Did you click on the banwy link I posted in the other thread?
Hillside Birchover
- Thread starter Grainfoot
- Start date
The kick up isn't normal.
Not the video link, but the banwy link.
It says they only supply one length for both LWB and SWB and different SCA roofs even. They say you might have to adjust the length with a hacksaw and might have to shorten the bolts they supply too.
It's written on their site on the rails page.
The rails have to sit flat to the roof.
To answer your points Chris:@Captain Quick can I ask two questions…
1- is there an option NOT to have to thread wire to leisure battery if mppt controller is installed as you describe here? (That’s the bit causing me most theoretical conundrums)
2-do your sca rails sit fully flush in sca grooves? I have ordered some from banwy vans and when I have laid them into groove front of both rails sits flush but rear of both rails sit about 3mm proud of top. Uncertain if this is correct ir if I am expected to cut rails etc etc?!
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1) I wasn’t made aware of any such option.
2) The rails that Hillside fitted to the SCA roof on my Birchover are shown in the images above. I’ve assumed these were supplied as a pair of rails from Banwy, but which Hillside presumably cut in half to suit the LWB version (SCA192). The cost of having Hillside fit these was £350. As I didn’t want any subsequent leaks (and potential warranty issues) I felt it was better to have Hillside install them. I was however a bit surprised that each of the rails were cut in half.
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No - you can access via the shelf above. The screws you need to remove are hidden in the carpet lining in the back of this shelf
So if anyone finds interesting.
Very little feedback to email from banwy over week gone/ weekend.
I have had a chance to explore more fully.
The rails are plumb straight.
The sca roof channel/ gutters on both sides are more shallow at rear than at front, hence kick up of rear when seen from the side.
The rails still sit flush, so uncertain once secured if this is a problem beyond aesthetics.
I will have to cut rails to minimise this overt kick up, just waiting to hear back from panel person what minimum length requires.
I will also need to work out how much clearance required at ends of rails to slide fittings into place. These banwy rails do not have centre access point like the campervan parts whole kit (but alas that is ££ and includes cross bars I don’t need).
Very little feedback to email from banwy over week gone/ weekend.
I have had a chance to explore more fully.
The rails are plumb straight.
The sca roof channel/ gutters on both sides are more shallow at rear than at front, hence kick up of rear when seen from the side.
The rails still sit flush, so uncertain once secured if this is a problem beyond aesthetics.
I will have to cut rails to minimise this overt kick up, just waiting to hear back from panel person what minimum length requires.
I will also need to work out how much clearance required at ends of rails to slide fittings into place. These banwy rails do not have centre access point like the campervan parts whole kit (but alas that is ££ and includes cross bars I don’t need).
It looks like there are some differences between the LWB (SCA192) and SWB (SCA194) versions. There’s no ‘kick up’ at the rear of the LWB version. The channel appears to be the same depth from front to rear so the rail doesn’t stick up any more at the back as the front. Also, there isn’t an opening in the rear panel of the roof canvas like it appears there is with the SWB version with the Velcro closure.
I’m planning to put a rigid 200W solar panel on my roof and will use a couple of L shaped aluminium extrusions across the roof bolted to the channels. At the moment I’m unsure how I’ll feed the wire through to the interior, but my preferred option is to plug in a flex (coiled) wire when it’s parked up, and feed the wire through the tailgate side. Inside I want to fit a socket above the wardrobe door to plug it into to connect to the MPPT controller which I’ll fit in the wardrobe.
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Odd that there is no centre access: I thought that was necessary in order to be able to slide the fittings in place.
The solar panel provider seems to think not a problem.
It looks like I’m going to have to shorten lengths anyhow to obviate the obvious kick up.
I am hoping that affords me the space at ends to slide fixings through.
As you say, no cut out in centre of these rails like it looks like in the camper van parts more expensive kit.
I can’t do anything about the trench being more shallow at rear. Bloody annoying tho.
I have had a lengthy convo with Solar guy whom recommends a hole into roof (outside canvas) and then fixing wire along underside of roof into rear Velcro as others seem to have done.
It looks like I’m going to have to shorten lengths anyhow to obviate the obvious kick up.
I am hoping that affords me the space at ends to slide fixings through.
As you say, no cut out in centre of these rails like it looks like in the camper van parts more expensive kit.
I can’t do anything about the trench being more shallow at rear. Bloody annoying tho.
I have had a lengthy convo with Solar guy whom recommends a hole into roof (outside canvas) and then fixing wire along underside of roof into rear Velcro as others seem to have done.
What matters is that the rail is flat and that there is no gap anywhere along the length between it and the roof.
The strength is based upon the clamping force being evenly distributed along the length and between the fixings.
I had assumed the kick up was where it wasn't seated correctly at the end, but looks like it might just be the roof profile.
The strength is based upon the clamping force being evenly distributed along the length and between the fixings.
I had assumed the kick up was where it wasn't seated correctly at the end, but looks like it might just be the roof profile.
found the void near shelf, thanks for that info!!
I have also received 2core cable as directed to.
Can I ask though. Cable is mighty (appears reinforced around the two cables with wire.
Will this work? Do I need a heavy duty wire stripping tool to cut this?
Did I order the wrong wire for piggy back to spade connector?
It looks on first inspection that I will have to drill a hole from rear wardrobe unit up into shelf void, no apparent route through otherwise
I have also received 2core cable as directed to.
Can I ask though. Cable is mighty (appears reinforced around the two cables with wire.
Will this work? Do I need a heavy duty wire stripping tool to cut this?
Did I order the wrong wire for piggy back to spade connector?
It looks on first inspection that I will have to drill a hole from rear wardrobe unit up into shelf void, no apparent route through otherwise
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