Andy?

Yes he mentioned bi-xenons, which don't have the problem you mentioned. If they're just xenon bulbs then the full beam in an H7/1 would be hopeless for that reason.

 

[dubber36]

To have them in the THQ lights would mean swapping out the projector for a bi-xenon one, but the inner reflector lamp would still remain, probably with an LED bulb for flashing duties. So with no headlights on, the inner lights would flash, just like they do now. When dipped beam was on, the shutter give an instant main xenon beam as well as the inner lamps.

My thoughts for quad bi-xenons in the factory H7s would actually need to be outer bi-xenons, with inner bi-LEDs, to get around the flashing from cold issues with xenons.