You did mention earlier that the alum’ content was at double the allowed limit (20ppm), that is pretty severe contamination. It may have been advisable to carry out multiple oil changes at very short interval following a test result like that.
The first test showed 72ppm after 4,000 miles, second 42ppm after 2,000 miles, Millers suggested limit for increased wear metals is 30ppm for Alum. No other issues with the oil found other than this such as bearing material etc. Not sure of what ppm would be expected from healthy engine/oil, I sent Millers an email asking and waiting for response. Oil change due this week and will test again after 2,000 miles to determine next actions.You did mention earlier that the alum’ content was at double the allowed limit (20ppm), that is pretty severe contamination. It may have been advisable to carry out multiple oil changes at very short interval following a test result like that.
Thanks for the info. I asked and received this failure criteria sheet from Millers.
Your initial test with the 4000? oil miles isn’t helping with any accurate predictions as accurate running hours or in this case oil milage is important.
Is this a CFCA engine?Here is mine. 2014 Caravelle with 135k on it. Retro Resus said today DPF is completely blocked. So I woill get this done and then I am on 50/50 that the engine is trash. Its still on a n A cooler. Miller said the oil was much older than the last service, and RR said the gearbox wasn't serviced as described.
As far as I can see its worth going the whole way, even an engine etc as it is a great van and one owner from new in great shape, plus anything else I buy will have the same issues.View attachment 192149
Yep CFCAIs this a CFCA engine?
One further matter to consider if you have the engine out is the turbocharger condition. The oil condition as reported is very poor and must have degraded the turbochargers. While it’s added expense an inspection and refurb’ will be cheaper than a subsequent total failure and replacement at a later stage.
Cost wise blanking and tafmet is an easy diy job £100ish. Personally no issues with the mot. I don't believe most non main garages would find or be interested. Possibly vw main dealer might be more strict and look for the tafmet.So the engine in my 2013 T5.1 went kaput a few weeks after I bought it and the independent dealership I got it from footed the bill for an engine replacement which took about 6 weeks. They fitted a refurbished engine so fitted all the old ancilleries including my Suffix A EGR Cooler. I did advise them it was probably the EGR Cooler which killed the first engine so I'm quite skeptikal about the old cooler being fitted to a 'new' engine.
They don't want to budge on my precautions so my question is do I take it to another garage and get a new cooler fitted complete which will probably be around £1000 or do I get it blanked off (which is obviously the cheaper and quicker option)?
The only thing with blanking it off is that I don't know how it will affect MOT testing?
Many thanks
I fitted just 2 blanks inlet and outlet of the egr. Pipes are in place so i guess may be less obvious than removing the pipes.Mine has these too, I fitted the kit from Darkside Developments plus a Tafmet. I put an engine cover on so it's not that obvious.
I'm hoping it's not spotted by an MOT tester, but if it is, I guess I will need to do the same and put the original pipes back on with thin blanking plates.
So long as a different tech does the MOT compared to the service, hopefully one won't mention it to the other
How much are the Tafmet kits installed?I have a 180ps with a Rev D EGR, I don’t have any noticable oil consumption, DPF soot levels are very low and no noticeable reduction in power.
I have been monitoring with oil analysis and I took the decision to install a Tafmet kit. No issues, recommended to anybody with a 180ps.