I’ll have a proper read if this when get a sec, presume the cloth tape isn’t a fire risk around spade connectors? Daft question maybe
L/Battery - go large or go lithium?
- Thread starter Chris1983
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- dc - dc charger victron vsr
Not ideal but will be ok as long as it’s not getting hot (if it is there’s a bigger problem!). Better to just nip up the curled over sides slightly so it grip better.
Ah, I see a mega fuse goes into your linked distributor box, what size should other fuses be?
No, don’t use those they are terrible. The only one like that I would use would be a Bluesea one.
The Mega in that box doesn’t really work for you as the main LB fuse as it needs to be before the isolator switch. You can leave the mega fuse out and use just the midis. I would be tempted to keep it simple and use a standard busbar (such as that linked by Big Si earlier) and use your existing fuses.
Oh, so a 100amp first and Then a load of midi fuses on this distributor? After as the bus bar?
Okay, so I need to buy a couple of positive bus bars, (one for solar side and one for LB side, and a negative to facilitate the Victron shunt) and a separate 100amp in line fuse. Is that all?
This work for 100?
Sounds about right.
Personally I would buy a known make fuse such as Victron, Bluesea, Littelfuse etc. And midi, as you linked, is good as it’s much smaller than a mega. Likewise with the fuse holder - MTA is a decent make for a midi holder in addition to those mentioned for fuses.
Not really. Get one with M5 or M6 bolts and you can use ring connectors/crimps for pretty much any cable size you have. I’d get a 150A for the front (pos and neg), rear could be 100A.
e.g. Victron 150A busbar.
I’ve started early!
First order of day, changing Ablemail settings. I think someone suggested this could be done without clever laptop interface shenanigans.
I’ve read the info that comes with the trickle charger but it seems to want me to purchase cables etc.
Does anyone have any experience of this?
First order of day, changing Ablemail settings. I think someone suggested this could be done without clever laptop interface shenanigans.
I’ve read the info that comes with the trickle charger but it seems to want me to purchase cables etc.
Does anyone have any experience of this?
Yeah I read that, not sure what it means, do I connect another wire?
Sorry, reread all again, think I’ve got it now
I had to read it about 5 times to get even an idea. I don't own the AM2 so it's not something I've tried. Looks like a wire is placed between SW1 and LB and a then ground wire from 0V to vehicle gorund. Then connect LB to LB input on the unit and see if you get the flashes. I guess 4 flashes would indicate it's on the factory setting.
Then remove wire from SW1 and replace it into SW1 within 40 seconds then watch. When the LEDs hit the sequence for Mode 3 remove the wire from SW1 sharpish and job done.
Then remove wire from SW1 and replace it into SW1 within 40 seconds then watch. When the LEDs hit the sequence for Mode 3 remove the wire from SW1 sharpish and job done.
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