Fridges & Cold Beer -- How I Done It --

Morning all,

Just pushed the button on a T series Alpicool 50L Comp fridge/freezer. Only paid £215 as it has a £50 off voucher to be applied if anyones interested.Screenshot (24).png
 
-£50 across the range it seems. What is the difference between a cx50 and the t50? wondering if you went through them all looking at your previous posts
 
-£50 across the range it seems. What is the difference between a cx50 and the t50? wondering if you went through them all looking at your previous posts
Bluetooth app, dual lid etc just more configuration from what i can see mate. Didnt go mad checking through all of them. T50 fitted the bill for me so thats what i plumbed for.
 
this looks interesting . . .


hot swappable batterys for a power pack and fridge.

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3 years ago I bought an Explore More X40 12v/24v fridge. My leisure battery is topped up by solar panels during the day and the fridge ran/runs fine during the day but at night it keeps trying to turn on and turns off again straight away. It repeats this like it isn't getting enough power. It has done this for years and to be able to sleep I unplug it at night. My brother has just tested everything and figured out there is insufficient power for the fridge motor to come on at night. He has explained that a small amount of extra power is needed to start the fridge motor - over and above the 12.5volts provided by the leisure battery. My question is, is this the same on other 12V fridges? Or if, I buy a Dometic, will it solve the problem? Thanks in advance for any info
 
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When the fridge compressor fires up it uses a lot of amps for only a second or 2 - if there's any voltage drops due to a long wiring run and/or undersized wiring, this will cause a drop in voltage when the fridge is trying to pull 50 or 60 amps at startup.

How long and what size is the wiring to your fridge?
 
When the fridge compressor fires up it uses a lot of amps for only a second or 2 - if there's any voltage drops due to a long wiring run and/or undersized wiring, this will cause a drop in voltage when the fridge is trying to pull 50 or 60 amps at startup.

How long and what size is the wiring to your fridge?
That seems to be exactly what is happening. I have been using the cable that came with the fridge - it's about 2 meters. Would shortening the cable fix the problem?
 
That seems to be exactly what is happening. I have been using the cable that came with the fridge - it's about 2 meters. Would shortening the cable fix the problem?
Shortening or upping the cable size. What might also be happening is due to no solar charging the battery, if it's getting low, any voltage drops might be amplified and the drop is then taking it below the low voltage cut off on the fridge.

If you can, check the cable - it should have an awful size written on it. How is it connecter to your battery? Fuse box, direct, 12v cigarette lighter socket?
 
Shortening or upping the cable size. What might also be happening is due to no solar charging the battery, if it's getting low, any voltage drops might be amplified and the drop is then taking it below the low voltage cut off on the fridge.

If you can, check the cable - it should have an awful size written on it. How is it connecter to your battery? Fuse box, direct, 12v cigarette lighter socket?
It is connected via 12v lighter socket connected to leisure battery
 
It is connected via 12v lighter socket connected to leisure battery
So 2 meters from fridge to 12v plug. Then how long from 12v socket to battery? It all adds together. And what cable? If it's a std 12v socket cable it's probably 1.5mm or 2mm which isn't really up to the job for a compressor fridge.
 
So 2 meters from fridge to 12v plug. Then how long from 12v socket to battery? It all adds together. And what cable? If it's a std 12v socket cable it's probably 1.5mm or 2mm which isn't really up to the job for a compressor fridge.
12v socket is by tailgate and leisure battery under front passenger seat. I'll check cable tomorrow - it's the one that came with the fridge. Not sure I can change the cable as the socket to the fridge is not a standard one. Do you think the problem would persist with a new fridge?
 
12v socket is by tailgate and leisure battery under front passenger seat. I'll check cable tomorrow - it's the one that came with the fridge. Not sure I can change the cable as the socket to the fridge is not a standard one. Do you think the problem would persist with a new fridge?
Yeah you'd get the same issue, it's not an issue with the fridge.

The most likely cause of the issue will be the cable run from leisure battery to 12v socket. Passenger seat to boot could be 5 or 6 metres, so 7 or 8 metres with the fridge cable. And I'd almost guarantee it's 1.5mm or similar cable. Is it the factory 12v socket or one that's been added afterwards?

Here's worst case
1000007584.png
That's 6v drop based on 1.5mm cable and a 6m run. So your 12v battery is supplying 6v when the fridge is trying to pull 40a on startup!!
 
Yeah you'd get the same issue, it's not an issue with the fridge.

The most likely cause of the issue will be the cable run from leisure battery to 12v socket. Passenger seat to boot could be 5 or 6 metres, so 7 or 8 metres with the fridge cable. And I'd almost guarantee it's 1.5mm or similar cable. Is it the factory 12v socket or one that's been added afterwards?

Here's worst case
View attachment 239505
That's 6v drop based on 1.5mm cable and a 6m run. So your 12v battery is supplying 6v when the fridge is trying to pull 40a on startup!!
The 12v socket was added by converters where they usually put them. Can I buy a different cable?
 
The 12v socket was added by converters where they usually put them. Can I buy a different cable?
Replacing that cable could be tricky depending how they've run the wiring.

I'd guarantee that it'll only be 1.5mm² or 2mm² cable going too that 12v socket.

The alternative is to install a dedicated feed from the battery for your fridge. You can still use a 12v socket but the cable to it would need to be 6mm² or maybe 10mm² if you've got several meters to the socket.

As a test, try another 12v socket as close to the LB as possible and see if you get the same issue.
 
What he said... You feed cable is causing voltage drop when the fridge locks in.

Run a beefy 12v feed and you will be good. Remember to use the chassis as the NEG.
 
See here...


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6mm cable or above with 20A MAXI fuse.

Screenshot_20240503_055005_Chrome.jpg
 
What he said... You feed cable is causing voltage drop when the fridge locks in.

Run a beefy 12v feed and you will be good. Remember to use the chassis as the
See here...


.

6mm cable or above with 20A MAXI fuse.

View attachment 239506
converters advise they would have used at least 20 amp cable from leisure battery to 12v socket. Attached is photo of cable from fridge to 12v socket. Fridge show voltage dropping to 10.5 when motor tries to kick in. Any suggestion would be very welcome - I would really like to get fridge running during the night. Thank you very much
See here...


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6mm cable or above with 20A MAXI fuse.

IMG_3844.jpeg
 
That s twin 1.3mm2...

Not 6mm.

They might be using the second core for the ground.

So cable is too thin as we thought .

Volt drop over cable the battery voltage dropping over night

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Screenshot_20240503_102806_Chrome.jpg

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