2016 180PS Bi-TDi CFCA engine failure

[Nam600]

Looks like you may not have the problem yet. That sample will settle it. If anything, you may have normal oil consumption for an engine that's done 136k. Most of my vehicles didn't use anything up until around 50k. My Eos with 72k and T6 with 57k seem to use around 1/2 a litre every 10k which is pretty good. For comparison, I'm getting 38 to 42 on a steady unloaded drive keeping at 70mph. I've just been to Yorkshire for a holiday fully loaded, 1 kid, 3 bikes and a trailer that's circa 400kg and got 36 on the motorway with a lot of traffic and stops. A clear run on the way home came in at 40mpg but keep in mind I was only doing 60ish on the motorway with the trailer.

I'm also starting to wonder if the EGR problem is exacerbated by short runs. Like most diesel issues related to short runs, the EGR won't enjoy cooler short periods of running. I can imagine this promotes the aluminium corrosion leading to the material break out which is then ingested. Would be good to see if any other high-milers have the same experience?

 

[helphelp]

I have a 2016 180 biturbo DSG has covered 66k I have annual service and oil change, the van does not use any oil to speak of and have only topped up once when near it's service.
I have checked the label on the EGR cooler and it is the revised one but from the horror stories here it would seem so far I have been lucky, I am now thinking to get the egr blanked off will this have any issues regarding MOT just had an MOT and the readings were low. I will need to get someone to delete the EGR from the ECU correct?

My van is Euro 5 and was a month out from being a Euro 6 which never bothered me but Mr Khan's expansion of the ULEZ is going to be a factor soon as I am sure other cities will follow. I did hear somewhere that it could be possible to get the van recalibrated through DVLA (is that Bullshit) The Mot tester said the emissions from my van were the same as the allowance on some Euro 6 .

The van is due it's annual service now, should I get the garage to give me some of the old oil to get an analysis, how much do you need?

Thanks

 

[DXX]

Are you asking the same questions as before?
The Tafmet kit is a cheap, easy and reliable solution.
Get yourself a Miller oil analysis kit from Opie Oils. Buy a small syringe and some plastic tubing that will fit down the dipstick tube from Ebay. The instructions are clear, make sure that the data entered on the form for the analysis is accurate otherwise the diagnosis could be skewed. Taking a sample from drained oil is unreliable as it could be contaminated, dealing with micron particles and PPM.
Regarding a Euro 5 becoming a Euro 6, if it were possible it would be well documented by now and it isn’t.

 

[helphelp]

I sent my oil sample off to Millers last week and received the results today, the soot level is high and high silicon and aluminium, the engine runs fine with no high oil consumption just over 1/2 litre in a year 11 k miles,
Probably now at a critical point to take action before any real damage done I hope.
I see little point in replacing the EGR cooler as these are rubbish and the problem will not go away I have the already the revised D version.

Is the Tafmet option the most economical and long term solution or something more drastically expensive please.

 

[DXX]

I sent my oil sample off to Millers last week and received the results today, the soot level is high and high silicon and aluminium, the engine runs fine with no high oil consumption just over 1/2 litre in a year 11 k miles,
Probably now at a critical point to take action before any real damage done I hope.
I see little point in replacing the EGR cooler as these are rubbish and the problem will not go away I have the already the revised D version.

Is the Tafmet option the most economical and long term solution or something more drastically expensive please.

Sounds to me like the EGR valve is jammed open, the EGR cooler is degraded and the aluminium is how many PPM?
I wouldn’t waste anytime getting at least one or two oil / filter changes done in quick succession after fitting the Tafmet kit.

 

[helphelp]

Are you asking the same questions as before?
The Tafmet kit is a cheap, easy and reliable solution.
Get yourself a Miller oil analysis kit from Opie Oils. Buy a small syringe and some plastic tubing that will fit down the dipstick tube from Ebay. The instructions are clear, make sure that the data entered on the form for the analysis is accurate otherwise the diagnosis could be skewed. Taking a sample from drained oil is unreliable as it could be contaminated, dealing with micron particles and PPM.
Regarding a Euro 5 becoming a Euro 6, if it were possible it would be well documented by now and it isn’t.

Have done the oil test and used the syringe to extract the oil as you instructed.

 

[Nam600]

DXX is advising you to change the oil and filter a couple of times and get the Tafmet done. So am I. The Tafmet is easy to install. The blanking plates for the EGR can be a bit fiddly. I think you need to stop using the van and get this done to avoid any damage as it looks like you have the problem.

 

[helphelp]

Sounds to me like the EGR valve is jammed open, the EGR cooler is degraded and the aluminium is how many PPM?
I wouldn’t waste anytime getting at least one or two oil / filter changes done in quick succession after fitting the Tafmet kit.

 

[TonyJH]

DXX is advising you to change the oil and filter a couple of times and get the Tafmet done. So am I. The Tafmet is easy to install. The blanking plates for the EGR can be a bit fiddly. I think you need to stop using the van and get this done to avoid any damage as it looks like you have the problem.

I bought these ones to go with my Tafmet as they are thinner and can also be fitted without having to remove the EGR pipe screws completely.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[stillfirm]

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Hi
Pictures of the corroded fins in the EGR cooler also pictures of the scored bores you can see from the images of the cooling fins that a significant amount of alloy is missing and this has entered the combustion chamber.
Any foreign body in there apart from air and atomized fuel in the right quantity will cause damage to the bores and pistons I found small pieces of melted alloy bonded to the pistons I think remains of the missing cooler fins.

the "D" on the label picture - does that symbolise the REV D EGR people are talking about?

