Any special tools needed to change T32 brakes all round?

DXX said:
People spend a gizzillion quid on wheels, spoilers, seats……and then grind a 10mm tool down to 9mm to work on their brakes!!!!!!!!!
Not worth doing even with a dividing head and a surface grinder.
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All depends if you can find the 9mm you specifically bought for the job but on the day can't find it ;)

DXX said:
It’s nothing to do with upgrading the brakes, more a quick check, especially important with used discs which could be warped. If you get some dirt under the mating surface between disc and hub it will also cause axial runout.
You can definitely get away without a DTI on new discs providing you are careful with cleanliness, removing rust and any burrs. Don’t put grease on the mating faces.
If you spin the wheel after bedding the brakes in and get intermittent dragging it indicates that the disc is not running true.
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I always put a tiny film of anti seize on the disc / hub mating surface given previous experience of having to cut off discs that rusted to the hub.

Same applies to alloy wheel/ disc mating face.
 
Quick question to all, the 9mm allen key to remove the front brake calipers, does it have to be a long reach or will a standard one get into the available gap?

I have to torque the bolt @ 60NM.
 
100mm (4”) long is required from what I’ve read elsewhere. You can always cut down a long series to the length you need but you can’t make it longer.
 
@Texxaco i presume that the disc and pad change went ok as there’s no further updates.
What disc/pad brand did you use for your upgrade, and what do you think of them?
I’m about to do mine and trying to choose a decent updated disc/pad.
 
Bigsidavies said:
@Texxaco i presume that the disc and pad change went ok as there’s no further updates.
What disc/pad brand did you use for your upgrade, and what do you think of them?
I’m about to do mine and trying to choose a decent updated disc/pad.
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Hey @Bigsidavies , you will certainly need a long reach 9mm Allan key which I got from eBay.

Also the brake calliper piston compressor which I got from Amazon, without this you cannot compress the pistons at all.

Aside from these you will also need a torque wrench and new replacement calliper stretch bolts.

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In addition to the above it is a fairly simple task so long as you take your time and clean the hub faces well, I used brake cleaner and a wire brush/Dremel.
 
Discs are from Ambush with the pads being Brembo fast road pads, they work extremely well. No noise and a lot less brake dust.
 
Thanks for the link. Never heard of ambush, I’ll have a look.
I’ve got the wind back kit from when I did the car, just need the long reach Allen key.
I’ll buy the stuff and wait for a warm day.
Cheers.
 
Get a decent knee pad while you wait. The task is a knee killer.
 
I used brembo pads and discs all round but the fronts have already warped without any significant major breaking. Not impressed of course
 
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