Same here, engine cover & battery cover are on my to do listYet another thing that should have been factory fit. I was quite shocked the first time I looked under the bonnet of my van and saw what a mess it looked.
Same here, engine cover & battery cover are on my to do listYet another thing that should have been factory fit. I was quite shocked the first time I looked under the bonnet of my van and saw what a mess it looked.
Yet another thing that should have been factory fit. I was quite shocked the first time I looked under the bonnet of my van and saw what a mess it looked.
Cheaper here @Peter007
VW Transporter T6/T6.1 - Engine Cover - With Fixings - Genuine
Keep the most important aspect of your T6 or T6.1 safely protected with this VW Transporter engine cover that is held firm with the included fixings.transporterhq.co.uk
Where I got mine from. Arrived super quick too. 5 mins to fit.Cheaper here @Peter007
VW Transporter T6/T6.1 - Engine Cover - With Fixings - Genuine
Keep the most important aspect of your T6 or T6.1 safely protected with this VW Transporter engine cover that is held firm with the included fixings.transporterhq.co.uk
I already have THQ LEDs in the H7 and H1 positions, they're better than my H4 LEDs but not dramatically so, certainly not up to real LED headlight standard. The low beam is perfectly acceptable, which is the most important thing, and the high beams will be bolstered by the Lazers when I get them on so it's fine.I fitted these in my main beams when fitting the Lazers. I tried them before the Lazers went in and was very impressed at the improvements over halogens. I had tried to fit them months before, but gave up as it was a complete arse to do with the headlights in place. I wasn't going to bother, but as I was swapping the grille for the Lazers, it was easy enough to pop the headlights out.
I think most have removed the speaker and done the door skin through the hole.Completed the drivers door sound deadening/proofing today.
Took the inner metal door panel off after I had covered it in Silent coat, well I tried to
What a palava that was, trawled the forum for how to get the bloody thing off.
So out came the drill, and 14 pot rivets later the inner metal door card was released from window channels which then allowed me to get to the door skin.
On went the Dynamat Extreme followed by the soundproofing foam. Job done.
Now bolt the window channels back to the inner door panel and check the window etc. works, thankfully no issues.
Onto the door card and cover the inside of it with soundproofing foam, refit the door, check all the electrics work, great, then... I went to snap the door fasteners in and they don't fecking work, argh, 3 hours on the door to be let down by four pieces of plastic.
Has anyone else had issues refitting the door card when they fitted soundproofing foam and do only the VW fasteners work??
Anyways rant, over now to smother hands in sudocrem as they look like the have been in a fight with a bunch of feral cats
Hey @DXX,I think most have removed the speaker and done the door skin through the hole.
I put the 10mm foam on the back of the plastic door card not the door inner frame, there are a few points that can’t be foamed as they are too close or touching the inner frame.
Nice job though. Any wonder your hands/fingers are shredded to bitsHey @DXX,
I did the door inner metal card in the silent coat door kit and then added the foam to the inside of the door card. All over the door pockets etc. which I am thinking was the wrong thing to do although I have seen images on here of other people doing it.
All I can think is the aftermarket door card plastic clips aren’t up to the task as they don’t even stay clipped in.
I have ordered VW door card plastic clips so hopefully they will solve the problems.
Certainly not looking forward to the passenger door although I learnt a lot this time round and will certainly do it different when I tackle the other door.
View attachment 101745
Which rivets did you drill out? I didn't have to drill anything to remove the assembly carrier..Completed the drivers door sound deadening/proofing today.
Took the inner metal door panel off after I had covered it in Silent coat, well I tried to
What a palava that was, trawled the forum for how to get the bloody thing off.
So out came the drill, and 14 pot rivets later the inner metal door card was released from window channels which then allowed me to get to the door skin.
On went the Dynamat Extreme followed by the soundproofing foam. Job done.
Now bolt the window channels back to the inner door panel and check the window etc. works, thankfully no issues.
Onto the door card and cover the inside of it with soundproofing foam, refit the door, check all the electrics work, great, then... I went to snap the door fasteners in and they don't fecking work, argh, 3 hours on the door to be let down by four pieces of plastic.
Has anyone else had issues refitting the door card when they fitted soundproofing foam and do only the VW fasteners work??
Anyways rant, over now to smother hands in sudocrem as they look like the have been in a fight with a bunch of feral cats
It’s possible to deaden the outer door skin by applying silentcoat or dynamat throught the speaker hole. It doesn’t require a complete cover to kill the noise.Which rivets did you drill out? I didn't have to drill anything to remove the assembly carrier..
[GUIDE] How to remove the carrier assembly from the front door of a T6
This is needed as part of a longer guide to removing and swapping doors, but I know this is a good subject for anyone who needs to sound deaden and insulate their van. A great deal of thanks to those on this thread which kickstarted my work today. First you'll need to remove the door card. You...www.t6forum.com
I'm planning the same job so interested, although hopefully fitting speaker at same time
I drilled out the 14 rivets that hold the window guides to the inner metal door skin. Tbh it didn’t give me that much additional space to get behind the door. If you can do what you need to do through the speaker hole I would say go down that route.Which rivets did you drill out? I didn't have to drill anything to remove the assembly carrier..
[GUIDE] How to remove the carrier assembly from the front door of a T6
This is needed as part of a longer guide to removing and swapping doors, but I know this is a good subject for anyone who needs to sound deaden and insulate their van. A great deal of thanks to those on this thread which kickstarted my work today. First you'll need to remove the door card. You...www.t6forum.com
I'm planning the same job so interested, although hopefully fitting speaker at same time
The taping fingers is a superb idea, will certainly be doing that on the passenger door.OK I misunderstood I thought you had the foam on the inner door frame.
I taped up my finger tips with insulating tape and that saved them, I struggle to work in gloves.
If you foam cover the plastic door card and then press in position without the door clips it will leave an indentation where you need to remove the foam.
The door clips are a PITA, I used some from Travelinlite which were OK, no worse than the VW ones. There’s a video online, probably for speaker replacement which shows the best way to attach the plastic door card. Probably from an Eton speaker supplier.
All those little sound proofing jobs are time` consuming but worthwhile.
I wish I had found this thread before I started on the drivers for. I looked everywhere on here but no joy. Thanks @AndysmeeWhich rivets did you drill out? I didn't have to drill anything to remove the assembly carrier..
[GUIDE] How to remove the carrier assembly from the front door of a T6
This is needed as part of a longer guide to removing and swapping doors, but I know this is a good subject for anyone who needs to sound deaden and insulate their van. A great deal of thanks to those on this thread which kickstarted my work today. First you'll need to remove the door card. You...www.t6forum.com
I'm planning the same job so interested, although hopefully fitting speaker at same time