 

[DXX]

Yes

 

[FerrisBFW]

This is all really interesting. Here is my oil analysis from March. This was as I picked the van up. Since then its had a flush, three oil changes, and new dpf and a blocked and mapped out egr. Based on the service history the oil had only done a 6k miles. Miller's guy said

"As you are probably aware, with the VW 2.0 L BiTDI 180 hp CFCA engine as used in your Caravelle, the issue we see regularly is the breakdown of the cooler on the EGR, this gives Aluminium salt particles which are ingested by the engine causing bore damage leading to poor compression and excessive oil consumption; we see this as Aluminium in the oil. Your oil sample is actually not too bad in this respect but does have a fail level of Aluminium present.

Due to the high levels of soot, fuel, Iron and a general aged appearance, I am wondering if the oil is somewhat older than the 5876 miles you state. Rather than panic at the poor condition of the oil and what that means for the health of the engine, I suggest that you monitor the oil going forward now you are able to know for a fact the mileage on the oil. Starting with fresh oil, use the van for 3000 miles or so and have another test. If there are issues, we will see them and you will have the information to take appropriate action."

Tom from Retro Resus siad at the time: "The test shows some good some not so good. Aluminium is low considering the mileage but is an indicator. The most significant factor here is the fuel dilution. This could be due to worn rings allowing blow by or even worn injectors."

I am on holiday in North Wales now doing a few more miles, hopefully I will be close to the 3k miles now on this oil and I have a test kit at home ready. Very interested. Next year if I do a crate engine I would love to open up my cooler and see what it looks like. My 4motion DSG goes like hell, I would love to feel what a new engine feels like.

 

[CarreraRSR]

View attachment 208892

The aluminium at 55ppm is well above the 30ppm that Millers suggest is their 'critical' level. Oil changes and blanking asap highly recommended

 

[CarreraRSR]

This is all really interesting. Here is my oil analysis from March. This was as I picked the van up. Since then its had a flush, three oil changes, and new dpf and a blocked and mapped out egr. Based on the service history the oil had only done a 6k miles. Miller's guy said

"As you are probably aware, with the VW 2.0 L BiTDI 180 hp CFCA engine as used in your Caravelle, the issue we see regularly is the breakdown of the cooler on the EGR, this gives Aluminium salt particles which are ingested by the engine causing bore damage leading to poor compression and excessive oil consumption; we see this as Aluminium in the oil. Your oil sample is actually not too bad in this respect but does have a fail level of Aluminium present.

Due to the high levels of soot, fuel, Iron and a general aged appearance, I am wondering if the oil is somewhat older than the 5876 miles you state. Rather than panic at the poor condition of the oil and what that means for the health of the engine, I suggest that you monitor the oil going forward now you are able to know for a fact the mileage on the oil. Starting with fresh oil, use the van for 3000 miles or so and have another test. If there are issues, we will see them and you will have the information to take appropriate action."

Tom from Retro Resus siad at the time: "The test shows some good some not so good. Aluminium is low considering the mileage but is an indicator. The most significant factor here is the fuel dilution. This could be due to worn rings allowing blow by or even worn injectors."

I am on holiday in North Wales now doing a few more miles, hopefully I will be close to the 3k miles now on this oil and I have a test kit at home ready. Very interested. Next year if I do a crate engine I would love to open up my cooler and see what it looks like. My 4motion DSG goes like hell, I would love to feel what a new engine feels like.

View attachment 208978

As per Millers comment, ' aluminium to be at the limit', 30ppm is where Millers suggest is the upper limit before some critical action is required to avoid further bore damage

 

[helphelp]

I bought these ones to go with my Tafmet as they are thinner and can also be fitted without having to remove the EGR pipe screws completely.

Pardon our interruption...

Do you not need the gaskets as well with these.

 

[DXX]

Do you not need the gaskets as well with these.

Yes, however given the low pressure involved I would expect them to seal with the original gasket if you coat the shim with a smear of anti-seize grease.
If you don’t want to remove the pipe try it and check for leakage. If you do want to remove the pipe fit a new gasket.
Either way don’t delay.

 

[helphelp]

I am a little confused as to this Tafmet kit, do I need just the 2 plates and this emulator. Not concerned about the management light as will get that deleted at some point. and where to buy it please.

 

[Nam600]

I am a little confused as to this Tafmet kit, do I need just the 2 plates and this emulator. Not concerned about the management light as will get that deleted at some point. and where to buy it please.

I bought mine direct from Poland here: EGR valve simulator with blanking plates for VW T5 with 2.0 BiTDI CFCA engine
You don't need to delete the EGR function from the ECU. This emulator behaves exactly like a functional EGR and therefore convinces the ECU that all is well. This Tafmet is an alternative to deleting the EGR in the ECU. And much cheaper. Both the Tafmet and deletion in the ECU methods require the EGR blanking plates. The plates will stop any unwanted EGR flow in the event that the EGR flow valve sticks open.

 

[DXX]

I am a little confused as to this Tafmet kit, do I need just the 2 plates and this emulator. Not concerned about the management light as will get that deleted at some point. and where to buy it please.

It’s a kit therefore everything you need.
There won’t be any engine management light.
You may want to buy a plug to fill the empty socket in the EGR, not essential, see early comment for details.

 

[helphelp]

I bought mine direct from Poland here: EGR valve simulator with blanking plates for VW T5 with 2.0 BiTDI CFCA engine
You don't need to delete the EGR function from the ECU. This emulator behaves exactly like a functional EGR and therefore convinces the ECU that all is well. This Tafmet is an alternative to deleting the EGR in the ECU. And much cheaper. Both the Tafmet and deletion in the ECU methods require the EGR blanking plates. The plates will stop any unwanted EGR flow in the event that the EGR flow valve sticks open.

Thank you, It was suggested here that my EGR may be stuck open I thought the emulator will only function if the EGR valve is closed
Is the T6 Euro 5 the same as T5 I assume it is.